Specialized Hotrock 24

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It's been five years since I last bought a bike. To be fair, my three current bikes tick all my boxes (road, hybrid, rigid steel MTB), and I've done plenty of happy miles on the Raleigh Max that ended up being my lockdown project. But I've still had that occasional itch for a hardtail MTB - which I finally ended up scratching yesterday.

Went to the tip to dispose of three black bags of junk and a bouquet of threadbare mops and brooms, and spotted this Specialized Hotrock in their sales area. Now most of their junior bikes tend towards your archetypal full-suspension BSO, and their prices for bicycles in general since Covid have kind of rocketed. Usually it's not worth biting - they still haven't quite cottoned on to the fact that the bottom has largely fallen out of the used bike market - but this bike was marked at a fairly reasonable £40.

So I got kind of curious and gave it the once over. Yes, it was very dirty and scuffed, the drivetrain was full of putty-like gunk, the tyres had lost all their air, the front brake didn't work and the shifter for the rear derailleur was jammed. But all the parts and pieces were there, and underneath all the cosmetic issues, it looked like a solid enough bike.

Now I didn't have enough cash on me, so figured I'd sleep on it, but got home, looked up how much these things usually go for, and noticed that the tip has extended opening hours on a Wednesday. So rustled up the readies and went back for what really was something of an impulse buy. And just by being nice to the chap in the sales area (he sold me the Raleigh Max - AND remembered!), I got a fiver knocked off the asking price. So in the end, I paid £35.

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Had a bit of time this afternoon to start the fettling.

1) Tyres were re-seated on the rims, pumped up and appear to be holding air. I don't think this bike has done a stellar mileage, as they're the original OEM tyres and still have some of the little frilly bits from the moulding process. The wheels look in good condition, and there's still plenty of meat left on the braking surfaces.

2) A basic clean was undertaken. That removed a lot of the dust and dirt, and revealed a fair number of paint scuffs. Will be easy enough to fix with a little pot of touch-up paint from the car spares shop in town. Looks to me that the bike may have had some gravel-induced interfaces in its past life, as there are also stones jammed in the pedal cages. I'm betting this was just chucked on a gravel drive as a matter of habit.

3) Troubleshooted the front brake. Brakes are V-brakes, btw. The reason why it wasn't working, was that there was no tension in the cable. It had slipped in the nut (and had also frayed). All the relevant bits were re-seated and the cable nipped up. I now have a working front brake. All the pivot points were lubricated for both the front and rear brakes, and a squirt of GT85 went into the cable outers. I will be replacing the brake cables though. Not only is the front cable frayed, some bright spark has cut the rear cable just where it exits the tensioning nut. Probably to stop it from fouling Junior's clothes. But if that slips out, then there's no rear brakes.

4) Freed, cleaned and greased the seat post. It wasn't stuck, but it was stubborn, and when it came free, was covered in gritty white powder. Set it back in the frame at roughly the same height as the Raleigh (forgot to take tape measure to the garage), but that will still want a bit of adjustment.

5) Removed as much of the oily, gritty muck from both the front and rear derailleurs as I could without breaking out the peg wood and wire brushes. Lubricated all of the pivot points / moving parts. Both twist shifters now work because everything *else* is now free to move, but the drivetrain is still very dirty. That will definitely be getting a better clean and once over. Will also check the chain for wear, and then see where we're at. I suspect there won't be over much wear if the state of the tyres are anything to go by. Neglect looks far closer to the truth. Drivetrain is 3x7 btw, Shimano, but pretty basic. That said, if it works, it'll do.

An hour's fairly basic tinkering has got me to the stage where I'm confident enough to take it out on a test ride. (Note to self, remember the toolkit this time!) Will see what's what after that. I will definitely be wanting new brake cables, some mudguards, new pedals and a saddle that fits my bum, though I can borrow one off one of my other bicycular conveyances temporarily. As for the rest, we'll see what the test ride and further tinker time will reveal.

The plan, as it stands, is to leave the bike relatively stock (bright blue pedals and bottle cage might be fun though). I could potentially move over the components from the Raleigh if I really wanted to. That's not going to happen however, because I like the Raleigh far too much to want to eviscerate it like that. And I'm unlikely to be doing a total ground up build like I did with the Raleigh, mainly because I'm starting from a much better place. This one's going to be more of an oily rag job to turn out a useable and mechanically sound bike. And scratch that itch for a hardtail...

Edited for brain fart regarding brake type. :blush:
 
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ColinJ

Puzzle game procrastinator!
Bargain!

Drivetrain is 3x7 btw, Shimano, but pretty basic. That said, if it works, it'll do.
If not, why not just turn it into a singlespeed? You probably don't have many big hills round your way!
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Bargain!


If not, why not just turn it into a singlespeed? You probably don't have many big hills round your way!

We have Dutch Hills out here in the fens. So a suitable selection of comfortable gears is preferable to a single speed, because it's not much fun plugging into a brisk headwind on an arrow-straight road with a gear that's too big... :blush:
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
So far, the project has met with Madam's approval. :smile:

The test ride was postponed on account of the biblical rain we've had here today. So the time was used up for tinkering instead. The drivetrain got a good old deep clean. Thick cord between the cogs of the cassette works wonders, and liberated a lot of dirt. I can now see that the teeth are barely worn. Have given it a good spray of GT85 and will let it work on the more stubborn bits of muck. Did the same for the chainrings. The big ring has the most wear, but it's nowhere near being worn. The other two seem barely touched.

I also now have all the gears, both front and back.

The issue with the front shifter was that there was too much tension in the cable, and so the derailleur couldn't movie enough in order to lift the chain onto the big ring. A quick and easy fix, and now all three front gears now work fine. I may still release the cable tension just a fraction, but a test ride first, methinks. I do still have an issue with the chain fouling the front derailleur cage, so will need to adjust that with the appropriate limit screw.

Removing all the ingrained dirt from the rear derailleur was enough to give me all seven gears on the back. Shifts are smooth going from the big cog down to the little one, but not so great going the other way. Some troubleshooting required here. And indexing.

The two fixes so far have been ridiculously simple. I will have to add gear cables to the shopping list (assuming these shifters *are* actually serviceable) because the cable for the RD has been cut close to the tensioning nut, (not quite as bad as the rear brake though), and it's also horribly frayed due to a lack of an end cap.

And that, folks, is where I'm at.
 
do you wear gloves when working on bikes? I started wearing thick mechanics nitrile gloves for almost everything manual work related, but they are not cheap. the cheap ones are almost useless
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
do you wear gloves when working on bikes? I started wearing thick mechanics nitrile gloves for almost everything manual work related, but they are not cheap. the cheap ones are almost useless

For cleaning, yes. I use the latex ones. For tinkering, no, because I prefer to have the dexterity.

Mind, a good hand cleaner can be made from a squirt of washing up liquid (dish soap) and a heaped teaspoon of sugar.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
So far, the project has met with Madam's approval. :smile:

The test ride was postponed on account of the biblical rain we've had here today. So the time was used up for tinkering instead. The drivetrain got a good old deep clean. Thick cord between the cogs of the cassette works wonders, and liberated a lot of dirt. I can now see that the teeth are barely worn. Have given it a good spray of GT85 and will let it work on the more stubborn bits of muck. Did the same for the chainrings. The big ring has the most wear, but it's nowhere near being worn. The other two seem barely touched.

I also now have all the gears, both front and back.

The issue with the front shifter was that there was too much tension in the cable, and so the derailleur couldn't movie enough in order to lift the chain onto the big ring. A quick and easy fix, and now all three front gears now work fine. I may still release the cable tension just a fraction, but a test ride first, methinks. I do still have an issue with the chain fouling the front derailleur cage, so will need to adjust that with the appropriate limit screw.

Removing all the ingrained dirt from the rear derailleur was enough to give me all seven gears on the back. Shifts are smooth going from the big cog down to the little one, but not so great going the other way. Some troubleshooting required here. And indexing.

The two fixes so far have been ridiculously simple. I will have to add gear cables to the shopping list (assuming these shifters *are* actually serviceable) because the cable for the RD has been cut close to the tensioning nut, (not quite as bad as the rear brake though), and it's also horribly frayed due to a lack of an end cap.

And that, folks, is where I'm at.

For cable 'tension' on a triple it is right when the middle sprocket is selected and the chain is central on that with the shifter cage clearing both sides of the chain. The small and big cogs are indexed by the stops but the only indexing for the middle cog is cable tension.
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
For cable 'tension' on a triple it is right when the middle sprocket is selected and the chain is central on that with the shifter cage clearing both sides of the chain. The small and big cogs are indexed by the stops but the only indexing for the middle cog is cable tension.

Thanks, that's a useful tip to know. :smile: Every day is a school day.
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Well, I did manage to go for a test ride this morning.

After swapping the OEM saddle for the Charge Ladle that was on my Rouen road bike, that is. That took a while as the saddle clamp was somewhat stubborn thanks to some corrosion. So all the parts, plus the bolt, were thoroughly cleaned and greased prior to refitting. I also removed the rather flimsy bottle cage. Those bolts were also stubborn. And rusty. They got the same treatment as the saddle clamp.

First impressions is that it's a rather nice bicycle. Was a bit wobbly setting off, as I've never ridden a bike with a suspension fork before, but once I got going, the fork and the nice wide tyres (I think they're 2.25 inches) made for a comfortable and smooth ride where the road surface wasn't so good (gravel, pot holes, cracked tarmac). I think I've got a keeper here. :biggrin:

In terms of the gears, the front shifter changes very nicely across all three rings. No obvious problems, but I will take @raleighnut's advice on making sure things are where they should be.

Rear shifting... The changes aren't bad, but something's not quite right, as the chain got thrown into the spokes. I set the shifter correctly for the big sprocket and popped the chain back on. Will give things another try to see if that solves the issue. If not, then some more tinkering will be required.

I did look up last night to see if the revoshifts are serviceable in terms of fitting new cables. They are. Well, sort of. The general recommendation seems to be not to bother and simply fit a whole new new unit. If that's the case, I will more than likely end up switching to trigger shifters at some point. Now that I know I'm keeping the bike, it's a swap worth considering.
 
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Reynard

Reynard

Guru
Swapping the revoshifts for trigger shifters would be a big improvement and well worth doing

I did that exact swap on my Raleigh Max. But those shifters were fubared, so I needed new ones anyway. I much prefer trigger shifters to revos, but I'm trying to keep the outlay to an absolute minimum this time, since my spendables pot took a big hit thanks to Madam Lexi's vet fees. So if it works, it stays.

Well, for the present, at least.

Thankfully, the bike is mechanically sound underneath the dirt. That said, I'm bound to run across a set of reasonably-priced EF-29 pods on the 'bay at some point.
 
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