20" upto 24"

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classic33

Leg End Member
Overall not much of a size difference, but what about the load difference. Is there any greater lateral load on the larger wheel, on a recumbent?

Would it be as simple as it sounds. Rebuild on existing hubs, retaining the parts in case?
 
sounds like a question @voyager may be able to help with
 
I'm back :becool: . The consensus is .............

A lot of people talk about fitting big wheels on trikes but there are only a handful of people that have done it . The larger wheels will suffer from more stress on a trike / quad than a bike and due to its larger diameter will be more likely to taco , dual section rims would help and more importantly a tightly laced wheel built with thicker spokes and the crosses tied and soldered would reduce the chances of such an incident .

Most people on A-Z have stayed with the 20/26 or 20/20 layout , Sandman was building a pedal/hybrid scaled down quad vintage car with 24" wheels but this project has been suspended I believe . I have run 32h front 20" wheels with no ill effects and I would suggest a minimum of 36h 24 inch wheels would work IF the "vehicle " is not too heavy or used in anger .

Laters

emma
 
On a trike, the higher the CoG then the more unstable it is around fast corners.
An ICE Sprint is more stable than an ICE Adventure.

Also you'll change where the tyre contacts the ground in relation to the line through the steering heads so you may induce more bump steer.
 
Without adjust the "dish of the wheel " to compensate the " point of contact" of the larger wheel will be inside of the original POC. This will increase the chance of bump steer and adjusting the dish will in effect reduce the strength of the wheel , Unless the design of a new beast incorporates the larger wheels with the frame built to incorporate the COG changes , then it really is a case of suck it and see ..

There is no fixed answers for this but maybe going for 22" ( wheel chair rims ) could be a compromise if you can find some expensive 22" marathon tyres ( they are out there as they are used for wheel chairs ) this would only raise the cg by an inch .

laters emma
 
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classic33

classic33

Leg End Member
This is what they'd be going on.
Mine.JPG
 

cosmicbike

Perhaps This One.....
Moderator
Location
Egham
Is there a benefit to the larger diameter wheels? I've often wondered if my Trice Q would be better with a 26" rear wheel.
 
Is there a benefit to the larger diameter wheels?
One:- Larger diameter wheel have a better rolling resistance over rough road surfaces.
Two:- Greater ground clearance for silly off road routes.
Three:- Higher gears from the same chainring-sprocket combo.

classic33:- I don't see why it wouldn't work.
Are you doing it to raise the seat height by a couple of inches or upping your gears by ~25% ??
 
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classic33

classic33

Leg End Member
Exploring the pro's and con's of both.
Smaller wheels are better for hills, larger would be better on the flat.

But having hit patches of poor road surface too much of late, I'm hoping it may smooth those sections out, a bit.

Typical road profile of the area.
downloadfile.jpg
 

arallsopp

Post of The Year 2009 winner
Location
Bromley, Kent
Cheaper to change sprockets than wheels if speed is the clincher. I run a Furai (two wheel bent) on skinny 24"s and it rolls nicely. Its not nearly as plush as the SMGTe with its 20" marathon fattie front wheel, mind. At the end of the day, tyre pressure and width probably has more of a bearing on things than anything else.
 
What tyres are you using ??
Because you don't need to worry about frame clearances I'd be more inclined to go with a balloon type tyre run at mid pressure rather than bigger wheels to help smooth bad roads.
55-406 Big Apple's or Big Ben's come to mind or even a 62-406 Super Moto-X.

As for gears my thinking is on a trike/quad until you get below a 10" first gear, you can always go lower.
 
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classic33

classic33

Leg End Member
20 X 2.10(front) 20 X 2.25(rear) is one set, as fitted above, usually at the mid pressure range. The second set, currently in use, only the rider to carry, is 20 X 1.95, between 80 & 100psi
 
Sounds like you're running balloon tyres, now try dropping the pressure a little.
I started by running my tyres at max pressure of the tyres, +80 psi, but suffered a lot from road buzz.
I tend to now run my tyres in the 60-70 psi range.
That's hard enough to not to slow you down/get pinch flats but they still absorb most of the road buzz.
I feel a big change when they become to hard.
So play around with the tyre pressures on a bit of rough road (+/-5 psi a go) until you find what works/feels best for you.
 
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