Bigger front tyre?

[2Loose]

Hi, I've been away a while but have just got myself an mtb to play around with over the winter evenings and keep the roadie purely for weekend day rides.

I am wondering about tyres, as the bike came with a pair of Python 2's which seem quite 'low profile' and fast rolling, but various bits that I have read over the last few weeks seems to suggest that a fatter, knobblier tyre on the front may be worth thinking about as things get a bit muddier over the next few months.

Is it really the done thing to mix and match front and rear tyres in this way, and can anyone make any suggestions?

 

[steve50]

i would have said just use the same size knobbly tyres on both wheels but if you want to go bigger on one wheel it has to be the drive wheel for better traction.

 

[Hugh Manatee]

Way back when Joe Murray designed Kona mountain bikes, they went through a period when the front tyre was fatter than the rear. They did this to absorb bumps and bangs slightly better and thus give better steering.

Front suspension then evolved and that was the end of that. This was late 80s or early 90s.

 

[MarquisMatsugae]

I use a 2.5/2.3 combo on mine and the bigger tyre does give you more traction and contact with the ground.
But I don't see a problem with the same size tyre at all.
My rule of thumb is not to go any narrower than 2.3,but that is my own personal thing.
I use Vittorias btw.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Bicycle tyres are essentially tubular in shape and therefore cannot be "low profile".

 

[MarquisMatsugae]

Bicycle tyres are essentially tubular in shape and therefore cannot be "low profile".

He just means a shallow tread I'm sure

 

[ChrisEyles]

I've found a fatter tyre up front works really well to cushion the bumps (especially with rigid forks).

I use a 2.1 up front and a 1.9 on the rear on my old 90's rigid MTB. If you're using the bike exclusively off-road (which I do), then I've found really quite knobby tyres give a better grip than smoother ones. They are infuriating on the road though, where you can use the pitch of the tyre noise as a rough speedometer!

I was exclusively a roadie for a long time before getting my first MTB about a year ago (just doing up my second one in the garage atm) - you'll have a blast

 

[Yellow Saddle]

He just means a shallow tread I'm sure

I could have sworn he said "low profile".

 

[screenman]

I could have sworn he said "low profile".

No that is just what he wrote

 

[MarquisMatsugae]

I knew what he meant ,as Pythons are not the most aggressive tyre .

 

[Levo-Lon]

I sometimes use a 2.35 F 2.2 R.. it works for many reasons..
more grip turning..
more cushioning
more tyre clearence at the front with a sus fork
The front is where you need grip..
the rear sliding or spinning is all part of the fun..a front washing out Not so much as a face plant follows..

 

[marzjennings]

Bicycle tyres are essentially tubular in shape and therefore cannot be "low profile".

Except tyres with minimal tread are very often described as 'low profile'.

 

[marzjennings]

Depends on trail conditions, but I've found a knobbly 2.5" on the front and a semi slick or low profile 2.3" or 2.0" on the back can help with traction in the corners and acceleration sprinting out of corners.

 

[Big Dave laaa]

Python 2 are a great summer tyre but you might want to look at a more winter specific tyre for the front as the mud develops. Maxxis high roller 2 is not bad until it gets silly muddy then you need to be looking at the likes of Schwalbe Magic Mary or something similar. Front tyres tend to have a squarer profile to grip in the turns. Rears more rounded for less rolling resistance. Saying that you could just leave as is and take it a bit slower. Have fun!

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Except tyres with minimal tread are very often described as 'low profile'.

I haven't ever come across that nomenclature. I've seen semi-slick etc, but not low profile. Which company does that?