Bearings - How do you pull yours?

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chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
So modern bikes increasingly make more use of sealed cartridge bearings rather than loose bearings in a cup and cone arrangements, however, they are still disposable items and need replacing from time to time. I'm lucky in that both my Gravel and Mountain bike only have sealed bearings in the wheels and headsets, but looking into how to replace the freehub bearings on the gravel bike without investing in hundreds of Euros of tools has led me down a deep rabbit hole.

So the diagram below shows a modern front and rear hub, in the rear hub four different sealed bearings can be seen, two in the hub itself and two in the freehub, the two I'll need to extract soon. Separating these bearings a small tube can be seen, this is the preload tube and sets the exact distance between the sets of bearings and hence preload. The sealed bearings themselves are an interference fit into the shell of the hub or freehub body.

Screenshot 2024-05-22 at 16.02.36.png


Now a quick Google for bearing extraction hacks will quickly find many suggestions to gently push this preload tube to the side and tap the back of the bearing with a screwdriver or punch, working evenly around the diameter of the bearing to remove it as straight as possible. Problems with this method are the potential to slip and damage the actual hub shell itself or not apply enough even pressure on the bearing and again potentially damage the shell as the bearing comes out at an angle. Another issue is that not all preload tubes actually move to one side and hence deny access to the reverse side of the bearing.

So another way to do this is to buy a blind bearing pulling kit and rather than spend hundreds of Euros on a bike specific one, there are cheaper €50 ones on Amazon that are recommended by a few folk as being more than adequate for the average home bike mechanic. I was quite keen on this approach until I read this article on Hambini's website:

https://www.hambini.com/bearing-extraction-using-blind-bearing-pullers/

This article makes a very valid point that the collet on the puller will damage the preload tube as it expands behind the bearing. This will take the form of flaring on the end of the preload tube and hence shorten it, which it turn negatively affects the preload.

There are suggestions in the above article about recommended tools for the extraction of bearings, but they are eye wateringly expensive and out of the reach of the home mechanic.
One other possible solution is this tool from Wheels Manufacturing and this is an expanding collet that grips the inner race and then gets punched through from the other side.

Screenshot 2024-05-22 at 16.35.00.png


At €40 it's a lot cheaper than the dedicated tools, but will it work? I can see a couple of potential pitfalls, but maybe I might try. So what do folks think? am I overthinking this? are there other methods I've not thought of and what methods do others use? or is life too short and just take it to a bike shop?
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
I'm surprised no one has answered this. I was hoping for a learning opportunity.

At the moment sealed bearings are in my "LBS Only" classification. I'm perfectly happy with cup and cone but don't have a clue what sealed bearings are all about so I don't touch them. Looks like some new tools might be required.
 

Big John

Legendary Member
I've only ever whacked sealed bearings out with a hammer and drift. Put new ones back in with whatever socket in my socket set is the same diameter as the outer ring of the bearing. I've used YouTube a few times as a guide. Sure, you can buy the appropriate tools and I'm sure they're great but for the number of times I work on sealed bearings it's not worth it. I've not damaged any yet but there's always a first time 😉
 

Tenkaykev

Guru
Location
Poole
So modern bikes increasingly make more use of sealed cartridge bearings rather than loose bearings in a cup and cone arrangements, however, they are still disposable items and need replacing from time to time. I'm lucky in that both my Gravel and Mountain bike only have sealed bearings in the wheels and headsets, but looking into how to replace the freehub bearings on the gravel bike without investing in hundreds of Euros of tools has led me down a deep rabbit hole.

So the diagram below shows a modern front and rear hub, in the rear hub four different sealed bearings can be seen, two in the hub itself and two in the freehub, the two I'll need to extract soon. Separating these bearings a small tube can be seen, this is the preload tube and sets the exact distance between the sets of bearings and hence preload. The sealed bearings themselves are an interference fit into the shell of the hub or freehub body.

View attachment 731718

Now a quick Google for bearing extraction hacks will quickly find many suggestions to gently push this preload tube to the side and tap the back of the bearing with a screwdriver or punch, working evenly around the diameter of the bearing to remove it as straight as possible. Problems with this method are the potential to slip and damage the actual hub shell itself or not apply enough even pressure on the bearing and again potentially damage the shell as the bearing comes out at an angle. Another issue is that not all preload tubes actually move to one side and hence deny access to the reverse side of the bearing.

So another way to do this is to buy a blind bearing pulling kit and rather than spend hundreds of Euros on a bike specific one, there are cheaper €50 ones on Amazon that are recommended by a few folk as being more than adequate for the average home bike mechanic. I was quite keen on this approach until I read this article on Hambini's website:

https://www.hambini.com/bearing-extraction-using-blind-bearing-pullers/

This article makes a very valid point that the collet on the puller will damage the preload tube as it expands behind the bearing. This will take the form of flaring on the end of the preload tube and hence shorten it, which it turn negatively affects the preload.

There are suggestions in the above article about recommended tools for the extraction of bearings, but they are eye wateringly expensive and out of the reach of the home mechanic.
One other possible solution is this tool from Wheels Manufacturing and this is an expanding collet that grips the inner race and then gets punched through from the other side.

View attachment 731719

At €40 it's a lot cheaper than the dedicated tools, but will it work? I can see a couple of potential pitfalls, but maybe I might try. So what do folks think? am I overthinking this? are there other methods I've not thought of and what methods do others use? or is life too short and just take it to a bike shop?

I have used blind bearing pullers / slide hammer extensively when working. I can't see how it could damage the tube as you only need to expand the collet enough to grip the inner bore of the bearing. A very quick google found these
IMG_5672.png
 

Mr Celine

Discordian
IME there are differing designs of rear hub and freewheels.

My summer bike has an Ambrosio hub and I have in the past changed all four bearings without using any special tools.

My winter bike has a Joytech pattern Specialised branded hub. I couldn't work out how to change the freehub bearing (there was only one). As it was only noisy when freewheeling I just lived with it until I sourced a replacement freehub body. This cost a fraction of the price of the special tools you've been looking at.
 
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chriswoody

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
I've only ever whacked sealed bearings out with a hammer and drift. Put new ones back in with whatever socket in my socket set is the same diameter as the outer ring of the bearing. I've used YouTube a few times as a guide. Sure, you can buy the appropriate tools and I'm sure they're great but for the number of times I work on sealed bearings it's not worth it. I've not damaged any yet but there's always a first time 😉

I've used this method too when replacing the wheel bearings in the rear hub, however whilst it was ultimately successful, it was a faff to make sure the bearing drifted in dead straight amongst other issues. I started to look into other methods though, purely because of the risk factor, i have two nice bikes that use these bearings and at the end of the day I'd rather do the job properly if I can and remove the risk of destroying my hubs.

I have used blind bearing pullers / slide hammer extensively when working. I can't see how it could damage the tube as you only need to expand the collet enough to grip the inner bore of the bearing. A very quick google found these

If you look at the article on Hambini's site you'll see that most blind bearing pullers are designed to grip onto the rear face of the bearing and it's this that ultimately damages the preload tube. Gripping just the inner surface of the bearing is far better and as you say won't damage the preload tube. The tool I've pictured in my original post is also designed to do just that and grip only the inner surface of the bearing. The problem with that is that it won't be as firm and strong a grip as a blind bearing puller that grips the reverse of the bearing.

I've seen similiar sets to these on the German Amazon site as well and must admit until I read the Hambini article, was quite tempted.

I just lived with it until I sourced a replacement freehub body. This cost a fraction of the price of the special tools you've been looking at.

Indeed I could just buy a new freehub body and they are available at €49, however, the tool I pictured above retails at €40. So already I'm saving money and I do have two bikes with sealed bearing hubs. There is also the longer term environmental impact, I'm loathe to throw away a perfectly good freehub body for the sake of two bearings.

This is a bit of a niche problem though, as pointed out, how often does this job really need doing? In my experience it's a once every five years or so and is it really worth lashing out on nice tools that will be gathering dust for most of their life? That's why I started this thread as well to see if any one had any other experiences or thoughts. Taking it to the bike shop is sadly not an option for me, despite having 6 of them in town I don't trust them to tie my shoelaces let alone let them loose on my nice bikes.
 

templehead

Active Member
Same solution as Big John, used many times on PTWs before I had to do it on my Dawes a couple of years ago.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
I'm surprised no one has answered this. I was hoping for a learning opportunity.

At the moment sealed bearings are in my "LBS Only" classification. I'm perfectly happy with cup and cone but don't have a clue what sealed bearings are all about so I don't touch them. Looks like some new tools might be required.

im the same , the commuter bike is cup and cone , the rest are sealed and given they only tend to go out in half decent weather last many years so i dont begrudge lbs .The set on my superstar wheels must have lasted at least 8 years before i thought they might need a new set .
 
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chriswoody

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
So whilst asking the bike shop to do my bearings would probably be the best idea, for a number of reasons that's not really a practical option for me. So after lots of prevaricating and procrastination I've decided to return to this problem. After a summer of hard riding the bearings in the back wheel of the mountain bike are completely shot and need replacing.

So after watching this video a few times and noticing how the collets he was using don't seem to go further than the bearing I finally decided to take the plunge and buy a blind bearing kit similar to the one he was using.




I paid €35 from Amazon which I didn't feel was too bad and received this in the post:

P1020452.JPG


I immediately modified the legs of the puller by wrapping foam and insulating tape around the base of the legs to protect my hubs from damage and then had a look at what I had.

The first problem became immediately apparent, despite saying that the 15mm ID of my bearings was covered, it really wasn't. No matter how hard the pin was tightened one collet wouldn't expand enough and the next size up wouldn't go through the bearing. The collets also had quite a pronounced lip on them to grip on the reverse side of the bearing, the exact thing I didn't want to happen. So I decided to kill two birds with one stone and file off the lip of the collet that was closest to fitting.

P1020451.JPG

With that done, the colet went through the bearing and I was able to then fight with the rest of the extractor. It's a bit of a faff with cheap tools, but once I'd sussed it all out the actual extraction was really smooth and easy. The bearing pulled out nice and straight and you can see the collet sits flush with the inside race and poses no danger to the preload tube.

P1020450.JPG


So there we have it, there's no getting away from the fact it's a cheap tool set, but with a little bit of care it can do the job I wanted without causing harm to the bike and saves me a trip to the bike shop. It will even pull the bearings from inside a freehub, so at €35 it will soon have paid for itself with replacing the bearings in both this and the gravel bike. I just need to buy some replacement bearings now and pop them in.
 
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chriswoody

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
I'm not, it works.

The problem is it only works for some hub designs, a lot of modern hubs have large pre-load tubes which prevent you from getting in behind the bearing with a drift. I certainly wouldn't have got the drive side bearing out using a drift on this bike.

For a measly €35 this tool seems to get the job done really well not matter whether there's a preload tube behind it or not and it also completely eliminates the chance of damaging the hub.
 
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