Touring bike - drops or flat bars?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Joni

Über Member
Location
Appleby
I have permission to sell my mum's dawes galaxy. It is a nice english made 531 tubing one which has hardly been used. ATM it's fitted with flat bars but we still have the original drop bars and downtube shifters.

Question is do you think its likely to sell better if I put the original bars and shifters on or should I leave the flat bars and Suntour bar shifters on and sell it along with the original bits?

Thanks

Joni :tongue: :ohmy: :wacko:
 

jags

Guru
you measure from the middle of the bottom bracket to the top of seat tube.
 
OP
OP
Joni

Joni

Über Member
Location
Appleby
Its 21" from BB to top of seat tube. Here's a pic...

oks9jp.jpg
 

peanut

Guest
yeah thats a very nice looking bike in a good colour.
That would be nice to upgrade with some sti shifters .
It would make a great commuter bike or an ideal starter for getting fit .
It looks immaculate and should fetch at least £125 I should have thought .I would advertise it on B R as well

I really think you mum is going to regret selling such a fine bike
 

jay clock

Massive member
Location
Hampshire UK
I would Ebay it with no reserve. Photograph it well and I think you will get more than £125. I sold a much worse one for over £100. I sold my 4 year old Galaxy copy (Saracen) for £300

On the subject of flats vs drops, I now have a Koga Miyata World Travller with flat bars and XT brakes. Beats any my drop barred bikes hands down on braking. Feels so much safer. I am currently touring in France and on long descents it helps massively to be sure of the brakes
 

samid

Veteran
Location
Toronto, Canada
jay clock said:
On the subject of flats vs drops, I now have a Koga Miyata World Travller with flat bars and XT brakes. Beats any my drop barred bikes hands down on braking. Feels so much safer. I am currently touring in France and on long descents it helps massively to be sure of the brakes
I do not understand this. I have a bike with drop bars and dual-pivot Shimano brakes, and can lock the front wheel and have the rear raise from the ground without applying too much force... I'm failing to see how this can be "beat hands down on braking". I also have a beater with center-pull brakes with good modern pads that I can also lock the front wheel on. OTOH, you can easily have poorly adjusted and non-working brakes on a flat bar bike. On yet another hand, on long descents the main problem is brake/rim overheating and again I can't see how this is affected by the flatness of the bars...
 

Cathryn

Legendary Member
samid said:
I do not understand this. I have a bike with drop bars and dual-pivot Shimano brakes, and can lock the front wheel and have the rear raise from the ground without applying too much force... I'm failing to see how this can be "beat hands down on braking". I also have a beater with center-pull brakes with good modern pads that I can also lock the front wheel on. OTOH, you can easily have poorly adjusted and non-working brakes on a flat bar bike. On yet another hand, on long descents the main problem is brake/rim overheating and again I can't see how this is affected by the flatness of the bars...

It may not be logical but I kind of agree...I felt much safer braking on my flat barred hybrid than on the drops. Can't explain why, it was just a feeling I had.
 
Top Bottom