Any tips on setting bearings?
- Thread starter User
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
sidevalve
Über Member
If [as is usual] one race is fixed and the other adjusts and has a locknut you have to find a thin spanner to fit the ajustable race while tightening the locknut AND keeping the spindle still at the same time.
On a headset you can keep the spindle still by holding the fork 'tween your knees. I have often found the best way to tighten the race is by hand [fingers only, no spanner] to the EXACT tension you feel is right [you can't really overdo it with fingers alone] then back off 1/16 of a turn put the spanner / thin grips [if you must] on the race and tighten down the locknut. The race will tighten a tiny bit but if all's well only the amount you "backed off" and bingo, a perfect set up. Have to admit however it can be a long slog.
On a headset you can keep the spindle still by holding the fork 'tween your knees. I have often found the best way to tighten the race is by hand [fingers only, no spanner] to the EXACT tension you feel is right [you can't really overdo it with fingers alone] then back off 1/16 of a turn put the spanner / thin grips [if you must] on the race and tighten down the locknut. The race will tighten a tiny bit but if all's well only the amount you "backed off" and bingo, a perfect set up. Have to admit however it can be a long slog.
accountantpete
OAP
Same principles but slightly different approach.
I find that he only way to properly lock something is to tighten up the lock nut whilst simultaneously undoing the adjustable race so that they bind into each other.
If you have the spanner on the locknut at 10 o'clock and the spanner on the race at 2 o'clock you then squeeze them towards each other like a pair of pliers.
The only problem is that you undo some of the preload* (tension) so you have to compensate by very slightly over-tightening in the first place.
* you might find some people use the term preload when talking about bearings - this is the amount of force needed to get the bearings in a state where they cannot move horizontally or vertically ie no play but free running.
I find that he only way to properly lock something is to tighten up the lock nut whilst simultaneously undoing the adjustable race so that they bind into each other.
If you have the spanner on the locknut at 10 o'clock and the spanner on the race at 2 o'clock you then squeeze them towards each other like a pair of pliers.
The only problem is that you undo some of the preload* (tension) so you have to compensate by very slightly over-tightening in the first place.
* you might find some people use the term preload when talking about bearings - this is the amount of force needed to get the bearings in a state where they cannot move horizontally or vertically ie no play but free running.
sidevalve
Über Member
Just another thought, with wheel bearings, is to sit the wheel horizontally in a vice, the non adjust side in the jaws and tighten up VERY gently [use a rag around the threads] to just hold the axle still. It's much easier to adjust/tighten - readjust/retighten and you can still feel the freedom of the bearing at the wheel rim.
accountantpete has a good method there but I must admit I tend to avoid usind a spanner on the bearing as I find it too easy to "overcook" the tightening. Still, each to his own on that one.
accountantpete has a good method there but I must admit I tend to avoid usind a spanner on the bearing as I find it too easy to "overcook" the tightening. Still, each to his own on that one.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Bugger scooters - unless it's a 'quality one'. They get trashed. 
