The perfect commuting weapon?

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gouldina said:
Some people think that they're the perfect commuter/do everything and others seem to think they are a ridiculous combination of parts and an abomination. Having used one for a daily commute for a month though I'm firmly in the former camp.

+1 for the former. bought a giant cyclocross in september and love it for both the speed and grip during commuting. would never go back to a MTB now.
 

gouldina

New Member
Location
London
John the Monkey said:
Canti's take more set up and faff than other sorts of brakes, because you have so much control over the level of mechanical advantage the lever applies to the brake.

If you're changing pads, Kool Stop are a good bet (either Salmon or Dual compound up front) and do read up a bit about cantilever brake set up, you could be surprised.

Thanks John. I'm actually awaiting my order of salmon Kool Stops. I might be back here for some advice because I keep reading about "toeing in" the pads but on my Avid Shorty 4s, I can't see any obvious way of adjusting this ;)
 

Davidc

Guru
Location
Somerset UK
Looks a good bike FF.

Several reasons I wouldn't want one, but its well kitted out, and the review I just read would make me go and try one if I was in the market for a commuter for 15+ miles a day. The prices look better than many for a bike with that spec too.
 

John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
gouldina said:
Thanks John. I'm actually awaiting my order of salmon Kool Stops. I might be back here for some advice because I keep reading about "toeing in" the pads but on my Avid Shorty 4s, I can't see any obvious way of adjusting this :sad:

Slightly easier (I think) if you think of is as "heeling" in - it's the part of the pad nearest the frame that needs to angle in, and only slightly. A piece of card between rim & pad is what I use. (Put the card on the rim so the front of the brake holds it between pad & rim - slacken off the post holding the pad, let the pad take the toe in angle, tighten up again). Threaded posts make this really easy - don't know off hand what sort would be on your brakes.

Sheldon has a post on adjusting cantis;
http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html

See also this from bicycle quarterly;
http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/cantisetup.html
 

gouldina

New Member
Location
London
John the Monkey said:
Slightly easier (I think) if you think of is as "heeling" in - it's the part of the pad nearest the frame that needs to angle in, and only slightly. A piece of card between rim & pad is what I use. (Put the card on the rim so the front of the brake holds it between pad & rim - slacken off the post holding the pad, let the pad take the toe in angle, tighten up again). Threaded posts make this really easy - don't know off hand what sort would be on your brakes.

Sheldon has a post on adjusting cantis;
http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html

See also this from bicycle quarterly;
http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/cantisetup.html

Thanks John. They are the V-brake style posts. I just can't see where you can adjust this angle. That said, I haven't tried yet so it may become obvious when I do.
 
Our chief commuting weapons are surprise, fear, ruthless pedalling and an almost fanatical devotion to the bicycle. and nice hiviz uniforms.
 
OP
OP
Fab Foodie

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Location
Kirton, Devon.
trustysteed said:
Our chief commuting weapons are surprise, fear, ruthless pedalling and an almost fanatical devotion to the bicycle. and nice hiviz uniforms.

;):biggrin:

You forgot Lycra, Commando style..... that's a surprise for many!
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
gouldina said:
Thanks John. They are the V-brake style posts. I just can't see where you can adjust this angle. That said, I haven't tried yet so it may become obvious when I do.

It's the post that holds the brake pad not the one that holds the brake itself. A lot of them take the v-brake style cartridges and there are normally 4 washers in two pairs. These are shaped, convex/concave, to allow the pad angle to be altered. You do need something to hold the pad, the cardboard idea is excellent. For example if you want the pad toed in then you put some cardboard at the back of the pad only and tighten up. This will allow you to tighten so that the pad is not parallell to the rim.
 

gouldina

New Member
Location
London
MacB said:
It's the post that holds the brake pad not the one that holds the brake itself. A lot of them take the v-brake style cartridges and there are normally 4 washers in two pairs. These are shaped, convex/concave, to allow the pad angle to be altered. You do need something to hold the pad, the cardboard idea is excellent. For example if you want the pad toed in then you put some cardboard at the back of the pad only and tighten up. This will allow you to tighten so that the pad is not parallell to the rim.

Aha. I was wondering if it was something like that. That's great Mac. Thanks for the info.
 

Coco

Well-Known Member
Location
Glasgow
Keith Oates said:
I've never looked at their range before FB, so thanks for the intro. For me the Croix De Fer looks like being a good commuter machine especially with the advantage of being able to fit mudguards!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The Croix was on my last for replacing my commuter. Looks a nice bike.

In the end I decided that it was time for n+1 and got a Bianchi for the weekends, and will keep my Ridgeback hybrid until it dies.
 

gouldina

New Member
Location
London
Just wanted to say thanks to John and MacB for the advice. The story has a happy ending as I've fitted Kool-stop pads and the brakes are transformed. No more juddering and stops on a penny. Hooray!
 
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