1954 Raleigh Roadster

[Dino75]

Plodding my way through complete restoration in spare time - nearly there!

However, several mysteries to unravel - any help much appreciated:

Nuts from end of rod brake levers which run across handlebars lost during rechroming process - grrr! Attempts to replace them with Whitworth nuts don't seem to work and I'm unwilling to force them in case of stripping threads. Could this be due to Raleigh using their own thread spec or due to an accumulation of chrome in the threads which could be removed by the use of an appropriately-sized die nut? Could anyone please tell me the nut size required and if they have any spares?

New cable for 1940 4-speed SA FG hub seems impossible to source...I have bought a new SA 3-speed cable but fob on end of cable which fits trigger is too large and will need to be filed down - very tricky due to size and shape. Could anyone tell me where to acquire a suitable cable or alternative fix?

Is there a knack of attaching the rod brake springs?! Fiendishly clever obviously!

Many thanks

 

[thegravestoneman]

There is a knack I found as I rebuilt my butchers bike, but damned if I can think of it now, it did involve a lot of cursing though. The threads I believe are always a bit erm naff I think is the word.

 

[Dino75]

Thanks anyway - you've confirmed my suspicions!
Hi Vinnie - any dodgy horsemeat in that basket??

 

[thegravestoneman]

no dodgy horse! meat only the best thoroughbreds go into Vinnies pies, (he says RUFF btw)

 

[Cycleops]

Love to see some pics of the build. Sorry I can't help with your probs.

 

[tyred]

I'm not sure of the thread size but the correct way to adjust rod brakes is to ensure they both hit the rim at the same time. Unlike caliper brakes, this isn't guaranteed and it helps if the wheel is true and round.

All you can really do is to bend the stirrups to suit and if necessary, tighten the guides on the forks and then tap them in our out as required with a wooden mallet and accept you may scrape the paint. Make sure the linkages are straight. It is difficult to get the pads so they sit completely under the rim (the originals were probably narrower than the Fibrax modern day replacement) so perhaps 1/16" of the rubber block will sit out past the rim on each side. The front edge of the pad should contact the rim first and the rotation of the wheel will pull the rear of it against the rim, but only leave a tiny gap at the rear, a bit like toeing in canti brakes.

They should give a good brake in the dry but be near useless in the wet. If there are any flat spots on the rim, expect brake judder as you feather the brakes. Make sure the rim braking surface is smooth.

Also, oil all pivots and a little drop on each guide where the spring slides through it (don't overdo it here in case you get it on the pads/rims) will drastically improve the brakes performance. Use a thicker grade oil like car engine oil, the likes of WD40 is too thin to last any length of time.

You may find this video helpful -

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4qEzxDsPrI

 

[bobg]

I have some dismantled levers with the nuts. I'll run them through my taps and dies and see if I can find the correct one tomorrow.

 

[bobg]

3/16 BSF At least that's what they are on my 1951 Sunbeam which had been taken over by Raleigh prior to 51 so I suspect all Raleigh tooling was used. I tapped out a couple and they seemed fine, if you pm me with your address I'll send them to you. Good luck with the restoration

Bob