Message from Bridget
We managed to extend our Iranian visa yesterday for another month (what a palaver that was!) and we now have our Khazakstan visa. We are still rather stuck in Tehran awaiting visa's for Uzbeckistan and Turkmenistan. We have been refused tourist visa's for Russia and we might try again in Astana or Alamty to get transit visa's intead. If we have a train ticket booked this will help but if we dont get the visa we dont get the train so its a catch 22 for us. The alternative is to fly over Russia back to Europe via Istanbul (to Greece maybe - I hear its cheap ther these days) and train back from there.
The traffic here in Tehran is truly horrendous and pervades everything we do. You simply cant get away from it. But, it's all made up for by the locals who are definitly the most friendly, welcoming and generous people we have met anywhere in the world. We cant' update our blog (as above) from here as it access is restricted but when we get to Ashkabat we should be ok. More on Iran will follow then.