Sturmey archer AW3

[Dr pepper]

I have a vintage dawes with an AW 3.
The 4 planet wheels have broken teeth.
I managed to snag a 3 speed hub 40 hole of a certain online auction, would I be better putting the whole new hub in place or just pinch the required spare bits from the 'good' one and fit them to my broken one, building a wheel isnt much of a problem.
Which leads to my next question, to unscrew the ball carrier do I need to temporarily build a wheel for the hub or is there a cheat.

 

[raleighnut]

AFAIK you can swap the entire internals in one piece without stripping it apart, I don't think you even need to take the sprocket off.

 

[Chris S]

That would depend on what sort of condition the replacement hub is in. You've obviously dismantled the original so you might as well do the same with the replacement and put the best bits together.

You can undo the ball-ring by placing it on a bench and hitting it with a hammer and punch. Remember to remove the non-drive side cone first!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc&t=117s

 

[tyred]

Unless there is something wrong with the replacement hub, I'd just swap the internals in one piece.

A 1940s hub should have a threaded driver so removing or changing sprockets is not so easy as the later circlip type, but you can remove the internals without taking it off.

 

[Mike Ayling]

Unless there is something wrong with the replacement hub, I'd just swap the internals in one piece.

A 1940s hub should have a threaded driver so removing or changing sprockets is not so easy as the later circlip type, but you can remove the internals without taking it off.

The threaded drivers were popular among my peers growing up in Sarf Efrica in the nineteen fifities because you could run a 14T sprocket for an extra highgear whereas the splined sprockets only went down to 16T

 

[FrankCrank]

Also, keeping the original shell on the bike means the date stamp on it is still relevant, but depends how picky you are really.

 

[raleighnut]

Unless there is something wrong with the replacement hub, I'd just swap the internals in one piece.

A 1940s hub should have a threaded driver so removing or changing sprockets is not so easy as the later circlip type, but you can remove the internals without taking it off.

Thought so, I don't have access to youtube without creating an account and signing in every time and they (google) collect more than enough of my personal data as it is, more so since A I

 

[Dr pepper]

Having done it a couple of times I knocked up this tool to unscrew the ballcup.
I see changing the whole lot would mean original gearwheels running on original splines, I took a gamble on a replacement hub so we'll see if thats a good one or not.
I think the original is a '61 the date stamp is kinda hard to read, its the snap ring kind.
I'm not overly picky on having the original shell or dated shell, it just needs to work.

 

[Chris S]

Unless there is something wrong with the replacement hub, I'd just swap the internals in one piece.

A 1940s hub should have a threaded driver so removing or changing sprockets is not so easy as the later circlip type, but you can remove the internals without taking it off.

FYI: The replacement hub has 40 holes, it's not a 1940s hub

 

[Dr pepper]

My original has 40 spokes and its the circlip type, the replacement / done is a '73 and is also circlip / 40h.