rim wear indicatorss
- Thread starter psmiffy
- Start date
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andrew_s
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gloucester
A quick google returned this:-
With the wear-away indicators, it's easy to fail to notice they've gone, and perfectly possible to ignore the warning for too long.
Rigida rims wear through to an internal cavity, so you get a creak right round the middle of the braking surface, and scraping noises where bits of aluminium off the edge of the cavity get embedded in the brake blocks. This gives a pretty definitive "change your rims now" message that it's difficult to avoid.
"Tandem Club" said:
With the wear-away indicators, it's easy to fail to notice they've gone, and perfectly possible to ignore the warning for too long.
Rigida rims wear through to an internal cavity, so you get a creak right round the middle of the braking surface, and scraping noises where bits of aluminium off the edge of the cavity get embedded in the brake blocks. This gives a pretty definitive "change your rims now" message that it's difficult to avoid.
vernon
Harder than Ronnie Pickering
- Location
- Meanwood, Leeds
psmiffy said:
Do you really want to compromise your safety by second guessing when rim failure is imminent?
Davidc
Guru
- Location
- Somerset UK
If the hubs are still god buy a new one and rebuild/ get rebuilt the wheel.
If they aren't buy a new wheel
I think ignoring a safety warning on a critical component is rather silly.
If they aren't buy a new wheel
I think ignoring a safety warning on a critical component is rather silly.
rualexander
Legendary Member
CTC's Chris Juden suggests a couple of tests, one measuring the rim thickness and the other over-inflating your tyre to see if the rim blows, if it doesn't he reckons the rim should last a few hundred more miles.
In the thickness test he suggests 1mm should be regarded as a minimum.
Have a look at this page on CTC site :
http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3827
The pressure test is mentioned near the top of the page, the thickness test about half way down, with a picture of a set of calipers.
In the thickness test he suggests 1mm should be regarded as a minimum.
Have a look at this page on CTC site :
http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=3827
The pressure test is mentioned near the top of the page, the thickness test about half way down, with a picture of a set of calipers.
I had Sun Rynos - I got 15,000 miles out of them before the rims wore out
(The reason why they went so fast was a lot of the miles were London commuting where I typically get 500 miles from a set of brake blocks)
The way I found out they were worn was the brake blocks could not be tightned up enough and when you ran your finger over the rim there was a definite 'step'
(The reason why they went so fast was a lot of the miles were London commuting where I typically get 500 miles from a set of brake blocks)
The way I found out they were worn was the brake blocks could not be tightned up enough and when you ran your finger over the rim there was a definite 'step'
Creamcrackered
Über Member
- Location
- 2,000' above Gloucestershire
On my trip across Europe and Central Asia if I had followed David C's advice I would have had to get new rims in Germany after only 2,000km. As it was we pressed on and the rims are still going strong 8,000km later, surviving some of the worst roads I have ridden. I think there is a big safety margin on Rynos - probably a US liability thing.
stewie griffin
Über Member
- Location
- Quahog
psmiffy said:
A micrometer probably won't give you an accurate measurement of the thinnest part of your rim because it's more than likely worn tapered, the spindle/anvil of a micrometer is too wide.
This is a more appropriate tool-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brand-New-Den..._Equipment_Instruments_ET?hash=item41498f4f51
stewie griffin
Über Member
- Location
- Quahog
psmiffy said:
Not only because of wear (normally concaved), the rim walls are not always uniform as new, usually the inner & outer face of the rim wall is not parrallel, that's why the relitive "fatness" of a micrometer won't measure the thinnest part, ask me how I know.
I do a few spot checks around the rim (both sides) with a caliper style rim gauge (search ebay for: bicycle rim gauge). I check it whenever I change the tyre or tube at home (and I've got the gauge there) or I haven't checked in 2000km or so.
A brand new Mavic Open Pro is about 1.7mm. One of my SON front wheels has done 12000km and it's down to about 1.0mm. I'll start to get nervous and consider replacement when I see it go below 0.8mm. Someone elsewhere had rim failure on an Open Pro (a section of rim cracked and folded inwards) and he rim was measuring about 0.5mm thick.
A brand new Mavic Open Pro is about 1.7mm. One of my SON front wheels has done 12000km and it's down to about 1.0mm. I'll start to get nervous and consider replacement when I see it go below 0.8mm. Someone elsewhere had rim failure on an Open Pro (a section of rim cracked and folded inwards) and he rim was measuring about 0.5mm thick.