Axle spacers

[oilyrag]

I have just completed a little project where I have built a joytech 8 speed free hub into a mavic 700 wheel (quite chuffed actually) every thing is fine though not trued yet. My question is about the axle. The dropouts are 135mm and axle length is 145mm. What I have done is set the drive side with cone and lock nut leaving 5mm of axle to sit in the drop outs. The non drive side I have packed out with washers cone and lock nut to leave 5mm of axle on this side. Will this be ok.

 

[I like Skol]

Sounds ideal to me, and by adding the spacers to the non-drive side you are helping reduce the dish of the wheel required to centralise the rim.

 

[oilyrag]

Thanks for the quick reply.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Should be OK. 5mm axle 'showing' is about the most one should have. Dropouts can be as little as 6mm deep.

by adding the spacers to the non-drive side you are helping reduce the dish of the wheel required to centralise the rim.

Not quite sure how that works. Can you explain? Would have thought that the dish is dependent on the width of the hub including the width of the freehub.
Anyway you could add spacers in on the drive side it would wreak havoc with chainline and front derailleur clearances and operation.

 

[I like Skol]

Not quite sure how that works. Can you explain? Would have thought that the dish is dependent on the width of the hub including the width of the freehub.
Anyway you could add spacers in on the drive side it would wreak havoc with chainline and front derailleur clearances and operation.

The OP built the wheel from scratch and has set the hub position between the dropouts with additional spacers on the non-drive side. This has effectively moved the hub flanges towards the drive side [EDIT: of the centrepoint] so the rim will need to be slightly to the left to sit centrally between the seat and chain stays. He will not have needed to introduce quite as much dish during the spoke tensioning as he otherwise would have done if he had been installing the hub in a frame of the dimensions it was originally intended for (presumably the hub was for a road OLN dimension of 126mm or 130mm?).
If he has gone from a 130mm spacing to 135mm then the dish of the wheel would be shifted by 2.5mm.

 

[Ajax Bay]

OK so it's the wider OLN that's allowing slightly less dish. The spacers have to go in to make the hub fit that.

 

[I like Skol]

OK so it's the wider OLN that's allowing slightly less dish. The spacers have to go in to make the hub fit that.

I can't think of any other reason for needing the extra spacers, maybe @oilyrag can explain?

 

[oilyrag]

I can't think of any other reason for needing the extra spacers, maybe @oilyrag can explain?

I think you are correct about the hub being for a road OLN dimension. I acquired it from a friend and just built the wheel around it. When I came to put the wheel on the bike the drop outs were 135 mm OLN, and as I said I just got a 145 mm axle, locked the drive side with cone and lock nut leaving 5mm to sit in the drop out. The non drive side had the same 5mm to sit in the drop out and approx 5mm of thread showing between lock nut and drop out so I packed this out with spacers (between lock nut and cone). Hope I haven't mucked things up as I am on a huge learning curve regarding working on bikes.