Bottom bracket removal question

[2clepto]

Can anyone provide a link please to the spanner i need to remove the drive side cup? of a bottom bracket from a Raleigh Scorpio? its round with two edges about 1 1/2" inch apart. ive tried using a large adjustable but i cant get any leverage on the cup because the ledges where the adjustable grips are way to thin.

also, ive got a cbt Italia executive with shimano 600 group, i want to transfer to the Scorpio, does anyone know of any problems ill encounter regarding different threads, tools, no no's, etc?

my reason for a swap over is the italia has a frame that is too small for me and the Scorpio fits me well. plus most of the parts on the scorpio are stock or feeling decrepit. although the SIS rear mech 6speed works very well, im in two minds whether to just swap the brakes, levers, cables and bars.

any advice much appreciated. thanks mark.

 

[Erudin]

Maybe one of these links might help:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebo4DOK4MVc

http://www.madegood.org/bikes/repair/remove-a-cup-and-cone-bottom-bracket/
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-bottom-bracket-adjusting-wrench-hcw11/rp-prod50271
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...-bracket-tool-rhcup-36mm/tacxtool380000000000

 

[raleighnut]

A tip when removing the non adjust side cup is to temporarily refit the crank arm, it helps to stop the spanner slipping off.
Its also left hand threaded on most bikes so undoes backwards.

 

[Tim Hall]

Ditch the thin spanner and go for a Big Nut and Bolt, as described by the Sainted Sheldon. Here.

 

[raleighnut]

Ditch the thin spanner and go for a Big Nut and Bolt, as described by the Sainted Sheldon. Here.

Great for removal but not so hot for installing a new one.

 

[2clepto]

thanks chaps, i very much appreciate all the advice.

ive looked around and for two tools its 30 to 40 pounds. i may still purchase the hcw4. for the reasons ralieghnut highlights and the addition of the pin spanner. i prefer the nut and bolt, washer work around. but will probably still require the hwc4 tool to replace the cup and tighten it up. ill let you know how i get on.

many thanks.

 

[stuee147]

You probably know this but you do know its reverse thread so you need to turn it the opposite way to undo I just mention it. As I spent ages trying to undo it before I was told then it came off easy with a large adjustable

 

[2clepto]

You probably know this but you do know its reverse thread so you need to turn it the opposite way to undo I just mention it. As I spent ages trying to undo it before I was told then it came off easy with a large adjustable

cheers thanks. im trying to locate the nut bolts needed. just been to bnq and they sell single bolts, but ten nuts and ten washers in packs. for one nut and bolt it was going to be nearly a tenner. so im off to a scrapyard.

 

[2clepto]

one of the reasons i was wanting to remove the drive side cup is a think i feel some play in it or near it.

anyway, ive located a bolt the right size i just need the five washers to make up the tool.

i degreased and greased the two sets of caged ball bearings, which looked fine on inspection, and the axle, again looked fine no rubbing or pitting marks, and reassembled but ive still got play in the BB, which seems to be still there even if i tighten the left hand side cup tightish more than usual. im unsure but the left side cup may have more play in it than id like, you know like when you first reinsert the left cup back into the frame, its like the frames a bit baggy, but i know nothing )

another thing, when i removed the axle i neglected to note which side it came out because id watched a vid that said one side is longer than the other, the drive side. but this axle is symmetrical, except just past that curve where the ball bearings rub up against, has a small metal line all the way around the axles circumference. ive tried the axle both ways and it still ends up with play in the BB. im probs doing things wrong, but im going slow and careful, but sometimes i suspect maybe the parts have worn a little because ive already got the front wheel off because the front wheel axle was grinding when i purchased the bike yesterday. and indeed there is a smooth wear line a few mm deep along one side where its been rubbing.

im still yet to purchase a park tool hcw5, but i have the park tool to remove the left hand side cup, and im using a hammer and screwdriver to free up and tighten the lock ring, maybe this has a bearing on this a little, but im careful to note that the left cup remains in place when i hammer the lock ring down.

much appreciate all the kind advice. cheers mark.

 

[2clepto]

oh yes, success. cant remember who said it, either on here or a BB blog, but ill paraphrase,

"cant remember how many times ive been presented with a bb slop problem and found out the caged bearings were the wrong way round..."

took it apart again this morning after self denying for an hour and yup there was my problem right there. swapped them over, put loads more grease in and the BB is working extra smooth. just taking it for a test ride.

thanks for all your help everyone its invaluable.

i came across this set of mechanic pdfs downloadable this morning, which may help some people on here,

https://bikesnotbombs.org/resources/earn-a-bike-training-manual

many thanks mark.