£300 set budget for a new bike - suggestions?

[infinityleague]

Yes you can change the tyres. They just have to be the right size.

For the Dragon ride training a key stat will be elevation gained per km (or mile) ridden. 600m in 80km is pretty flat. The DR has over 3,000 in 215km, which would be a bit of a shock to the system

My personal rule of thumb for metres per 100km:

< 1,000 - flattish
1,500 hilly
2,000 tough
> 2,000 aargh

Others will have different calibration

I would suggest that if you can average over 15mph on a MTB then you have been pulling our plonkers all along in this thread re your fitness level.

Another observation is the seat height, or lack of it, for someone who mentioned that they are 5' 10" earlier in the thread. You're going to trash your knees going any distance like that. Rule of thumb is your leg should be almost straight while sitting on the saddle with heel on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke.

@Dogtrousers @Brandane

This is what Strava showed. I didn’t know that we have to select “Workout” for it show more stats but I did select commute for the first ride.

I have been working on an indoor stationary Watt bike (wish it was Zwift) at the GYM & that’s the reason I go missing for few weeks. Self-coached strength & core training starts next week.

These are from the free version of Strava.

 

[infinityleague]

I would suggest that if you can average over 15mph on a MTB then you have been pulling our plonkers all along in this thread re your fitness level.

Another observation is the seat height, or lack of it, for someone who mentioned that they are 5' 10" earlier in the thread. You're going to trash your knees going any distance like that. Rule of thumb is your leg should be almost straight while sitting on the saddle with heel on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke.

Also, about the seat post - is it an observation from the specs I sent for the bike or in general? The guy at Halfords said it is the right saddle height before handing it over. He even shifted me from a M frame to L frame.

Will go in after 2 weeks for a bike health check as recommended by Halfords so will ask again about the seat height & if anything else as suggested. Thank you.

 

[infinityleague]

Also, I go out riding only with a set goal of ‘X kms’ to be done whilst enjoying the scenery and cycling in general. I don’t concentrate on speed, power output or cadence etcetera. Just finish my KM goal in the set time.

 

[infinityleague]

Not the best location for hill training!

If the Tilbury Gravesend ferry was still running you could escape to Kent for a bit of lumpiness. But it isn't

I have been checking the forum for “hills in Essex” thread and there are a few to practice.

 

[Webbo2]

Also, about the seat post - is it an observation from the specs I sent for the bike or in general? The guy at Halfords said it is the right saddle height before handing it over. He even shifted me from a M frame to L frame.

Will go in after 2 weeks for a bike health check as recommended by Halfords so will ask again about the seat height & if anything else as suggested. Thank you.

If that saddle is the right height then that bike is too big for you. Heels on pedals and peddle backwards without rocking your hips is a starting point for right saddle height.

 

[ianrauk]

I would suggest that if you can average over 15mph

His speeds are KPH not MPH

 

[Dogtrousers]

I have been checking the forum for “hills in Essex” thread and there are a few to practice.

I could only recall one hill in Essex. I remember it because I thought "What's this doing here" when I rode up it. A bit of sleuthing and I found it. Its called North Hill and it goes into to Little Baddow. It was on an Audax I did there.

Edit, I've just found the "hills in Essex" thread you referred to and it features prominently there.

 

[cyberknight]

Not to nasty although i think your progress is great so far i still think you will struggle to do the 157 km with over 2000 metres of climbing on your current bike .

 

[AndyRM]

@infinityleague I would be happy to do that ride no matter what bike it was on so well done.

And I should think it would have been easier on less chunky tyres unless it was off road.

It goes to show it's not all about having an expensive bike.

As always Biggs is spot on here.

There is nowt wrong with that bike, or those tyres really. And you've got yourself a bargain.

If you are looking at changing the tyres and Halfords are your go to, then Panaracer are your friend.

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...racer-pasela-wire-bead-urban-tyre-752926.html

You want the 700x35 option.

 

[ade towell]

I have put slicker tyres on an old hardtail and it made a huge difference on speed and a much quieter ride, those nobbly ones sound like angry wasps on the tarmac. The Big Ben tyres at £14.95 each would be a good cheap upgrade.
Another thing I changed on the hardtail to make it a more comfortable ride was these Geoff bars which are a copy of the much more expensive Jones bar

https://planetx.co.uk/products/on-one-geoff-handlebar

I don't like the very wide mtb bars for long rides on the road, they are only really any good for off road downhill. The Geoff bar allowed a much more comfortable position for my hands and also gave a variety of different more aero hand positions which is ideal for longer rides

Here's Jeff Jones who created these bars explaining the benefits better than I can.


View: https://youtu.be/Ndt8Di_TjJE

 

[wafter]

Great work with some of those ride lengths; however I can't help but think you've bought the least-suitable bike for your intended terrain, which seemingly runs counter to much of the advice you've been given in this thread.

If you'd have gone used your budget would have likely got you something far more suitable for road use, without needing to change tyres and would probably have added 20-30% to your average speed..

 

[cyberknight]

Great work with some of those ride lengths; however I can't help but think you've bought the least-suitable bike for your intended terrain, which seemingly runs counter to much of the advice you've been given in this thread.

If you'd have gone used your budget would have likely got you something far more suitable for road use, without needing to change tyres and would probably have added 20-30% to your average speed..

at last someone agrees with my post ...

 

[CentralCommuter]

This thread is pointless. So much great advice, offers of very solid bikes at good price points, then all ignored and random Halfords MTB plucked out of nowhere. Why ask for advice if you are going to ignore it all?

 

[N0bodyOfTheGoat]

This thread is pointless. So much great advice, offers of very solid bikes at good price points, then all ignored and random Halfords MTB plucked out of nowhere. Why ask for advice if you are going to ignore it all?

Well for one, it's only advice, ultimately it's the OP that can choose whatever they like with their money.

Plus some suggestions, probably including mine, were guilty of budget creep beyond £300.

 

[Brandane]

This thread is pointless. So much great advice, offers of very solid bikes at good price points, then all ignored and random Halfords MTB plucked out of nowhere. Why ask for advice if you are going to ignore it all?

It's part of the deep joys of the internet. This site is riddled with posts from first time contributors seemingly keen for advice on bike buying, mechanical issues, touring advice, what to have for dinner, and a host of other subjects. Many long term members go to some effort to reply, only to find that the poster looking for advice never logs in to the site again. At least in this case the OP has continued to contribute to his thread, even if ultimately he has not taken the advice of the majority. But has stated he might upgrade in the future, so maybe not a complete lost cause! He has at least bought a bike and is using it.