A remarkably elementary question about frame size

[Andy in Germany]

Well huzzah and hurray a frame has turned up at work that I can use. In fact four have turned up: two 26" wheeled bikes from Fahrradmanufaktur, and two 28" wheeled bikes.

And of course, immediately I'm stuck to make a decision, and I've realised I haven't had to measure a frame for myself in a very long time so I'm not sure how, hence title.

I've always ridden 26" wheeled bikes. The last tourer I rebuilt was also 26" wheeled, but to my frank astonishment it is a bit too small, so I'm thinking the 28" wheeled version would be a better option

Given this is a touring bike, how big should the frame be in relation to me? On my preferred option: a Cromo Fahrradmanufaktur bike, I can -just- feel the crossbar when I stand over the frame.

There's also an elderly Schwinn. This is my second choice, mostly because the rear dropouts are angled, there's a couple of cm clearance.

Given that I'm a confident rider, the Fahrradmanufaktur frame is designed for what I'm going to use it for, and that my current bike frame was the "correct" size when I stand over it but feels too small when riding, I'm inclined to go for the Fahrradmanufaktur frame, unless I'm missing something.

 

[sevenfourate]

**Interested and following for the train-of-thoughts on 26" wheel frame sizing Andy.

Looking forward to hopefully seeing a build from you: progress soon

 

[biggs682]

@Andy in Germany sounds like the Fahrrad is the one to go for.

 

[Sharky]

Wheel size shouldn't have any bearing on frame size.
The relative measurements of pedals, saddle and handlebars are all that matters. These should be the same as your current bike, if that is comfortable.

An old rule of thumb for old road frames, was your height in inches, divided be three. However, I have bikes on "medium" and "large" sizes and by adjusting saddle height and stem lengths, achieve the same riding positions.

If border line between sizes, go for the smaller frame size.

Good luck

 

[N0bodyOfTheGoat]

My old 2016 18" Voodoo Wazoo fatbike ended its operational days with a 26*4" Jumbo Jim on the rear and a FatNotFat 29" front wheel, with a 29*2.35" G One Speed fitted it was roughly giving the same geometry as having the front fat wheel in place.

I was annoyed when the rear 29" wheel pawls stopped engaging to give reliable drive, but I was absolutely gutted when the drive side crank sheared through the pedal axle on the way to work in July '20, when bike spares and bikes during early covid became very scarce.

 

[Andy in Germany]

Oh, dear, I just re-read the original post and I wonder how I manage to hold down a job where communication is the core of what I do every day. I'll try and be a bit more specific, to try and be a bit more clear about what is confusing me:

I have three "main" bicycles.

Number 1 is a rebuilt Raleigh M-Trax, originally bought in 1997, still used at least weekly. 26" wheels, very comfortable and in many ways my favourite ride: I even used it for my first Imperial Century.

Number 2 is a rebuilt & resprayed scrap bike, also 26" wheels; bought for short commutes where I didn't want to risk my longtail bike, but so comfortable I sometimes ride a lot further on it just because. The riding position is very similar to the bike above, frame is pretty much the same size.

Which brings me to bike #3:

Another scrap bike rebuilt and resprayed, not as well, I have to admit: it's overdue for another refurb.

On paper this is almost identical to the other two. Crossbar the same height and angle, reach about the same length, in fact I was worried the drop bars would make the reach too long. In fact, it feels too short and too low, but if I raise the saddle it puts more pressure on my hands. I can raise the handlebars, sure, but that doesn't solve the length issue, and when I'm raising saddle and bars it seems a larger frame may be a good idea.

Also, call me fussy, but aesthetics are important to me when looking at a bike, and I dislike the appearance when I raise the bars and saddle too much.

Don't get me wrong, I've probably ridden thousands of Km's on this bike, more than the other two combined: it's my main commuter / touring bike so it's obviously pretty comfortable, and I really like having drops and the main bar shifters, but I notice the slightly "cramped" feel above when I change from one of the other bikes.

The "new" old bike will be a rebuild like this one, with main bar shifters and drop handlebars, and implementing the lessons learned with this one. One of the things I think I learned was that the needs to be a bit bigger overall, hence the thoughts about getting a larger wheel/frame combination.

However, another lesson was to ask questions before committing to anything because there's a lot I don't know...

 

[Andy in Germany]

Forgot I have pictures of the two candidates:

26"

28"

 

[classic33]

I'd go with the 28", there seems to be a bit more room to adjust the saddle height if needs be.

It's also black.

 

[Andy in Germany]

I'd go with the 28", there seems to be a bit more room to adjust the saddle height if needs be.

It's also black.

The black one has 26" wheels, although it is the newer of the two bikes.

Whichever I use it will need a respray.

 

[Jameshow]

Wheel size shouldn't have any bearing on frame size.
The relative measurements of pedals, saddle and handlebars are all that matters. These should be the same as your current bike, if that is comfortable.

An old rule of thumb for old road frames, was your height in inches, divided be three. However, I have bikes on "medium" and "large" sizes and by adjusting saddle height and stem lengths, achieve the same riding positions.

If border line between sizes, go for the smaller frame size.

Good luck

I worked that out for me 5'9 is want a 23" but prefer a 22"

Frames used to be larger compared to rider height.

 

[Jameshow]

Forgot I have pictures of the two candidates:

26"

View attachment 816729

28"

View attachment 816730

Black one!!

 

[Andy in Germany]

Black one!!

Bear in mind it'll be completely stripped down to frame, have lugs added for gear levers, and resprayed. I also don't want another bike that's too small.

That said I really like 26" wheeled bikes.

 

[Elybazza61]

Will you still use those Maguras though

 

[Andy in Germany]

Will you still use those Maguras though

No: I don't really like them, which makes me feel mildly guilty as they're made about 20km away, but also because I'd be converting to drops. The setup would be the same as the 26" wheeled tourer: it works well apart from being a bit too small.

It occurs to me that as the bikes are considered scrap, I'll be able to buy both for 20€. I also have a tame metalworker so I could get lugs brazed on both frames and keep one on reserve if the other doesn't work...

 

[Elybazza61]

No: I don't really like them, which makes me feel mildly guilty as they're made about 20km away, but also because I'd be converting to drops. The setup would be the same as the 26" wheeled tourer: it works well apart from being a bit too small.

View attachment 816774

It occurs to me that as the bikes are considered scrap, I'll be able to buy both for 20€. I also have a tame metalworker so I could get lugs brazed on both frames and keep one on reserve if the other doesn't work...

I hate the bloody things; have a set on the other half's Kona and I keep looking at ebay for xt or xtr but tbh the prices they go for (especially xtr) it may be cheaper to get disc tabs put on the frame and fork.