Buying 2nd hand - advice needed

[Kevoffthetee]

Apologies for the million and one questions, but after a long chat with the mrs about an on going shoulder complaint I've sold my golf gear and want a new(er) road bike.

Can anyone point me to any guides (preferably with images) to show things to look out for in a 2nd hand road bike. I've got a budget of £500-600 but want to make sure I don't buy a lemon that's don't millions of miles. Buying away from the budget end is new to me so am a little nervous.

For that money, what components should I be looking for?

Do shops sell on previous years models at a good reduction meaning I get a new bike and peace of mind? I'm going to edinburgh cycles in Byker and Evans cycles to have a look but won't be buying anything there and then as the wife will still twist her face in which case I wont to be 100% happy

Thanks, Kev

 

[ScotiaLass]

If it was me (I don't ride road bikes) I think I'd go for the peace of mind of a new bike, with a warranty.
Lots of dealers sell on last years models at a discount. I'm sure someone will be along soon to advise.
Good luck and let's have some pics when you get your new steed!

 

[smokeysmoo]

Shops do sell off last years stock, but depending what size you need would largely dictate the viability of this option, what I mean is I'm 6' 5" and the chances of me ever getting an uber bargain this way is slim to say the least, whereas if you only need a mid sized frame then the chances are higher.

Smaller LBS's might sell used bikes, but I doubt chains like EBC and Evans will, I've never seen any on the shop floor anyway.

If you're not sure what to look for in a prospective purchase is there anyone you can take with you to assess it for you?

As for components, it all depends on the bike and it's age as to what you're likely to get for your money, but rest assured you'll always get far more bang for your buck buying used.

 

[jim55]

triban 3-5 is the standard reply

 

[helston90]

For that price and with your level of uncertainty I would look for last years model reduced- especially if you can try a load of this years bikes out to help you decide (you can work out/ find out which models are just component/ colour change and which are a complete overhaul) enabling you to buy online where you may get a smidge more for your money.

 

[smokeysmoo]

especially if you can try a load of this years bikes out to help you decide enabling you to buy online

Poor form IMO, just saying

 

[Kevoffthetee]

I like to buy in the shop if they put the effort in and aren't extortionately over the top

 

[smokeysmoo]

I like to buy in the shop if they put the effort in and aren't extortionately over the top

Most LBS's these days appreciate the need to be competitive, and as such they will usually have a deal with you. I believe Specialized do hold a gun to retailers heads though, so deals on their bikes may be harder to come by.

At the end of the day a good LBS relationship can be worth it's weight in gold, not only in terms of repairs if you're not confident in doing your own*, but also for pulling you out of the mire when you need something at the 11th hour, or when Yodel fail to deliver something you have bought on-line and need for tomorrows ride.

*FYI - some shops near me won't even take in bikes they haven't sold directly!

 

[KneesUp]

Most LBS's these days appreciate the need to be competitive, and as such they will usually have a deal with you. I believe Specialized do hold a gun to retailers heads though, so deals on their bikes may be harder to come by.

Given that it's illegal to fix prices, it's surprising how so many shops sell the same bikes at the same price in a competitive market, isn't it?

 

[smokeysmoo]

Given that it's illegal to fix prices, it's surprising how so many shops sell the same bikes at the same price in a competitive market, isn't it?

I know what you mean, however I didn't actually say they fix prices, but there's many a slip twixt cup and a lip

 

[KneesUp]

I suppose at £500 to £600 there is a chance that the bike is stolen. I've bought a few secondhand bikes recently and as none were over £35 or under 20 years old I didn't unduly worry that they were stolen, because who'd bother? That said I contacted the selllers and both seemed very nice and genuine, and didn't want to to anything dodgy like meet in a car park. One I collected from the building the chap worked in and the other from someone's house.

The main thing you want to check is that it isn't bent I suppose, and that the welds are good. I would imagine this is more important with aluminium than it is with steel as steel will be easier to re-weld, although I'd avoid that like the plague as it suggests the bike hasn't been looked after and will require a re-paint.

Two of the bikes I've bought have sloppy headsets and need new bearings. Put the front brake on and rock the bike to check for play. Mine aren't awful and I still ride one, but replacing the bearings is on the to-do list.

Some of the more expensive parts on a bike are the chainrings/crankset, so check for wear. I'm finding that it's often cheaper to replace the whole thing than get new chainwheels if you need more than one. Worn chainrings isn't a deal breaker, but the price should reflect any wear if you need to replace them straightaway / sooner. Bear in mind that not all the teeth are supposed to be the same shape and size on your modern ones though.

Obviously also check the wheels are round

Essentially I'd say that if the frame is sound, nothing else really matters so much as it's all replaceable, but if any of it needs replacing then the price of the bike should reflect that.

Happy cycling.

 

[KneesUp]

I know what you mean, however I didn't actually say they fix prices, but there's many a slip twixt cup and a lip

Oh I know, and neither did I. I just noted that I was surprised that, for example. a Giant Defy 1 appears to be £999.00 no matter where you get it from - which is unusual because usually in a competitive market you would get more variation (and prices ending in 99p)

 

[MartinQ]

If you're a 54, something like
http://startcycles.co.uk/bikes/road...nondale-caad8-6-tiagra-road-bike-white-1.html
would be good. If you're not sure about 2nd hand, getting a discount on last years model is good, but you'd have had more choice earlier in the year (late winter). Evans list of savings:
http://www.evanscycles.com/categori...e_from=;price_to=12000;on_sale=;sort=savings;
there are other bike shops ...

600 will get you a decent road bike (this year):
http://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/71216-2014s-hottest-£500-£900-road-bikes
Might be better in the long run and just get out there. If you're still enjoying it in a year or so, replace the parts (wheels, ...) with better ones when they start wearing out?

 

[Cycleops]

With that sort of budget you'd be best buying a new last years or year before that model, there's plenty about. Unless you know what you are looking at buying secondhand can be a minefield. Sure, it's all replaceable as @KneesUp says but at what cost? OK you can replace the crankset but if that's worn chances are all the drive train components will be worn. If your new bike gives problems you just take it back. Have a look on the net and then visit a few local shops, most will give you good advice.

Don't get too hung up on components they will be good quality for the price band you are looking at.

 

[ScotiaLass]

I like to buy in the shop if they put the effort in and aren't extortionately over the top

My bike was the same online as it was in my LBS.
I chose the LBS as the service was second to none. They are more expensive for accessories but they'll fit it for free for me if it's a quick job!