I recently spent 9 days on holiday travelling around Japan (by train). I have visited several times, but there continues to be a amazing amount of interesting new cities and regions to explore. A previous visit had taken me to the island of Miyajima, from where I got a mountaintop view of the Inland Sea between Honshu and Shikoku. It was instantly clear that this is an area I needed to explore further.
So, for this visit, I discovered the Shimanami Kaido. A series of bridges island hopping across the sea, with bike lanes and signposted cycle routes. Perfect!
I stayed at a hotel on the waterfront in Onomichi city. An interesting location in itself - an old warehouse converted into a hotel, restaurant, cafe, shop, and a Giant cycle shop. Very cyclist friendly with cycle racks in the lobby (the name "Hotel Cycle" was a clue...)
I rented a bike from the official bike hire scheme next door. Incredible value at only 1000 Yen (~7£) for a day. Limited selection of bikes, though, and you have to show up early to get the "good ones". Proper road bikes were available at the Giant store, but I was happy enough with a cross-style flatbarred bike for a slow-ish day pootle.
The ride starts with a 5 minute ferry ride, as the first bridge is a ways south of town and not bike lane equipped.
Onomichi strait.
On the boat. My cheap rental feeling inadequate in the company...
A tourist brochire claims this is the shortest ferry trip in the world. I reckon the Colintraive-Rhubodach ferry just about beats it. Anyway, I soon arrived on the island of Mukoijima. The first few miles were in some built up dockyards area, but the traffic soon died down to fairly quiet levels. Anyway the locals were clearly used to driving around cyclists, and I had no unpleasant interactions. Soon the first bridge came into view. This one had a bike lane deck underneath the car deck.
Innoshima bridge
Arriving on Innoshima I diverted off course to the "flower road", climbing a steep hill to an observation platform. Needed to walk the last bit to the top - good thing I wasn't on cleats. Nice panoramic view from the top.
The view from Shiratakiyama.
This area is full of active industrial ports, so lots of dockyards and cranes around.
Descending back down I soon arrived at the next bridge, taking me to Ikuchima
This island has one of the larger settlements in the area which served as a nice spot to stop for refreshments. It of course also includes several temples and shrines. I had a look around the biggest ones. Not ancient like the popular tourist spots, but still some impressive architecture. And bike parking right in front!
Kousan-ji temple
Onwards then to bridge number three, crossing to Oumishima. I should remark on the excellent infrastructure. Approches to all bridges were on dedicated bike lanes, laid out on gentle gradients, manageable for all cyclists
Tatara bridge
Continues....
So, for this visit, I discovered the Shimanami Kaido. A series of bridges island hopping across the sea, with bike lanes and signposted cycle routes. Perfect!
I stayed at a hotel on the waterfront in Onomichi city. An interesting location in itself - an old warehouse converted into a hotel, restaurant, cafe, shop, and a Giant cycle shop. Very cyclist friendly with cycle racks in the lobby (the name "Hotel Cycle" was a clue...)
I rented a bike from the official bike hire scheme next door. Incredible value at only 1000 Yen (~7£) for a day. Limited selection of bikes, though, and you have to show up early to get the "good ones". Proper road bikes were available at the Giant store, but I was happy enough with a cross-style flatbarred bike for a slow-ish day pootle.
The ride starts with a 5 minute ferry ride, as the first bridge is a ways south of town and not bike lane equipped.
Onomichi strait.
On the boat. My cheap rental feeling inadequate in the company...
A tourist brochire claims this is the shortest ferry trip in the world. I reckon the Colintraive-Rhubodach ferry just about beats it. Anyway, I soon arrived on the island of Mukoijima. The first few miles were in some built up dockyards area, but the traffic soon died down to fairly quiet levels. Anyway the locals were clearly used to driving around cyclists, and I had no unpleasant interactions. Soon the first bridge came into view. This one had a bike lane deck underneath the car deck.
Innoshima bridge
Arriving on Innoshima I diverted off course to the "flower road", climbing a steep hill to an observation platform. Needed to walk the last bit to the top - good thing I wasn't on cleats. Nice panoramic view from the top.
The view from Shiratakiyama.
This area is full of active industrial ports, so lots of dockyards and cranes around.
Descending back down I soon arrived at the next bridge, taking me to Ikuchima
This island has one of the larger settlements in the area which served as a nice spot to stop for refreshments. It of course also includes several temples and shrines. I had a look around the biggest ones. Not ancient like the popular tourist spots, but still some impressive architecture. And bike parking right in front!
Kousan-ji temple
Onwards then to bridge number three, crossing to Oumishima. I should remark on the excellent infrastructure. Approches to all bridges were on dedicated bike lanes, laid out on gentle gradients, manageable for all cyclists
Continues....