A bit of heat will do it...

[gph1973]

As previously admitted. Being a fresh faced newbie to this restoration game. I have so far resisted having any new paint jobs or powder coating done on any of the frames I seem to be squirrelling away. The last one is a Carlton competition whose frame is in a very sorry state.

I've decided I will go for a full restoration and want to get it powder coated, however before I make the decision to remove the old decals, where does one find replacements? Or is it not possible?

Secondly the seat post is well and truly stuck and to be honest, at a couple of bike jumbles I've been at, kind souls have talked to me about 'a bit of heat will do it'. In an attempt to hide my naivety I clearly pretended that that was obviously the approach I was going to take, however, a quick pointer as to what I'm heating up/how hot would be appreciated?!? Is it heat gun till I can fry eggs or a night beside the radiator??

 

[mjr]

There are websites and specialists who make replacement decals. I can't remember the names now but someone will be along soon. Carlton is popular enough that you can probably get something close.

Otherwise, peel them off carefully and put them between sheets of plain white paper with the aim being so you can have them scanned if needed.

With the seatpost, I'd give it a few goes with a product like one I think's called "shock and unlock" (much fiercer than WD40, not as potent as PlusGas) that shifted a corroded stem for me. You may end up needing the hacksaw approach but I think hacksawing is really really tedious, so try everything else reasonable first!

 

[classic33]

If using a hacksaw blade on its own, turn it so that the cutting is done on the pull stroke.
Less chance of the blade snagging and snapping on you.

 

[RichardB]

Heat could work. A torch can crack corrosion on rusted steel as mentioned by @User9609, but that's not what you are after here. What you are looking for is just enough heat to use the differential expansion of the different components to free the parts, but not enough to damage the paint layers or de-braze the lugs. A hot air gun should be enough for that, if it's going to work. Get the seat tube properly hot and then give the post some sharp, heavy taps (protecting the frame with wooden blocks as necessary) and see if you can break them free. Once it's free, stop. Probably won't work, but worth a try before getting further involved. I would then be soaking it with Plus Gas (haven't heard of the 'shock and unlock', must look it up) every day for a week and trying again. It could be a long job, but easier than sawing if you have the time. If all else fails and you have to resort to that, see if you can beg or borrow a padsaw - a hacksaw blade with a proper handle at one end, which will make it easier to saw with and protect your hands. Using the saw on the pull stroke is a really good idea, if you can arrange it. It could take a long time, but it will work. For myself, I would probably set it all up in a corner of the shed/workshop/garage and do 20 minutes a day until it was done. It's a soul-destroying activity

 

[classic33]

One thing that has worked on rusted steel parts, with the rust holding the two together is diet cola.
Used to free a shaft caught in a collar on a mower.

 

[RichardB]

One thing that has worked on rusted steel parts, with the rust holding the two together is diet cola.
Used to free a shaft caught in a collar on a mower.

Turns the iron oxide to ferric phosphate. Good idea - never thought of that.

Same principle as Kurust/Jenolite. I stopped drinking Coke when I found that out.

 

[classic33]

Turns the iron oxide to ferric phosphate. Good idea - never thought of that.

Same principle as Kurust/Jenolite. I stopped drinking Coke when I found that out.

Diet cola, not the ordinary stuff.

 

[RichardB]

Diet cola, not the ordinary stuff.

As far as I know, both contain the magic ingredient (phosphoric acid). But Diet Coke doesn't expand the frame as much.

 

[classic33]

No idea. We were removing a three foot shaft that had rusted into place in a supporting collar that couldn't be reached, nor could the shaft be hit too hard(collar could have been knocked out place.
Two cans of diet cola down the outer tube and left to work its way through.

 

[biggs682]

google johntheseatpostman

 

[steveindenmark]

http://bicycledecals.net/carltondecals.htm

 

[raleighnut]

For decals H Lloyd are the best.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...s.com/&usg=AFQjCNHh153rwVHUlX94aFqO-6WWHVJuhA

 

[sidevalve]

. I stopped drinking Coke when I found that out.

At least your insides wont rust.
As for the seat post I suspect any attempt to use heat will, if hot enough melt the braze on the frame tubes [brazing is a MUCH lower temperature process than welding]. The hack saw blade [or as above pad saw] method is really the only option. Be aware however if it is REALLY stuck you may have to do it twice and cut out a small gap thus allowing the old seat post to be crushed. Second if the frame is a good one it will be very very thin walled - be so careful not to cut into it.
To remove the decals try very hot water on a cloth and gently peel them back Unless they are too old and have already started to crack it should work.
Finally IMHO if you are restoring plastic coating is a no no, it should be painted. It can be done on m/cycle frames where most of it is hidden but on a cycle frame it will always look like what it is - a modern copy - TBH you might as well use hammerite.

 

[Daddybus]

Would it be possible to drill through the post to insert a steel bar of some sort ...then tap it round to break the rusty seal?

 

[gph1973]

Thanks everyone. Your shared knowledge is as always, much appreciated.