Audax/'Randonnée' bike - conversion candidate?

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jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
The starting point for setting up a bike is the bottom bracket axle centre. Adjust top surface of saddle so it is at correct distance ( 0.883 x leg length ).

Next, set the saddle fore/aft so your hip ball joint centres are the correct distance from the BB. Some use pedal spindle with horizontal crank.

Next, the lumbar vertebrae should be at 45 degrees when the hands are holding on the hoods ( most used position ). When the lumbar vertebrae are at 45 degs, position the handlebars so they obscure the front axle.



When this is all set up sweet and dandy, take measurements for future reference.
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Another consideration, following on the hub/wheels aspect, is whether it would be worth respacing the rear end. Can be done yourself but plenty of framebuilders offer it as a service as well. I'm guessing it has horizontal dropouts, if so, then you could respace to 135mm(or 132.5mm) and this would allow you to run road/MTB wheels or an internal gear hub.

Personally I think the bike would be great with a new version Sturmey Archer 3 speed and drop bars - but then that's what I've done with my Crosscheck so I'm biased. you get most of the benefits of a single speed and retain some gear range. I have mine with a 2:1 chainring to cog combination giving me 40/54/72 gear inches.

Regardless, the respacing would open up more options.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
These are all questions I think for the LBS - if I can get hold of one particular guy there who does know something about vintage road bikes (his colleagues are all willing to help but really don't have a clue!)

This is a dilemma I fully appreciate - the teenagers in my LBS have helped me to form my jaundiced view. In this case, if you have specific questions, I suspect you will get better input from the Technical section of this forum than in most LBSs.
 

zigzag

Veteran
Yup, those are exactly the options I'm mulling over.

Part of me wants to retain whatever's original that is (1) in good condition, (2) still working well, and (3) fit for purpose.

A fellow club member suggested simply adding a second front cog (+ FD) but he's not familiar with vintage components and hasn't looked at the Puch carefully so I'm not yet sure if that's a viable option.

That desire for originality notwithstanding.... it's really tempting to go for a whole new triple as you say, for maximum range of performance which could well put even the LEL within reach for this bike (??!!!!) That would be a pretty major operation, not cheap either and of course would utterly change the character of the bike, leaving essentially just the frame (and possibly headset and/or bottom bracket) as original.

These are all questions I think for the LBS - if I can get hold of one particular guy there who does know something about vintage road bikes (his colleagues are all willing to help but really don't have a clue!)

four years ago i was into that "steel is cool and real" thing, riding several steel bikes, set up differently. it's all well and good if you want to keep the original look, take it for a spin on a shorter audax. restored vintage bikes look really beautiful.
but when you start adding modern components (which work well, but don't look vintage) it just doesn't look right and spoil the whole "vintage thing". what i mean is: clipless pedals, dual pivot brakes, modern drop bars and sti shifters, modern chainset and derailleurs. they all work very well, but look out of place on a vintage bike. i couldn't accept how inferior parts work (or don't work) on longer rides, and decided it's not for me. the only type of bike that look more or less ok with some modern parts is singlespeed or fixed. and yes, you can ride lel on fixed if you train for it next couple of years. you could actually be the coolest rider of them all!
 
four years ago i was into that "steel is cool and real" thing, riding several steel bikes, set up differently. it's all well and good if you want to keep the original look, take it for a spin on a shorter audax. restored vintage bikes look really beautiful.
but when you start adding modern components (which work well, but don't look vintage) it just doesn't look right and spoil the whole "vintage thing". what i mean is: clipless pedals, dual pivot brakes, modern drop bars and sti shifters, modern chainset and derailleurs. they all work very well, but look out of place on a vintage bike. i couldn't accept how inferior parts work (or don't work) on longer rides, and decided it's not for me. the only type of bike that look more or less ok with some modern parts is singlespeed or fixed. and yes, you can ride lel on fixed if you train for it next couple of years. you could actually be the coolest rider of them all!

I totally agree! The only way I think I can accept going down that route is if, somewhere along the way, I pick up a second vintage mixte in better cosmetic condition, which I'd then be content to leave completely original.

The Puch frame does need respray (+ rustproof while we're at it), which is a factor in opening up the whole possibility of making the bike "something else". If I 'let go' of the originality, then what I get is a modern touring bike that happens to have a clean steel mixte frame. Now that would be unique - and IMO totally fab!!

I'd still keep the light metallic green colour and probably also have replacement Puch decals made up. :smile:
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
"P.S. Just in case it's still not 100% clear: THE BIKE FITS. :smile: "


You've got a bike that is ergonomically correct for you. :thumbsup: That's worth a couple of pounds of metal. In other words, a 24lb ill fitting bike is worse to ride than a 26lb nicely fitted bike.

With this in mind and you saying the frame needs a respray, GO THE WHOLE DISTANCE !!!

Have it the colour of your choice with the groupset you want, but keep that saddle.... :biggrin:

Get it to a frame builders and explain your plan. While its in bare metal, they could shift the rear brake bridge and come up with some forks for 700C rims.
 
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