road levers on trike ?

[stuee147]

iv been looking around at different bits and bobs and i had a thought the brake/gear leavers that you see on road bikes where there combined very neatly into one part thats a lot more compact and streamlined than the MTB equiverlent.
so why arnt they used on recumbents they would clean up the look of the handlebars and make them look a lot less cluttered. im sure there is something i dont know or some reason there not used but it just seems like a great idea to me.
anyone any info or experiance of them

stuee

 

[arallsopp]

Its a good question...

In my experience, trikes tend to have gearing requirements that can extend beyond the narrow ratio of road cassettes. Whether at the top end, low end, or both, it tends to mean you're running non-conventional derailleurs, and the standard road kit won't necessarily work. For me, its meant running long cage XTR with an 11/34 cassette and a triple up front, which is something I've never managed to get road kit to shift reliably.

As a trike is typically (not exclusively) under seat steered, you've also got to work out if the ergononics hold when what would be the 'drops' are now the 'ups'. To maintain reach and ease of operation, you'll want the pivot at the top (keep the lever the same way up) but for those combinations which are side ported, that'll send the cable routing directly over your hips and you won't be able to get in/out of trike. MTB kit sends the cable along the bars, and doesn't seem to mind being mounted upside down. Twist shifters can be troublesome if you're gripping with your pinky, but it does at least give a neat finish.

Add in the requirement for two front brakes, maybe a parking/drag brake, with the choice up front being drum or disc) and you've almost exhausted the choice of callipers that'll accept the pull of a road lever. So, you need MTB or X brakes anyway.

Interesting to see how it'll develop as Cyclo cross and XC tech makes its way onto fast commuters. I'm generally running bar end TT style shifters on my bikes these days anyway.

 

[raleighnut]

I'd agree MTB gearing and road shifters don't like working together.

 

[PaulM]

I think some of the road derailleurs can now handle 11-32 cassettes but you probably need to go 10 speed to get matching STIs

 

[stuee147]

so it seems to be down to the indexing of lever and cassett can the indexing or spacings be ajusted or is it more work than it is good
i currently run a 7 speed 14/34 on the back and im not sure of the size but a triple on the rear and im finding it a bit big its great for hills but on the flat i top out at olny about 18-20mph so the one im building has a 9 speed 11/32 and a larger triple too

 

[Smokin Joe]

One advantage of bar end shifters is that you can get a good idea of which sprocket you're on by the position of the lever. On a recumbent I would think it's near impossible to take a peek as you can on a road bike.

 

[raleighnut]

I'd run bar-end shifters and a pair of these levers

with the nipple in the screw adjuster and the cabling for both side by side under the bar tape.
I've got a similar set up on a pair of bullhorns one the 653 bike.

 

[arallsopp]

One advantage of bar end shifters is that you can get a good idea of which sprocket you're on by the position of the lever. On a recumbent I would think it's near impossible to take a peek as you can on a road bike.

It all balances out. Trimming the front derailleur is made much easier by having it directly in your field of view. The rear derailleur isn't that hard to get a look at if you follow my tried and tested technique:

Whilst riding peer up and over your own shoulder until you can clearly see the rear tyre.

Brush yourself off and recover the 'bent from the side of the road. Ensure it has not been damaged by the crash.

As part of visual inspection, be sure to note what gear you're in

Get back on.

 

[starhawk]

One advantage of bar end shifters is that you can get a good idea of which sprocket you're on by the position of the lever. On a recumbent I would think it's near impossible to take a peek as you can on a road bike.

Exactly! That was one of the reasons I opted to change from twist-shifters to barend-shifters. I soon realized that the change was a huge upgrade, the barend shifters are so much better in all respects. As arallsopp points out the front derailleur is directly in your wiev so no need to tell the position there, I much prefer the barend-shifters method to the method described by arallsopp to tell the rear derailleur position.

 

[stuee147]

iv been looking at bar end shifters and i must admit i would like them like you all say its a good setup for a recumbent but when iv played about with shifters i found that the barend shifters didnt quite work on my trike due to the angel and position i have my handlebars lol

i have most types of shifter in the workshop (apart from road brake/gear shifters) i think it will be a play about with bars and shifters to try find the ones that work for me

thanks guys