Worldwide Touring - What Bike?

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

davidbuttle

New Member
Hi there,

My girlfriend and I are planning a cycle tour from Central Asia - Pakistan starting in late summer this year. We plan to cycle the Pamir Highway and the Karakorum Highway. We are on quite a tight budget, so would prefer not to fork out for new Rohloff-equipped Thorns, or such-like if possible.

Would a uprated 2nd hand Dawes Galaxy be suitable. Is the frame solid enough to face the punishment of unmetalled roads, heavily loaded (with better wheels and racks), for several months? Any other recommendations, such as a customised MTB?

Any suggestions or advice are much appreciated!

Many Thanks,


David
 

Tim Bennet.

Entirely Average Member
Location
S of Kendal
The best budget tourers for such a trip would be second hand steel mountain bikes. There were quite a few 'quality' ones built (plus loads and loads of tat) and examples to look out for would be things like the Marin Bear Valley, Orange P7, etc. Go for one with V-brakes rather than something that's been updated to disks.

Don't worry about the suspension forks. These can be changed to good quality rigid ones for fifty quid or so (the secondhand suspensions forks might even be sellable.)

Racks can be problematic as the vibration will destroy most types. You can get very expensive steel Germain ones, but one thing that has worked for me is 'beefing up' the welds on regular aluminium ones with little 'lashings' done tightly in thin nylon braided twine. Any scout website will tell you how to do these and a combination of square lashings, sheer lashings and simple whippings will reinforce all of the welds found on a rack. I then soaked the lashings in black paint to help keep them in place and non of the welds on my motorbike racks failed liked this despite a hammering through Africa.

The big advantage of using old mountain bikes is the 26 inch wheel are stronger and there is a good range of tyres available for any terrain.

Any Shimano gears of Deore quality or better will do, but try to get something with 'square taper' (old style) bottom brackets. Avoid ISIS bottom brackets and even later Shimano Octalink, etc.

Get some 'bar ends' and good padded gloves. You can even put a wrap of ordinary handlebar tape over regular mtb bar grips.

If you can get as much commonality between your bike and your girlfriends it will make selecting spares so much more straight forward.

Do all the preparation work on them yourselves. Get to know the machines in intimate detail and learn what tools you need to strip and repair everything. Think of spending some money taking a weekend course in wheel building as this will probably reap a handsome reward.

Learn about the different types of 'Loctite' and use it everywhere appropriate. Become an expert in zip ties, soft galvanised binder wire and duct tape. They will be your friends.
 
OP
OP
D

davidbuttle

New Member
Thanks very much for all the advice Tim. This is most helpful.

Would you recommend looking at any aluminium MTBs at all? Even with a trailer instead of panniers?
 

Tony

New Member
Location
Surrey
David, steel can be easily welded anywhere if it breaks. Aluminium alloy, on the other hand.......
 

jags

Guru
if you can get your hand's on the dawes fairly cheep then take it, get excellent wheels and tyres like sun rhyno wheele and schwalbe marathon tyres, as wide as the bike will allow you wont have any problems .put some marses bar padding or fizik gel for the handlebar's that will take care of the bump's brooks b17 saddle hope you have a great tour look after yourself's take care
 

vernon

Harder than Ronnie Pickering
Location
Meanwood, Leeds
davidbuttle said:
Hi there,

My girlfriend and I are planning a cycle tour from Central Asia - Pakistan starting in late summer this year. We plan to cycle the Pamir Highway and the Karakorum Highway. We are on quite a tight budget, so would prefer not to fork out for new Rohloff-equipped Thorns, or such-like if possible.

Would a uprated 2nd hand Dawes Galaxy be suitable. Is the frame solid enough to face the punishment of unmetalled roads, heavily loaded (with better wheels and racks), for several months? Any other recommendations, such as a customised MTB?

Any suggestions or advice are much appreciated!

Many Thanks,


David

Dawes Galaxies can cope with heavy loads. Mine has to as I am 22 stones and I take a full complement of camping kit. I did have a rear drop out fracture but this was easily brazed up and I continued my LEJOG ride with very little delay. My bike has done around 4,000 miles of cycle camping and around 3,000 miles of Audax riding ove the past three years.
 

Eurostar

Guru
Location
Brixton
Tim Bennet. said:
Any Shimano gears of Deore quality or better will do, but try to get something with 'square taper' (old style) bottom brackets. Avoid ISIS bottom brackets and even later Shimano Octalink, etc.

Tim, what a useful post. I'm in the middle of building a touring-in-remote-places bike. Can you explain why square taper BBs are best?
 

Tim Bennet.

Entirely Average Member
Location
S of Kendal
I'll qualify 'better', by saying we're talking here about durability in the touring context. If you have had problems with bottom brackets snapping after getting 'big air' on your jump bike, then you are probably outside our frame of reference!

However it was these 'snapping' issues that prompted Shimano to look for a new design. By increasing the diameter of the BB axle, they radically increased both it's strength and stiffness. There were also weight advantages when you hollow out the axle as material here contributes very little to these properties. But now they had this bigger diameter hollow axle, they had to find a new way of attaching it to the cranks as the old tapered square spigot didn't scale up well. Hence the 'Octalink' arrangement.

However, as a consequence of enlarging the diameter of the axle, but not enlarging the bottom bracket shell on new bikes (as they did with the head tube when moving to a larger headset size, and would have had loads of advantages in itself), there was now a reduced space for the ball bearing races. Despite trying multiple rows of little ball races and even roller bearings, nothing proved to be anywhere near as durable as the old chunky bearings in the previous generation square taper versions. ISIS (the patent avoiding clone of Octalink) was even worse in this regard, with some high end BBs only lasting one two hour ride before play appeared. Also the construction is such that when worn, the ball bearings can escape and the unit fails completely, rather that carry on, albeit rather roughly. SKS (?) have now introduced a version of the ISIS which is reasonably durable, but is something like £80 a throw.

The solution for Shimano was to redesign the whole thing with the bearings on the outside the ends of the BB shell, where they had the space to return them to the original size.

To disguise what was essentially an engineering cock-up, the marketing guys at Shimano spun the cover story that all these changes were done in pursuit of the 'stiffness' pros demanded for sprinting. However this flew in the face of reality: the dominant sprinters at the time were Boonen and McKewan who seemed more than satisfied with their Campag square tapers!

Despite the new external bottom brackets being produced (in a long winded, round about way) in response to the problems experienced by extreme mtbers, there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with them now for touring either. But then there wasn't (isn't) anything wrong with square taper either! Therefore my advice to anyone looking around at old mountain bikes for touring is to avoid one of the cock ups (Octalink / ISIS).
 
Top Bottom