Remove the Freehub

[Deleted member 35268]

Trying to remove the freehub off Miche Excite.

Have a large allen key inside which is the correct size.

Am turning ANTI Clockwise, but it aint moving.

Here's the replacement, I can see it goes on clock wise, so to take off is anti.

Damn thing wont budge.

REF Previous post about saving old wheels

 

[Sharky]

Slightly off topic, but I bought a pair of miche wheels from PX. But havent found a cassette to fit. Where from and what type do you use? Ideally 10 speed shimano.
Thanks keith

 

[Fenrider]

[QUOTE 4983709, member: 45"]put the Allen key in a vice[/QUOTE]

..then rotate the wheel anticlockwise. Much more torque will be applied, so it depends how much the spokes can stand. It's worked for me a few times with touring wheels, which have more spokes in them than the one in the photo.

 

[Deleted member 35268]

..then rotate the wheel anticlockwise. Much more torque will be applied, so it depends how much the spokes can stand. It's worked for me a few times with touring wheels, which have more spokes in them than the one in the photo.

Yes, that worked with the Cole Rollen set, I was most pleased. I will try laters.

 

[Deleted member 35268]

Slightly off topic, but I bought a pair of miche wheels from PX. But havent found a cassette to fit. Where from and what type do you use? Ideally 10 speed shimano.
Thanks keith

Perhaps a photo to check you have a Shimano freehub would help.
Did the cassette you tried not go on at all ? Was it a shimano cassette aswell.
You might have a Campagnolo Freehub ?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Turn harder.

 

[adscrim]

Holding the allen so that it doesn't slip and damage the free hub, give the lever end a whack with a hammer. A bit of percussive shock normally works for me.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I'm just taking another look at that freehub and now that my mind has stopped boggling, I can comment. It is a very, very poor design. What they've managed to do is to support the pedaling torque solely on that small thread that holds the freehub in place. That's re-committing the crime of the freewheel generation. All the other freehubs I've worked with have a way of de-coupling pedaling torque and fixture. Bad bad. Bloody Italians.

 

[Deleted member 35268]

Gonna give it a good whack later.

 

[Deleted member 35268]

This is the cole rollen freehub.

The freehub is shot as it has some lateral play which means the gear jumps from high to low to high.

I have no idea how to take this puppy apart.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

This is the cole rollen freehub.

The freehub is shot as it has some lateral play which means the gear jumps from high to low to high.

I have no idea how to take this puppy apart.


View attachment 376860 View attachment 376861

Easy peazy. There are two, perhaps three reasons why this freehub could have developed play.

1) Wear on the aluminium axle where the bearings seat.
2) Very worn bearings
3) Bad bearing preload adjustent. This is very unlikely since very few hubs have preload adjusters for cartridge bearings.

To remove the freehub, remove the end cap where your allen key is inserted at the moment. You may have to insert another allen key into the other side to lever against.
Once the cap is off, everything slides off towards the right hand side of the axle. The bearings may resist, but they are only press-fit on and some gentle knocking will get them off. There will be at least two bearings inside the freehub. The right-most one will appear to be impossible to remove. It isn't. Just jam a screwdriver past that bearing and lever the sleeve behind it out of position. That sleeve looks like a continuous smooth pipe inside, but it is only held in place by the axle that's now out.
Lever the sleeve to one side and drift the bearing out from the left side of the freehub by inserting a pin punch and catching the inside ridge of the bearing. Tap alternative sides until the bearing pops out. You may have to devise a bit of a jig to get it to come out fully because if the freehub is face down on a flat surface, the bearing cannot come out. The open jaws of a vice is good enough.

Now that the right side bearing is out, peer inside and see what retains the left bearing. It could be nothing or it could be a circlip. Remove and drift that bearing out to the right as well.
Inspect the axle for wear. Replace if necessary otherwise it will still wobble with new bearings.

That freehub is made either by Novatek or DT Swiss, who makes plenty of OEM freehubs. The pawls are standard and the pawl spring which usually rusts away, can be made from 0.5mm piano wire much quickly than you can say "mail order".

The red seal is pretty standard on may Novatek/DT hubs and yours seems just fine.

Fix that wheel, don't discard it.

 

[Deleted member 35268]

Easy peazy. There are two, perhaps three reasons why this freehub could have developed play.

1) Wear on the aluminium axle where the bearings seat.
2) Very worn bearings
3) Bad bearing preload adjustent. This is very unlikely since very few hubs have preload adjusters for cartridge bearings.

To remove the freehub, remove the end cap where your allen key is inserted at the moment. You may have to insert another allen key into the other side to lever against.
Once the cap is off, everything slides off towards the right hand side of the axle. The bearings may resist, but they are only press-fit on and some gentle knocking will get them off. There will be at least two bearings inside the freehub. The right-most one will appear to be impossible to remove. It isn't. Just jam a screwdriver past that bearing and lever the sleeve behind it out of position. That sleeve looks like a continuous smooth pipe inside, but it is only held in place by the axle that's now out.
Lever the sleeve to one side and drift the bearing out from the left side of the freehub by inserting a pin punch and catching the inside ridge of the bearing. Tap alternative sides until the bearing pops out. You may have to devise a bit of a jig to get it to come out fully because if the freehub is face down on a flat surface, the bearing cannot come out. The open jaws of a vice is good enough.

Now that the right side bearing is out, peer inside and see what retains the left bearing. It could be nothing or it could be a circlip. Remove and drift that bearing out to the right as well.
Inspect the axle for wear. Replace if necessary otherwise it will still wobble with new bearings.

That freehub is made either by Novatek or DT Swiss, who makes plenty of OEM freehubs. The pawls are standard and the pawl spring which usually rusts away, can be made from 0.5mm piano wire much quickly than you can say "mail order".

The red seal is pretty standard on may Novatek/DT hubs and yours seems just fine.

Fix that wheel, don't discard it.

Printing. Fixing. Thanks

 

[Deleted member 35268]

The Miche will not turn, had it on a vice with max power. Stubborn as anything.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

What size is that allen key that fits inside?

 

[Deleted member 35268]

What size is that allen key that fits inside?

i'll take a look