snailracer
Über Member
Moodyman said:
I re-oil only about once a month despite riding along a bridleway and forest track. Are you running full length mudguards, and is your front mudflap long enough?
Alfine vs Derailleur
- Thread starter Moodyman
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I re-oil only about once a month despite riding along a bridleway and forest track. Are you running full length mudguards, and is your front mudflap long enough?
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Moodyman
Legendary Member
I'm riding a hybrid with mtb origins. Full mudguards won't fit due to disc brakes.
I'm currently running a long crudguard on the downtube and a crud catcher under my rack.
This protects me, but not the drivetrain from the debris that's spat by the front wheel.
I recognise that a full weekly clean might be superfluous, but I like everything to run smooth. I hate the grinding chain feel towards the end of the week.
I'm currently running a long crudguard on the downtube and a crud catcher under my rack.
This protects me, but not the drivetrain from the debris that's spat by the front wheel.
I recognise that a full weekly clean might be superfluous, but I like everything to run smooth. I hate the grinding chain feel towards the end of the week.
Moodyman - I also have a hybrid with disc brakes (Kona Dew Plus) which I believed (as did the staff at Evans) couldn't fit full mudguards, however a chap at the LBS claims he'll be able to fit some with some extra bits of kit he uses - meant to get this done at the weekend but was ill. Worth looking into perhaps.
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Moodyman
Legendary Member
Cheers Jez.
It was Evans who told me the same thing.
I've seen a few bikes in our work bike area that have full mudguards with disks, albeit the mudguard stay is often bent around the disk brake caliper or is fitted in a way that it bypasses it.
Evans must have wanted to avoid any warranty issues by working around the calipers.
It was Evans who told me the same thing.
I've seen a few bikes in our work bike area that have full mudguards with disks, albeit the mudguard stay is often bent around the disk brake caliper or is fitted in a way that it bypasses it.
Evans must have wanted to avoid any warranty issues by working around the calipers.
shouldbeinbed
Rollin' along
- Location
- Manchester way
Howard said:
+1 I use a Alfine 8 speed on a quite heavy load ugger of a bike on my hilly commute and its 90% fine.
on the steeper downhill (30mph+) bits I can outrun 8th gear but I've never had a problem struggling up the same hill in 1st, its pretty much a granny ring.
my observation is that the mid range (4/5 particularly) are quite spaced and you can often find yourself deciding which side of just right you want to be at. Its not hugely far off, you're never really struggling to pedal or spinning wildly but it needs another gear in there.
I'd also say that I've had problems shifting when I'm fully loading the pedals, you do need to back off for half a pedal rev when you shift, up in particular, to be sure it is smooth and effortless.
its been great this winter, is absolutely silent and so far hasn't needed any adjustment at all in the best part of a year.
I'm sold on hubs now (was fed up of p'ssing round with deraillures too) and would happily get another one but, depending on what riding you do, it might be worth it if you can wait/afford to go for the 11 speed. TBH that'll probably be a gear too many but for the extra weight, I'd rather have 1 too many than 1 too few.
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Moodyman
Legendary Member
Thanks Shouldbeinbed.
The 11-speed Alfine looks much better and has received a lot of praise but is not due to be released until September. Which means it'll be available on 2011 bikes at the earliest. Then, it's likely to push any bike over the £1000 C2W limit as the 8-speed Alfine comes just under.
My C2W voucher expires in May, so have to settle for the 8-speed. I did a gear inches calculation and I think I have enough gears for 90% of my riding. It's rather hilly round here so the low gears are welcomed. If I find I'm out-spinning gear 8, I might swap for a larger ring at the front.
The 11-speed Alfine looks much better and has received a lot of praise but is not due to be released until September. Which means it'll be available on 2011 bikes at the earliest. Then, it's likely to push any bike over the £1000 C2W limit as the 8-speed Alfine comes just under.
My C2W voucher expires in May, so have to settle for the 8-speed. I did a gear inches calculation and I think I have enough gears for 90% of my riding. It's rather hilly round here so the low gears are welcomed. If I find I'm out-spinning gear 8, I might swap for a larger ring at the front.
currystomper
Guru
- Location
- Fife
The AtoB mag issue 66 says "The Alfine appears to be technically identical to the lowly Nexus 8 - speed" but it is a lot more expensive - may want to check this out before getting a Nexus...
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MartinC
Über Member
- Location
- Cheltenham
The Alfine and the Premium Nexus 8 are very similar. IIRC the only difference is the the Alfine has some fancy clutch arrangement rather than a freewheel with pawls so that it (the freewheel) engages more quickly and is quieter.
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Moodyman
Legendary Member
I collected my Alfine bike last weekend and done a week's commute.
Verdict - GREAT!
Quiet, super smooth gear changes. Far better in stop start traffic and ability to change at lights is brilliant. And, I have enough gear range for my hilly commute.
Because there is a big gap between gears, you don't change unless you get a significant gradient change. This means you're not constantly flicking between gears - less component wear.
For year-round commuting, I cannot think of any meaningul advantage of derailleurs over hub gears.
Hope this helps others in a similar quandary.
Verdict - GREAT!
Quiet, super smooth gear changes. Far better in stop start traffic and ability to change at lights is brilliant. And, I have enough gear range for my hilly commute.
Because there is a big gap between gears, you don't change unless you get a significant gradient change. This means you're not constantly flicking between gears - less component wear.
For year-round commuting, I cannot think of any meaningul advantage of derailleurs over hub gears.
Hope this helps others in a similar quandary.
mcb2080
Senior Member
- Location
- East Kilbride
I have recently changed the cog on my alfine from a 21 tooth to an 18 tooth as I was spinning out going down hill at about 28-30 mph, I now get about 32-36 mph going down the same hills but I have lost my lowest gear under the old cog, this just makes it a little harder for any hill that I was climbing in the old first gear before.
I had thought of trying a 16 tooth but coming home from work I have to climb some pretty big hills that I think would finish my knees off with a 16 tooth cog as the gearing just wouldn't be low enough.
Is it possible to use anything higher than a 48t front chain ring for an alfine? If so would this mean I would get the same low gear off an 18t rear cog but give more speed at the top end or would this require more effort due to a higher tooth count of the front ring?(hope this makes sense LOL)
Roll on September for the 11 gear alfine
I had thought of trying a 16 tooth but coming home from work I have to climb some pretty big hills that I think would finish my knees off with a 16 tooth cog as the gearing just wouldn't be low enough.
Is it possible to use anything higher than a 48t front chain ring for an alfine? If so would this mean I would get the same low gear off an 18t rear cog but give more speed at the top end or would this require more effort due to a higher tooth count of the front ring?(hope this makes sense LOL)
Roll on September for the 11 gear alfine
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Moodyman
Legendary Member
MCB,
I have 39 tooth at the front and 18 on the rear. This is fine for most descents and gets me up the biggest climbs.
If I had to decide, I'd rather spin out on the big descents and freewheel than have to grind on the big ups. Grinding is bad for the knees, whereas freewheeling has no adverse health effects.
I have 39 tooth at the front and 18 on the rear. This is fine for most descents and gets me up the biggest climbs.
If I had to decide, I'd rather spin out on the big descents and freewheel than have to grind on the big ups. Grinding is bad for the knees, whereas freewheeling has no adverse health effects.
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Moodyman
Legendary Member
Just spotted your question about swapping the rings. I did a gear inches conversion (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/internal.html) before I bought the bike.
Have you got / ever used derailleurs and if so, do you remember your chainring / casette combination? If so, it's quite easy to work out your bottom / top range.
Example, my derailleur bike has 11-30 on the back and 48/38/28 at the front. I run 26 inch wheels. My top speed is 113 inches (48 divided by 11 x 26), my bottom is 24 inches (28 divided by 30 x 26).
My 39 & 18 Alfine combination gives me 94 inches (top) and 30 inches (bottom).
I know that I'm losing a bit at the top and a bit of the bottom, but I rarely used both of those anyway so no real loss.
Have you got / ever used derailleurs and if so, do you remember your chainring / casette combination? If so, it's quite easy to work out your bottom / top range.
Example, my derailleur bike has 11-30 on the back and 48/38/28 at the front. I run 26 inch wheels. My top speed is 113 inches (48 divided by 11 x 26), my bottom is 24 inches (28 divided by 30 x 26).
My 39 & 18 Alfine combination gives me 94 inches (top) and 30 inches (bottom).
I know that I'm losing a bit at the top and a bit of the bottom, but I rarely used both of those anyway so no real loss.
mcb2080
Senior Member
- Location
- East Kilbride
Moodyman said:
Cheers for the link, I didn't know about this.
I have noticed that my knees are a wee bit sorer after doping to the 18t cog.
It seems that I could move to a 52t front and keep the 21t rear and this would have been a better ratio all round for me.
Thanks again as this gives me something to think about, although if the 11 speed alfine is compatiable with my bike then I may just do a straight swap.
Upstream
Active Member
Hi guys,
I just happened upon this thread by accident and found it interesting as I've always been interested in hub geared road bikes. A couple of years ago at the Cycle Show in Birmingham I saw some road bikes with a 14 speed hub gear. At the time they were hugely expensive so I couldn't even consider one.
When I've looked online what I tend to find is that many of the bikes with discs, hub gears and drop bars are cyclocross types with heavyish frames. Ideally I'd be looking for a road bike with lightish frame, drop bars and disc brakes.
For those of you who have switched from a bike with derailleurs to hub gears, what was the range of gears like with the switch? At the moment I have a bike with 700 x 23 wheels and a gear set up of 52 / 39 with an 11 - 27 cassette. I find that going up some hills I could do with a slightly lower gear than 39 / 27 and I never outrun the top end.
Any thoughts..?
Thanks.
I just happened upon this thread by accident and found it interesting as I've always been interested in hub geared road bikes. A couple of years ago at the Cycle Show in Birmingham I saw some road bikes with a 14 speed hub gear. At the time they were hugely expensive so I couldn't even consider one.
When I've looked online what I tend to find is that many of the bikes with discs, hub gears and drop bars are cyclocross types with heavyish frames. Ideally I'd be looking for a road bike with lightish frame, drop bars and disc brakes.
For those of you who have switched from a bike with derailleurs to hub gears, what was the range of gears like with the switch? At the moment I have a bike with 700 x 23 wheels and a gear set up of 52 / 39 with an 11 - 27 cassette. I find that going up some hills I could do with a slightly lower gear than 39 / 27 and I never outrun the top end.
Any thoughts..?
Thanks.