Chain snapped help.. :(

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Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Thank you for all the comments, much appreciated.

I think the chain looks dirtier than it is as the picture is taken close up. Have cleaned it about 2 weeks ago with degrease and oiled it back. But the off road tracks I used are really dusty.

About learning to deal with these things on the road, what should I carry with me?

Well clean it more often then! ;-)

I quite often take my commuter off road, especially when wet to avoid the spray, and the chain gets grotty on the way home. If it is a wet or grotty day I give the chain a quick mickle (search the "mickle method") and if it gets manky on the way to work i give it I good sloshing over with gt85 at work.

Have you measured the stretch?

With mine being 8speed chains cost a fiver and cassettes about a tenner so i tend to replace chains every 3 months and cassette after the worst of winter.

All that said I have known chains snap in no time. I have also know some grotty horrible never cleaned chains that are stretched to about twice the original length that are still going strong.

I carry a couple of quick links.
 
Location
London
With mine being 8speed chains cost a fiver and cassettes about a tenner so i tend to replace chains every 3 months and cassette after the worst of winter..
I am also a fan of 8 speed (despite shimano's best efforts to consign it to history/give folks the idea that it is just for low end bikes) so am interested in these £5 chains. What are they and where do you get them from? I am always up for saving money but don't want to use poor stuff.
 

MiK1138

Veteran
Location
Glasgow
Well clean it more often then! ;-)

I quite often take my commuter off road, especially when wet to avoid the spray, and the chain gets grotty on the way home. If it is a wet or grotty day I give the chain a quick mickle (search the "mickle method") and if it gets manky on the way to work i give it I good sloshing over with gt85 at work.

Have you measured the stretch?

With mine being 8speed chains cost a fiver and cassettes about a tenner so i tend to replace chains every 3 months and cassette after the worst of winter.

All that said I have known chains snap in no time. I have also know some grotty horrible never cleaned chains that are stretched to about twice the original length that are still going strong.

I carry a couple of quick links.
This is the only place i have heard the term Mickle and just assumed it was an obscure cycling term for cleaning your chain. have now read the Micks Tips on the cyclorama page. every day is a school day, gonna go home and Mickle the chains on both my bikes except the ride a few miles part as i am currently injured and unable to ride
 
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suj999

suj999

Active Member
Location
London / Essex
Thanks for all the help and the abuse I suppose.. :rolleyes:

So.. I have decided to get (could take it with me on rides)
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/topeak-super-chain-breaker-tool/rp-prod2924

a pair of these (surprised Halfords is the cheapest place for KMC 10 speed quick links!!!!!!)
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bik...-10x-shim-sram-kmc-bike-chain-links-card-of-2


When I do eventually change the chain will change with one of these
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/kmc-x10-93-10-speed-chain/rp-prod120676

Have I got everything I need? seen a few youtube clips, and think I have understood how to take the pin out of the broken chain and replace with a quick link..

Anything else I should/ might need?
 
Location
London

mrandmrspoves

Middle aged bald git.
Location
Narfuk
Whilst I understand your rather-be-safe-than-sorry approach and acknowledge that it is the best advice to give to a beginner who's chain you cannot inspect, the reality is slightly different. A chain damaged like that (side-plate bent and popped off the rivet) can only be damaged across one link. Make that half a link if we want to be technically correct. Repairing or replacing that link does not leave you with half-broken links elsewhere unless you keep on doing the same mistake over and over again. The mistake has to be rectified otherwise it will happen with the new chain as well.
Links break like this at a very specific point in the link's travels around the drivetrain. The way a shifter works is to, at the bottom of the cassette where the chain I is slack, bend the chain so that one link is on one sprocket and the immediate link after that is on the next sprocket. As that crossover travels from slack (bottom) to tension (top), it is vulnerable at the 5-to-twelve position where the transition between slack and tension is immediate. At that point there mustn't be tension on the chain and most of us have learnt to instinctively ease off when shifting. But, should you not ease off, only that transitional link gets broken, nothing else. We know this because no other part of the chain is bent at that stage. Further, the quick nature of the failure prevents this for occurring half-way across many links. The reason for this is that the chain either breaks completely or the leading edge of the outer plate separates from the pin, gapes open and then gets caught in the jockey cage at the back as it travels backwards.
There is no opportunity for multiple half-broken links.


That all makes good sense but I would still suspect that there is possibility of cumulative damage caused by numerous poor gear changes, after all not all bad gear changes result in an immediately snapped chain.
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Have I got everything I need? seen a few youtube clips, and think I have understood how to take the pin out of the broken chain and replace with a quick link..

Anything else I should/ might need?
This post/thread is an interesting read: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/breaking-a-chain-nightmare.183717/post-3796626
 
Location
Loch side.
That all makes good sense but I would still suspect that there is possibility of cumulative damage caused by numerous poor gear changes, after all not all bad gear changes result in an immediately snapped chain.

Cumulative damage is virtually impossible unless you really try. You would have to time your poor shifts in such a way that you hit the same link again and again. The place where the chain breaks during a poor shift doesn't pivot as the chain articulates and since the relatively straight chainline during normal hard pedaling would not exacerbate the weakened link, a break from a poor shift usually manifests within a couple of crank revolutions, if not on the very first.

I still think your advice to a newbie presenting a problem that you cannot expect up close is good. I'm picking nits.
 
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suj999

suj999

Active Member
Location
London / Essex
Guys, thank you for all the answers. I think I'm far better informed than before.

I have ordered the Topeak chain breaker tool and 3 x KMC quick links. ( A couple spare and to carry with me in the future rides)
I decided to go for the breaker tool instead of a multi tool as already have a small multi tool but it doesn't have a chain breaker. And the chain breaker is far lighter than the multi tool.

If this chain brakes again will replace it, or will probably replace it when it gets to about a year old. (if I don't manage to snap it before then!)

Thanks for all the help..
 
I have one of these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-hexus-ii-16-function-multi-tool/. Quite compact (compared to alien) and only £4 more than the dedicated chain breaker. It works well.

With the quick links, there are two types. One-use-only or reusable. Theoretically you can break and rejoin a chain with the reusable ones, but you you need a new one each time with the other sort. I can't tell which it is from that link. Caveat - I've got the reusable ones, but not yet reused one. I'm not sure how easy it is to break the chain without special pliers.
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
As @jefmcg above, I carry the hexus 2 with me all the time, it's great, and basically the same chain tool as you've ordered, so you should have no problems. I can't emphasise enough however that you need to practice using it, it's one thing to be able to take your time fixing the current break at home, next time you might be 20 miles from home in the p*ssing rain at the side of the road. Having said that, if you ease off a little when you're changing gears, and plan your gear changes ahead you should minimise the risk of that happening.

FWIW I use the same KMC 10-93 chain, and the last one I replaced at 3000 miles including winter commuting, so they are pretty durable. Get a chain wear measure though next time you're near a bike shop, they're only a couple of quid, and will help you know when to replace the chain normally.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-chain-wear-indicator/rp-prod10219
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
I'm not sure how easy it is to break the chain without special pliers.
In my experience not easy at all. I replaced my chain yesterday and after an long time trying I gave up and just drove a rivet out with a chain tool. It was going in the bin anyway.

I believe there is a nack to it, that I don't have.
 
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suj999

suj999

Active Member
Location
London / Essex
I can't emphasise enough however that you need to practice using it, it's one thing to be able to take your time fixing the current break at home, next time you might be 20 miles from home in the p*ssing rain at the side of the road. Having said that, if you ease off a little when you're changing gears, and plan your gear changes ahead you should minimise the risk of that happening.

Get a chain wear measure though next time you're near a bike shop, they're only a couple of quid, and will help you know when to replace the chain normally.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-chain-wear-indicator/rp-prod10219

Thanks, will get a chain measurer too.. probably should have ordered it today with the other stuff, will do next time.

Thanks for the advice regarding practice, don't have another chain to practice on at the mo. Will take time with this one when putting the quick link. When I replace the chain eventually, will have a go at few links for practice.
 
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