Tour of Northern Spain 2023

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AlanW

Guru
Location
Not to sure?
Ride from Medstead to the ferry terminal, Portsmouth
32 miles – 1553’ climbing

The day started with a drive down to Portsmouth with my two fellow riders. It was a good journey, no problems with traffic arriving on time at the meeting place. We had a short time to say hello and meet the others in the group and have a few sandwiches before setting off to Portsmouth. The ride was pleasant it was very warm and dry on an undulating route. We had an early supper at a pub outside Portsmouth on the hillside overlooking the estuary and Isle of Wight. Unfortunately the pub was out of a lot of food but a burger and chips sufficed. From there it was 20 mins to the port via cycle ways and paths. We had to wait for a while to get on ferry but no problems at all getting the bike on and tied up. Two of us are in a 4 berth cabin; it would have been very tight to have 4 people in there for two nights! So just looking forward (not) to spending the next 36 hrs on the ferry before we get to Bilbao.

Day 1 - Port of Bilbao to Areatza
30.12 miles – 1867’ climbing

We (a group of 14) arrived at 08:00 on the ferry into the Port of Bilbao. It took a while to get off and out of the port area, but it was all very easy. After a 6 km cycle into the nearby town we had breakfast. A delicious potato and cheese tortilla and coffee which was very welcomed. Following that we then made a rather tortuous route through Bilbao partly on the road and part on cycle paths. There were many traffic lights holding us up several times and splitting the group as well as folk walking close to the lanes; eyes out required 👀 We passed the Guggenheim museum and followed the river path out of Bilbao. The roads were generally quiet with a steep climb before a leisurely lunch (coke with ham and egg sarnie). By this time it was a warm 32deg C. Following lunch we had a steady climb before a descent into the town where we are staying. We are in the hills here with lovely surroundings. Overall an interesting and steady day of cycling. It’s a different approach when carrying bags as it a lot slower and harder on the inclines; obvious really! After a few beers (for hydration purposes of course) we had supper in the hotel.

Day 2 - Areatza to Beasain
45.84 miles – 4177’ climbing

A good breakfast was followed by leaving the hotel at 09:30. After a ride through the town to get onto the main road we had to go up a slippery rough track the a short section of main road before the start of a truly brutal climb. A short descent followed the another long fairly steep climb after which it levelled off and we stopped in a town for coffee.
The local folk are all very pleasant and accommodating, the drivers also very good in being careful at passing when we are in a group together. The architecture is very similar to alpine buildings and it is very hilly as you see from the ride profile. The route used a lot of cycleways adjacent to the road or was away from the road following streams, so appeared to be disused railway cuttings, all very safe. Another climb followed and again it was a challenge. A great descent before lunch (scrambled egg with mushroom and prawns) in a town cafe. I could have eaten much more than was provided but a reasonable price. The final climb of the day was another brute. In the afternoon the temperature was 38 deg C, it didn’t feel like it as there was a breeze, but when we stopped you instantly become soaked. An ice cream and coke 12km from the end was very welcomed.
I think it’s been the hardest day’s riding I’ve done in a long while, it would have been tough without bags never mind with them and the heat made it harder, but a rewarding day.

Day 3 - Beasain to Estella
42.94 miles – 4186’ climbing

We left the modern town of Beasain at 09:00 to try to beat the heat. After about 6km we had a 20 km climb which varied between a pleasant 3-4 % gradient to about 10% in small sections. The first planned coffee stop at the top of the first climb was closed so another 10 km further on to the next town. We stopped in the square and had coffee and cake which was good as it was getting quite warm. The next climb came shortly afterwards extending 10km to the highest point of the route and the lunch stop was also closed! There were vultures flying around on the thermals, quite spectacular to watch. The scenery was wonderful, in parts very much like Provence with high sided limestone cliffs forming a gorge. So we cycled on again but a fantastic 10 mile descent to the next town for drinks outside a small bar. The temperature was near to 40deg C, baking hot! At this point we had not had lunch so decided to carry on to the hotel where I had a very welcome pasta carbonara and a beer at about 16:00 hrs. Overall a super day of cycling, long challenging climbs and sweeping descent in fantastic scenery. The folk and traffic again all very considerate and accommodating.

Day 4 - Estella to Pamplona
47.22 miles – 3491’ climbing

A slightly delayed start due to a rider having a puncture and the tyre deflating again, so we left at 09:30 and it was already getting warm. After passing through the town into the ‘sticks’ we partially followed on of the Camino paths adjacent to the road with lots of walkers. There was a steady climb for a few km, passing a dam and reservoir with spectacular scenery all around. Stopping for a cold drink late morning at a cafe bar. At another point a local Spanish couple were shelling walnuts into a bucket. Another 10 km climb followed with more spectacular views across to Pamplona. The twisting and fast descent that followed was superb. The road met the plain and a relatively flat ride in toward Pamplona. We stopped for some lunch, drinks and ice cream all very cheap at 7.50 euros. On the outskirts we used a cycle path which was mixed gravel and tarmac in places very bumpy and uneven crossing the river several times on rickety bridges. After about 19km along the path we reached the hotel on the opposite side of the city. It’s been another baking hot day at around 39 deg C. and has been rather lumpy. The architecture has changed now that we are out of the hills, being more tradition Spanish buildings and I guess it will change again as we make progress. The Vuelta sets off from the town on Sunday and apparently the Bora team are staying in our hotel. We have a rest day tomorrow so will probably take a short ride or walk around the city.

Day 5 – (rest day) Walk into Pamplona
8.62 miles

A rest day today, so a couple of us walked into the city centre. We had a look around the town walls and had a coffee before going into the bullring for a guided tour which was very interesting to see how they managed the bulls before the bull run and bull fights. It’s a very picturesque place with narrow streets in the old part. All very clean no litter and very civilised.

Day 6 - Pamplona to Saint John Pied de Port (France)
43.96 miles - 3539’ climbing

It’s the Vuelta time trial in Pamplona today but we left the town before the start. The Bora team bus and all support vehicles with staff and riders were at the hotel last night although we only saw a few of them and none of the riders. We set off at about 9:00 for the first few km’s on a cycle path and a steady low gradient ,but it later ramped up for a few km and was getting hotter. There were a lot of walkers again as we followed part of the Camino de Santiago walking route, the scallop shell motif marking the way. Before lunch was another climb up to just over 1000m, there were some spectacular views. After which was a fast twisting descent towards a cafe for lunch. Once again lovely food and so tastyy tasty and just what I needed! The architecture has changed again back to an alpine style. After lunch we came across a motorcycle accident where the rider looked as though he had ‘over cooked’ it on a twisting section of downhill. With 10 km to go we crossed into the Pyrenees Department of France and it was a steady ride mostly downhill into the town. The 10 plus mile descent with switch backs and hairpins was great fun, although it would have much better without the panniers!! Tomorrow is a rest day but there are three additional rides planned so not sure yet which one I’ll opt for?

Day 7- ‘Rest Day’ -Pyrenean climb
27.27 miles – 4303’ climbing

A non-travelling ‘rest’ day today, but I woke up with a really bad sore throat. so what better way to nurse it than doing a 16km climb straight from the hotel door. Define the word “rest”? We did a circuit around some local Pyrenean hills. The climb started immediately out of the hotel and was an absolute beast for 5km with gradients of about 20%. It then eased a bit to the top at 10 km to an elevation of over 4000 ft. It was one of the hardest climbs I’ve done over that short distance to the top and didn’t stop until coffee and afterwards until the top. There were many Camino walkers going up the hill on their path, some giving encouragement up the hill. After a brief stop at the top we continued to the long twisting and steep descent. Lots of gravel and damp corners to negotiate making it hard work. It eventually levelled off to leave a 10 km ride on a shallow gradient down into the town. A superb ride, but very challenging but equally also rewarding.

Day 8 - Saint John Pied de Port (France) to Auritz (Spain)
34.70 miles – 2659’ climbing

A night of hell with my sore throat keeping me awake most of the night. Thank goodness today was a short day with only one climb with a gradual ascent. After which was a cracking descent but with quite a drop in temperature. Unfortunately this only served to trigger my cough I'm afraid. I'm really hoping tomorrow will see some improvement in my health as it is really taking its toll on me l’m afraid. Last night there was a big storm with thunder and lightning and heavy rain. It was forecast rain for today but it didn’t materialise! However it was much cooler this morning. After leaving the pretty town of Saint Jean Pied de Port we took an undulating route out to start a climb to the Col d’Ispeguy at over 2000ft. 6 to 7 % incline for most of way made it a comfortable steady ride almost into the clouds with superb view back into France and into Spain as this was the border. A coffee stop at top preceded then a not so fast twisting descent which required a jacket and arm warmers as I was soaked from perspiration on the climb. We had lunch in a small town, hamburger with fried egg and chips, very tasty and filling. A short ride of 20 km to the hotel which is an alpine style hostel in a very small hamlet. We just got in before the rain came down! A good day as it stayed dry and no aches after yesterday’s big climb.

Day 9 - Auritz to Azkoita
43.18 miles – 4427’ climbing

Early night last night and plenty of paracetamol taken, went to bed fully clothed as l was shaking with cold. This morning my sore throat has moved more to my chesty cough, so the plan was to ride nice and steady. Today was another cool morning and there had been another night of heavy rain (and owls hooting!). We set off in the dry but the clouds were low as we started the first big climb of the day to 2000 ft. Coffee was in a small bar by this time we were wet from the rain. We set off again descending taking care on the damp roads. In the valley the temperature had risen by 10degC and was in bright sunshine, but it didn’t last as we started the second big climb to another 2000ft, this was a bit harder as the gradient was steeper on the lower half. Lunch (another burger and chips) was taken almost at the top in a cafe where upon it started to pour down. It was still raining when we set off again but eased off on the next descent. As we approached Azkoita we took part road and bike path to the other side of town to the hotel. Not many photos today due to the poor weather. It was a day for arm warmers and raincoat as it was quite chilly on the descents and being wet.

Day 10 - Azkoita to Lekeito
28.72 miles – 3306’ climbing

Feeling a lot better with just a tight chest, but not to worry, once again the perfect cure wasn't far away. The day started with a gentle climb right from the hotel (again) until we came to road that lead up the main event, it started at around 6% and slowly edged its way to about 12%. Then with about a mile and a bit to go, it ramped up to 20% It would have been hard enough on a lightweight carbon bike, but loaded up with panniers took the pain to a whole new level. Needless to say, l’m not ashamed to say that with a few yards to go l had to climb off and walk. Four more climbs to do after this one but a lot shorter and a whole lot less climbing. The road surface was difficult as there were leaves and debris on a damp road causing the rear wheel to spin in places. It was a truly brutal and sadistic climb right from the hotel door, 5.5 miles long and 2100' of climbing. On the plus side, today was better weather wise it was overcast and warm this morning but brightened up later in the day. We finally reached the coast and then enjoyed a stunning and beautiful ride into the town of Lekeito and the hotel on the sea front.

Day 11 - Lekeito to Bilbao
44.71 miles – 3461’ climbing

Frustratingly, my chesty cough was a little worse this morning making the first 20 miles and the first couple of climbs rather uncomfortable. A tasty evening meal at the hotel last night and similar breakfast this morning. A dry warm start to today’s ride but as usual there was a climb straight out of the hotel. We passed through Guernica, which well known in regard to being bombed during the Spanish civil war and a painting by Picasso. The second climb of the day started immediately out of the town after we had coffee. Lunch was at a roadside cafe opposite an industrial estate. Some country lanes brought a few more short sharp hills and a visit to a mock castle. Eventually we reached the coast and a difficult cycle path that had steps in several place making the passage difficult. Spain’s idea of a cycle path is way different to the UK! As we entered the outskirts of Bilbao there were some good paths to ride arriving at the transporter bridge where we had an ice cream. Once across the bridge there were some more short very steep hills in the centre of the town to get up before finally arriving at the hotel. Quite a challenging day with hills and the coastal path. Tomorrow will just be a short ride to the ferry terminal.

Day 12 – Hotel to the ferry port
4.28 miles – 203’ climbing
Ride from Portsmouth back to the car
27.33 miles – 1864’ climbing.

We got off the ferry quickly before any cars and cycled out of the town on cycle paths and into the countryside. By the time we got to the car it was dark but having a group of us cycle together it relatively easy to see where we going in the dark lanes.

That’s it, as quick as it all started its come to an end!

https://www.strava.com/activities/9878730361

Total Stats

Distance - 407.22 miles or 655.003kms.
Ascended - 36,170ft or 110,246 metres.
Actual riding time - 40 hours 10 minutes and 4 seconds.
Average speed - 10.1 mph or 16.25 kph.
Max speed – 41.3 mph or 66.46 kph.
Calories used – 14,948
Average heart rate – 108bpm
Max heart rate – 178bpm
Average temperature – 27º C
 
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AlanW

AlanW

Guru
Location
Not to sure?
A few shots as a teaser....



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Sallar55

Veteran
If you ever go back to Bilbao try going west out of the port.
An old mining railway ran down to the little fishing port and ore terminal. Good cycle route up to the hills on south side of Bilbao. Almost free flowing under the motorway and through the suburbs on proper cycle routes up to the old railway cycle way.

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Location
España
@AlanW , that's a really nice write up and some spectacular photos. Thanks for sharing.

I'm curious how you came up with the route?

Did a group of 14 have any issues with the overnight storage of the bikes?

And something I've learned (the hard way) is that a lot of places (bars, cafés etc.) can close for a week or two in August or even early September for holidays. In bigger urban areas it's not too big a deal, but in smaller, more rural places it can mean no food or drink. Tricky in extreme heat.

But Spain really is great for bikes! ^_^
 
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AlanW

AlanW

Guru
Location
Not to sure?
The route was drafted by someone else and I know that it was a year in the planning! The problem was finding a hotel large enough to accommodate 14 cyclists and also making sure that we had secure parking plus an electric supply as a couple of the group were on e-bikes. This sort of dictated the route really, with a couple of days being less than 30 miles. All the potential cafe stopped were marked in advance on the GPS files but we did encounter a couple that should have been open, but weren't. :thumbsdown:

As you say the cycling infrastructure puts the UK to shame as does the attitude of all the car and HGV drivers, in 14 days of riding we had zero hassle and no stupid unnecessary close passes.
 

Emanresu

Senior Member
As you say the cycling infrastructure puts the UK to shame as does the attitude of all the car and HGV drivers, in 14 days of riding we had zero hassle and no stupid unnecessary close passes.

Second that. It's a great place to cycle and there are long sections where there is no-one but you and the road.

A Guidina06.JPG
 
Location
España
The route was drafted by someone else and I know that it was a year in the planning! The problem was finding a hotel large enough to accommodate 14 cyclists and also making sure that we had secure parking plus an electric supply as a couple of the group were on e-bikes. This sort of dictated the route really, with a couple of days being less than 30 miles. All the potential cafe stopped were marked in advance on the GPS files but we did encounter a couple that should have been open, but weren't. :thumbsdown:

As you say the cycling infrastructure puts the UK to shame as does the attitude of all the car and HGV drivers, in 14 days of riding we had zero hassle and no stupid unnecessary close passes.

Thanks for that. I'm always interested in how people but their tours together. I'm a bit familiar with that part of the world and it struck me as a very well put together route. That's not an easy task for 14 people! ^_^

There are hefty fines for drivers who pass too close in Spain which we can take for granted until we cross into Portugal, hit narrow, twisty mountain roads, sometimes cobbled and pine for the Spanish ^_^

I got caught out myself further south this year when fountains were dry and lots of little villages had no open café or shop. A planned very rural route soon got kicked to the kerb in temperatures well into the 40's and two sets of mountains in my way. In those circumstances, shadowing a Camino route is no bad idea for access to services.
 
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