Bicycle fitting nightmare

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cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
agree with the above saddle to low , sort that out and your setback from bottom bracket them look at the reach, your body should be leaning around 40-50 degrees dependant on flexibility / strength when on the hoods
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i tend to ride on the hoods elbows bent most of the time , i reckon i could drop a spacer or two but im comfy as is
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cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
Thank you for your input, it's genuinely appreciated. Obviously I can't see what I look like riding and have no clue as to what I'm doing wrong as I am a complete novice.

I must admit that I don't feel cramped when riding. I will try moving the saddle forward. As to my position, remember my span is 173cm so my arms are about 35mm longer than standard which will push me a little more upright than standard.
if your over long in the arms then a longer stem would be in order to compensate
 

vickster

Legendary Member
Thank you for your input, it's genuinely appreciated. Obviously I can't see what I look like riding and have no clue as to what I'm doing wrong as I am a complete novice.

I must admit that I don't feel cramped when riding. I will try moving the saddle forward. As to my position, remember my span is 173cm so my arms are about 35mm longer than standard which will push me a little more upright than standard.

Back not forwards?
Your legs look very bent, especially on the downstroke?
 

davidphilips

Veteran
Location
Onabike
Just had another look at the pictures of your bike set up, on the picture where your cranks are at 45 degrees your caff should be straight and yours is way to far back,, saddle needs to be put back a lot only my view but looks about 4 inches out?
 
If you have gibbon arms, you find a lower bar position as well as longer reach helps. Horizontal reach and vertical drop of the bars work together to establish distance from your shoulders. It is hard to say which is more important for comfort ( ignoring aerodynamics for the moment) . Imagine a radius drawn from your ideal shoulder position, you can place the bars "anywhere" on this radius. An adjustable, variable position stem may be useful.
 

Spiderweb

Not So Special One
Location
North Yorkshire

If anything your bike looks too small rather than too big!
You definitely need the extra top tube length from the Boardman Geometry.
Is it possible you are not sure of the fit because you are not familiar with riding a drop bar road bike?
If you don’t have issues ie. pain then I would just get some miles in, stop overthinking the fit.
 
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TK421

TK421

Casual Extremist
Location
Not at my post
If anything your bike looks too small rather than too big!
You definitely need the extra top tube length from the Boardman Geometry.
Really? OK

Is it possible you are not sure of the fit because you are not familiar with riding a drop bar road bike?
Most likely. It's the first cycle that I have ever built/owned/ridden.
If you don’t have issues ie. pain then I would just get some miles in, stop overthinking the fit
Overthinking is probably hitting the nail on the head.
 
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TK421

TK421

Casual Extremist
Location
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No, you are definitely more upright than most riders on a road bike.

And that is probably also why you are having difficulty getting into the drops - it is more of a movement when you are starting that upright.
That certainly makes sense. Thanks for the insight.
 
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TK421

TK421

Casual Extremist
Location
Not at my post
Thanks again to all who have posted. It really helps to know where I'm going wrong and where I am just thinking that I am going wrong. Narrowing down the issues to those that need work is very helpful.
 

Jameshow

Veteran
I would alter one dimension at a time. Start with seat height. Ease it by a 1/2 / cm at the time.

Then when you feel your legs are almost straight then you can look at reach.
 
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