Avid three juicy caliper

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Moby Jones

Well-Known Member
Location
Inverclyde
This is probably a stupid question but here goes anyway,
Can i open my juicy three rear caliper to service it and not have to bleed the brakes. Will i lose fluid if i open the caliper ???
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
This is probably a stupid question but here goes anyway,
Can i open my juicy three rear caliper to service it and not have to bleed the brakes. Will i lose fluid if i open the caliper ???

what do you mean by open up?

you can take the pads out without needing to bleed oryou can take the calip[er off the frame and thats it. undo the bolts on the side at your own risk . it will leak fluid and you will need to bleed the system. not sure what user servicable parts are in there really if the seals don't leak then no need to do anything. if the pistons are sticking then its a bleed them job whatever
 

lpretro1

Guest
you can replace the pistons & seals - kits readily available approx £10 - make sure you get the juicy 3 one as the oring is different from the 5 &7 kit.
 
OP
OP
Moby Jones

Moby Jones

Well-Known Member
Location
Inverclyde
you can replace the pistons & seals - kits readily available approx £10 - make sure you get the juicy 3 one as the oring is different from the 5 &7 kit.

Thanks, I have seen some kits on eBay. I assume I will have to bleed the brakes ???
I think one of the pistons is sticking and not operating properly.
 
If you take the caliper off the bike , remove the pads then gently squeeze the lever a little you can see if one or both pistons operate. If one stays still or doesn't move a great deal then it's likely it will need new pistons and seals. Best to pump the lever until one or both are out, you will lose fluid here so have a drip tray ready and rag as well. If you've a stuck piston remove it with compressed air. If it don't come out now buy a new caliper!
If you get the piston out hooray! Now we need some silicone lube on the new seals which having removed the old ones with a seal pick you can install in their grooves. Lube the back edge of the pistons and press into the calliper halves. Replace bolts and torque up, refit calliper, clean with Isopropyl alcohol (DOT fluids make great paint stripper) or similar stuff and get ready to bleed,
Okay, bleed kits. The Avid one is quite pricey, 25-35 pounds. Epic have a version @12.00. You'll need some DOT4 or 5.1 fluid. Have a good read of the bleed instructions before you start. The procedure is simple enough but seems complicated the first time you attempt it.

Having read all the above you may conclude that this time it might just be best to find a good bike mechanic and let them sort it out. If you don't feel competent to deal with hydraulics in this sort of depth it's what I would advise.
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
If you take the caliper off the bike , remove the pads then gently squeeze the lever a little you can see if one or both pistons operate. If one stays still or doesn't move a great deal then it's likely it will need new pistons and seals. Best to pump the lever until one or both are out, you will lose fluid here so have a drip tray ready and rag as well. If you've a stuck piston remove it with compressed air. If it don't come out now buy a new caliper!
If you get the piston out hooray! Now we need some silicone lube on the new seals which having removed the old ones with a seal pick you can install in their grooves. Lube the back edge of the pistons and press into the calliper halves. Replace bolts and torque up, refit calliper, clean with Isopropyl alcohol (DOT fluids make great paint stripper) or similar stuff and get ready to bleed,
Okay, bleed kits. The Avid one is quite pricey, 25-35 pounds. Epic have a version @12.00. You'll need some DOT4 or 5.1 fluid. Have a good read of the bleed instructions before you start. The procedure is simple enough but seems complicated the first time you attempt it.

Having read all the above you may conclude that this time it might just be best to find a good bike mechanic and let them sort it out. If you don't feel competent to deal with hydraulics in this sort of depth it's what I would advise.

avid brakes require the avid bleed kit. others have tried and failed with universal kits, i have no idea why this is but thats the way it seems to run. there was a huge thread on BikeRadar about them .
 
OP
OP
Moby Jones

Moby Jones

Well-Known Member
Location
Inverclyde
Interesting stuff guys, I would like to try it and if I make an arse of it I can always take it into my lbs then. I've watched afew videos and it seems pretty straightforward.
I think I will try and pick up the kits off flea bay next month once I get paid.
 
avid brakes require the avid bleed kit. others have tried and failed with universal kits, i have no idea why this is but thats the way it seems to run. there was a huge thread on BikeRadar about them .

The epic kit is not a universal type but are the same as the Avid kit except that it's a simpler printed instruction sheet and no blocks for between the pistons, but I agree, universal kits do not work on avid, at least not the ones I've come across

Moby, once you get the hang of it they are quite simple to actually bleed. Here's a link to the Epic kit.
http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/products/bleed-kits/avid/complete-kit/

There's other useful stuff on the site as well
http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resources/articles/how-hydraulic-brakes-work/
 
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