Amateur home repair: identifying 2-piece crankset but no pinch bolts

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HomeFixit

New Member
Location
Cardiff
Hi - first post on this site. Thanks for your patience.

I do moderate home repairs for my and my family's bikes. I have basic knowledge and basic tools, and I use videos (e.g. Park Tools) to help with tasks.

From community bike days, we got indications my wife's bike needed some work on its crankset and chain. We took it to a charity here in town (bike recyclers plus maintenance and workshops) and they agreed it needed new chain and crankset, as well as a new rim for the rear wheel. However, the price for the work was higher than we expected - nearly the price when we bought it from them, second-hand! After looking into component parts online, it seems the price is pretty much parts plus £65 for labour.

I'd like to see if I can do it myself. The process of removing and installing crankset doesn't seem too tricky, but I'm getting different advice based on what kind of crankset it is. Problem is, this crankset doesn't look like any of those options. I'd love help in identifying what this part is and how to remove/install it before buying new parts.

Her bike is a Dawes Mojave, but as it was bought from the recycler charity, I highly doubt the crankset is the stock or original part. It looks like a 2-piece crankset: the right crank is attached to the protective guard and sprockets, and the left crank seems to be attached by a bolt. But there are no pinch bolts - the crank is just a smooth shaft of steel with the pedal at one end and a hole at the other. The bolt fastening it to the spindle is hexagonal, but it's not small like an allen key would loosen; rather, it's big, like perhaps a socket wrench would loosen and tighten.

This is where I get a bit turned around, because none of the sites or videos I've consulted have used a socket wrench to remove the crank. Does this sound right? Can you offer any suggestions on a) how to remove the crankset and b) what I should buy to replace it?

Many thanks!
 

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rrarider

Veteran
Location
Liverpool
What you need is called a crank extractor. Loosen the centre screw a little bit, then screw the tool into the female thread on the crank. Then turn the centre part of the tool to bear down on that big screw head and that will pull the crank off the taper.
 

Nibor

Bewildered
Location
Accrington
looks lik a standard 3 piece crank you will probably find the centre of the drive-side crank has a cover you can lever off revealing a nut similar to that on the non drive side crank. Remove both of these nuts completely before using a crank extractor which will push on the probably square taper bottom bracket.
 
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Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
Your pics are not clear but I think you might need a crank extractor. If you don't want to spend the money on one and the chainrings are toast you can put a lump of wood or metal behind it and drift it off with a hammer (works every time) .What you'll find when it's off is a square taper bottom bracket so that's the type of crank you need.
 
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OP
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HomeFixit

New Member
Location
Cardiff
Thanks for the replies. Glad to get consensus that it's a 3-piece. I'll pick up a crank extractor - though the chainrings are allegedly toast, I might as well do the thing properly.

@midlife The chain is in need of replacement, but the guys at the charity said that the chainrings are also worn, so putting a new chain on the old rings would just be adding up trouble. Measuring and maintaining the chain is not something I've thought about before (still pretty new to home bike repair), so it's really just been neglected to the point where the whole drivetrain needs replacing, not just the chain itself. It's not great news, but I'm also not surprised by it. We use our bikes 12 months of the year, pretty much daily. Just in-city commuting, but it adds up.

@Nibor Thanks for the tip about removing the cover on the drive-side crank. I wouldn't have thought to look for one there, which is also why I thought it was a 2-piece.
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
The cheapskate version of crank removal (or if the threads have stripped) is to loosen the retaining bolts/nuts a little and ride up hills standing on the pedals in a high gear until you hear a crack and then you know the crank will pull off easily when the bolts are full removed.

When using the proper crank extractor, be wary of a few things - ensure that there are no washers under the bolts and also ensure the threads are clean and that the extractor is threaded fully into position or you will risk stripping the threads.
 
The cheapskate version of crank removal (or if the threads have stripped) is to loosen the retaining bolts/nuts a little and ride up hills standing on the pedals in a high gear until you hear a crack and then you know the crank will pull off easily when the bolts are full removed.

When using the proper crank extractor, be wary of a few things - ensure that there are no washers under the bolts and also ensure the threads are clean and that the extractor is threaded fully into position or you will risk stripping the threads.


This is important. I have removed literally hundreds of cranks of this type and, to my embarrassment, have managed to strip the threads on a few because I wasn't concentrating on these basics.
 
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rogerzilla

Legendary Member
A normal 14mm socket may be too thick. Most crank extractors have a thin-walled 14mm socket on one end which is used with a large adjustable spanner to unscrew the bolt. It's how we all did it until the mid-90s.
 

alicat

Legendary Member
Location
Staffs
Wot @OldShep said. It's much more likely that the cassette at the back needs replacing than the chainring at the front. I've changed plenty of cassettes along with the chain but never the chainrings at the front.
 
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