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Boopop

Boopop

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A handful of rough photos taken of the CF Y-frame trailer in recent use. It's an early one with an upgraded hitch.

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I didn't really need my trailer when I bought it but I got it for a good price and it means I don't have to take the convoy box off my Bullitt cargo bike very often.

It's also an excellent option for mixed-mode travel, IE getting on the train. Getting a bike and trailer on the train is much easier than a long-john cargo bike, especially once it's all disassembled.
 
A handful of rough photos taken of the CF Y-frame trailer in recent use. It's an early one with an upgraded hitch.
it that upgraded hitch specific to that brand? If not what did you upgrade? i'm asking because hitch and wheels are almost always the source for issues, i fixed the wheels now by using bmx type wheels (quite a pain to adjust them but it worked)
 
The early CF trailers used a metal universal type joint as the hitch, you pulled a pin out in the middle of the joint to separate.
The modern one uses a red elastomer lollypop, now you pull a pin and lift off a post.
Used both types.

I took the wooden base off my large CF trailer and just bolted a 100Ltr Aluminium box directly to the frame.
The frame with the box is just lighter then the frame plus wooden base, so less to pull while shopping or on tour.
I've also stuck a 20W solar panel on the box lid, so I could easily charge devices/batteries while on tour.
Sorry no photo's of it.
 
What Tigerbiten said. I had issues with the originally supplied old style hitch. They would constantly bend up and deform so as to make them non-functional. The newer hitch type seems to work better.

I have no idea how much I've used the trailer - a fair bit. I haven't had any problems with the wheels though. They seem as straight and true as the day I bought them - and that's despite getting the trailer caught in a pothole and flipping.

I do have another problem with it now, and that is not being able to take the wheels off. The axle has a push button which must move a slider that allows a captive ball bearing to drop back into the axle, allowing the wheel and axle to be removed from the frame. However, I'm guessing the grease has dried out and that mechanism has seized. Which means I'm in a spot of bother should the wheels need to come off the trailer for any reason.
 
What Tigerbiten said. I had issues with the originally supplied old style hitch. They would constantly bend up and deform so as to make them non-functional. The newer hitch type seems to work better.

I have no idea how much I've used the trailer - a fair bit. I haven't had any problems with the wheels though. They seem as straight and true as the day I bought them - and that's despite getting the trailer caught in a pothole and flipping.

I do have another problem with it now, and that is not being able to take the wheels off. The axle has a push button which must move a slider that allows a captive ball bearing to drop back into the axle, allowing the wheel and axle to be removed from the frame. However, I'm guessing the grease has dried out and that mechanism has seized. Which means I'm in a spot of bother should the wheels need to come off the trailer for any reason.

I've done over 25k miles with mine, mostly loaded with camping gear while on tour.
I found out the hard way twice, the original bearings tended to die after around 5k-6k miles when fully loaded.
Then when changed to better quality, the spokes lasted around another 5k-6k miles.
But even running with only 2/3 of the full number of spokes, the wheels stayed true.

As for the axles.
If they are frozen enough so you can get the nuts off the end, the wheels comes off that way.
If the axle turns when you try to remove the nut, then it's penetrating oil and a hammer to get the axle out of the frame.
Done both methods to remove the wheels when having to replace a bearing.
Now my axles a glued into the frame, as it makes it a lot more predictable when trying to remove a wheel.
 
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