C2C - Whitehaven to Whitby

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Gixxerman

Guru
Location
Market Rasen
My mate Duncan and I did the C2C over 3 days starting Wednesday 23 July. We did the route of
Whitehaven to Whitby using NCN routes 71, 70 & 165 a distance of about 190 miles. We decided
to camp rather than B+B as we kind of liked the more self-sufficent option. My mate is
actually an ex-work colleague. He used to work in Lincoln with me until a few months ago, but
has now moved to Barnsley. This helped a lot as he is not the most regular cyclist, and cycling
the 10 miles to work over those Yorkshire hills helped with his fitness and preparation. He
also went of for a few longish rides the weeks leading up to the off. The worry was that he
had not cycled more than 30 miles in any one day. I live in Market Rasen on the edge of the
Lincolnshire Wolds so I get some hill climbing and I regularly do 60/70 mile rides, so I was
confident that I was up to the callenge. It was originally planned for early May, however we
had some setbacks. The first date was dropped due to poor weather (wind and rain). The second
date was dropped as Duncan did not think his fitness was quite there. The third date was
dropped as I pulled my calf playing football.

Forth date weather checked out OK. In fact too OK, it was going to be 24 degrees. Phew that
would be hard we thought, but it beats rain. Trains were booked on the Sunday and off we went.
I was on my trusty 2009 Trek 7.3FX hybrid and he was on a steel Trek 753 hybrid that was about
15 years old. We both just had 2 rear panniers and a small 2 man tent / sleeping rolls on his
back rack. The plan was to break the route into 60 mile days, with lunchstops at half distance
of 30 miles. I had made some route cards that were basically my own brand shorthand which were
placed in an old name tag wallet and attached to the top of the stem with a bulldog clip which
was tie-wrapped to the stem.

I was a little concerned about getting the bikes on the trains as most of a journey was covered
by Northerm Rail and they do not have the facility to pre-book cycles. So we just had to take a
flyer on it and hope for the best. We teamed up at Barnsley and changed for the Whitehaven
train at Lancaster. This is where we thought we would have difficulty with the trains as there
was another bike wanting to board as well as us (making 3 in total). Up till then we were the
only bikes on all the trains so there had been no isses. But top marks to the train gaurd as he
just asked us where we were getting off (St Bees) so he could get the loading order sorted and
asked us to remove the panniers and he got us all on. In fact he did a lot better than that as
there were loads of bikes getting on/off at various stops along the journey, with the most
being 8 in total and he managed to get them all on/off without fuss. Considering that they are
usually restricted to 2 he did superly well and was a credit to his profession. I should really
have taken a note of his name and sent a letter of recognition to his boss. But given the way
the railways are run, that might have backfired and he would have got a rollocking for letting
too many bikes on. Anyway I told him what a great job he was doing and thanked him for his
efforts. He smiled and said that he was used to it on this line as it happens a lot due to the
C2C. Whoever he was, he was a nice chap and seemed very happy with his job.

We stayed the night at St Bees ready for an early start the next morning.

Day 1 67 miles 5101ft ascent 4622ft decent, max altitude 1145ft at 24.4 miles.

We were camping at st Bees so we left the train there instead of Whitehaven. We were a bit
late up and slow at packing and did not get away until almost 09:00 (we had planned to be away
about 08:00). We decided to get some breakfast in Whitehaven. It was a quite hilly start for
the 4 miles or so from St Bees to Whitehaven. After dipping the rear wheels in the Irish sea in
the traditional manner and the obligatory photos were rode into town to find a cafe. We ordered
2 bacon rolls. The owner saw the bikes and asked what we had planned. On hearing that we were
doing the C2C he gave us extra bacon as he said that we would need the energy (another nice
chap). Nicely fed, we eventually hit the trail in earnest about 10:00, quite a bit later then
we planned. The sun was already blazing down and the temperature was getting up. The wind is
normally a prevailing westerly which is why it is normally done west to east. But today there
was a slight head wind. The first part of the route was not a very nice ride through some
rough looking housing estates. But after about 1/2 an hour we were on some nicely surfaced and
scenic cycle paths. Before long we were passing Loweswater which looked superb in the
sunlight. We then hit the Whinlatter pass. This was really hard given the heat and we had to
walk some of the steepest sections. At the point where you venture off-road into the woods we
stopped for a rest as Duncan was obviously struggling. His knees were hurting and he was
dubious if he could make it (not a good sign so early). After some discussion, he said that he
would be okay if we could lighten his bike a bit. So I took the tent, bed roll, campstove and
pans which reduced his load by 3kg. I was okay with that as I was finding it easy enough so
far. He was also having issues with his chain coming of when changing down to the grannie ring.
We tried some adjustment, but we could either get it to change but the chain coming off, or not
change at all. On closer inspection, it could be seen that the chain was slightly twisted. Hmmm
what to do? Nearest bike shop was Keswick, which was on our route. So we would have to manage
some how until then. However, luckily we passed a bike shop in Whinlatter forest park. The guy
managed to straighten the chain using a couple of open ended spanners and setup the front mech
for us and got it shifting fine again. On hearing that we were on the C2C he wished us luck and
didn't charge us for the repair (another nice chap). We got to our scheduled lunch stop at
Braithwaite at about 13:00. Eggs on toast and tea at the campsite site cafe and back on the
road for 14:00. The very busy Keswick was negotiated and we followed alongside the A66 with
great views of Skiddaw and Blencathra, both of wich I have climbed, the latter via Sharp Edge,
but I never expected then to be cycling past them. Then came a rather lengthy detour via
Mungrisdale to avoid the A66. A simarly busy Penrith was now upon us. We stopped for some tea
and cakes, then completed the last 10 miles to our overnight camp at Newby End Farm. The
campsite was basic, but had 2 good points, it was cheap at £6 pppn and was very close to our
route.

Day 2 57 miles 4116ft ascent 4208ft decent, max altitude 1741ft at 30.0 miles

Earlier start today. We wanted an early start to get most of the slog up Tan Hill done before
it got too hot. Head wind again today and quite a bit stronger. Well at least it will keep us
cooler. Back onto NCN71 just before Kings Maeburn. This is where we (or more precisly I) had a
very nasty momment. I was in the lead going down a steep hill, and as visibility was restricted
due to trees and bends I was keeping my speed low (good job as it transpires). At the bottom
of the hill was a ford. It was a concrete road with about 6 inches of water going over it. I
unclipped and went first at walking pace, just as I shouted a warning to Duncan that it might
be a bit slippery and he should take care, the front wheel shot sideways. Somehow or other I
counter-steered / counter-balanced and managed to stay upright (how I have no idea). I got my
feet down, but the back wheel then started to slide. The water either side of the road was
several feet deep, and I was preparing myself for a dunking. At last everything stopped and I
got off and looked round at my mate who had the most astonished look on his face. We then both
walked gingerly across almost falling over several times. It was only when we were about
halfway across that we saw a footbridge to our left partially obscured by some trees. We sat
down on a conveiniently handy bench and rung out our socks and calmed our (well mostly mine)
nerves. It was then a pleasent ride through leafy lanes to our lunchstop at Kirky Stephen. We
both had the Swiss melt that was bacon, tomato, mushrooms and melted cheese on toast with a pot
of tea. As we had no breakfast, this was just what the doctor ordered. An hour later we are
back on the road heading for the one big climb of the day over Tan Hill. The climbing starts in
earnest at Barras. Some of the steeper sections were walked. After about 1.5 hours of hard
slog, we reach Tan Hill. Here we broke our self imposed alcohol ban during the ride (to avoid
dehaydration) and had a nice, hard earned pint of raspberry cider whilst sitting in the shade
of a rock looking at the stunning views. Very nice it was too. Water bottles replenished, we
set off, for what I assumed, would be a very easy free wheel down the other side of Tan Hill.
Unfortunately our route had us divert off the NCN71 to NCN70 after a very short distance. This
was a rough bridleway that is part of the Pennine Way. So very little returned from all that
climbing as the speeds had to be kept low. We hit tarmac again at Sleightholme Farm. More easy
riding through back lanes and we reached Barnard Castle where we stopped for some tea and cakes
(hmmm coffee cake for me). We then had a bit of backwards and forewards trying to find our
route. What confused me was that the C2C route east was signposted left but my notes said go
straight on. It was only after consulting maps and head scratching that we realised what was
going on. We wanted the NCN165 (W2W), not NCN70 which is the C2C route to Sunderland. Back on
route and within an hour we were turning off towards Ovington for our overnight camp at
Winston. We met a roady out for circular route from his home in Bishop Auckland. He rode with
us and talked until we turned off into our campsite, he wished us well and went on his way.
This campsite was much better and was very good value at the same £6 pppn. Not a very good
nights rest due to heavy traffic on the A67 main road next to the campsite which seemed to have
morphed into the M6, and a family in the next tent being sick all night due to a bug they all
seem to have caught.

Day 3 72 miles 4013ft ascent 3940ft decent, max altitude 813ft at 50 & 57 miles

The weather forecast was for slightly overcast conditions with it clearing about 11:00. We
were up and away 06:30 and away for 07:30 with just cereal bar porridge for breakfast. The
weather forecast was spot on and cooler conditions and a flatish start to the day meant that we
were moving at close to 14 mph average. This I believe contributed to my first and only
navigation error of the whole trip. My notes were correct, but I somehow went left in Neasham
instead of going straight on. Thinking back, I reckon we just read the NCN sign incorrectly.
This took us through the Middletons, Aislaby and eventually to Yarm instead of through Hornby,
Appleton Wiske and Crathorne to our planned lunchstop at Hutton Rudby. I was sure that we had
gone wrong as the villages we were going through were not on my notes but instead of turning
back I stupidly carried on. After some time we stopped and asked some locals who were out
walking their dog. They confirmed that we were a long way from Hornby. So after we got our
bearings and checked the maps we spotted our error. It was at this point we think that my mate
sadly lost his camera. He had some Haribos whilst we were looking at the map. They were in the
same pannier side pocket as his camera and he believes that he took the camera out to get at
them and left it and the back rack, or possibly it just fell out when he pulled the Haribos
out. Either way, when I looked for the camera at Hutton Rudby to take his picture it was
missing. All our pictures of the ride gone. The camera was only worth £30, but the pictures
were priceless. Anyway, we had to go through Yarm which was not a pleasent experience. Very
busy roads instead of the quite ones we should have been on. Plus a lorry driver very nearly
ran me over at a roundabout. I had got out onto the roundabout but Duncan couldn't as he was a
little bit behind me. As a started to turn left off the roundabout, I became aware of a box
lorry on my right that had come straight over the roundabout and was now coming off at the same
exit as me. I was about 2 feet from the edge of the curb. As he left the roundabout, he cut in
slightly to avoid the keep left bollard, and started to squeeze me. It was obvious that if I
didn't take avoiding action I was going to be knocked off so a swerved to the left, but still
he kept squeezing me. So I had to bunny-hopped up the low curb and onto the pavement else I'm
sure he would have hit me. I shouted a few choice words at the driver and was greeted by him
sounding his horn and giving me the finger. Duncan saw the whole incident and reckoned that if
I hadn't jumped onto the curb he would have clipped me. All for the sake of saving 8-10
seconds! I was fuming, so Duncan made me sit down for an eat and drink to calm me down before
with set off again as he thought that it was not good to be cycling with the red mist. Anyway
we had our lunch at Hutton Rudby, and made the discovery of the lost camera. Not the best of
days so far. But oh well, these things happen. So after an hour of sulking about the camera
we set off for the final push. We knew from the route profile that we had a lot of climbing to
do that afternoon. There was one hill somewhere near Commondale that was very steep and very
long with a temporary road surface that was actually melting in the heat. At Aislaby, we saw a
sign proclaiming that it was 6 miles to Whitby. But that was by the main road. The NCN165
turned off right down a rough gravely track through Sleights. After 100 yards or so we turned
back as we thought it was too rough and we also met a tractor that coming the other way that
took up the whole track so had to get out his way. Back at the road we asked a local. He
confirmed that it was the correct way and that it was only a rough track for about a mile or
so. So back we went down it and we were soon back on tarmac. The road was up and down through
the Carrs which was soul destroying as we thought that we must be going down hill soon. Then we
saw a sign showing 1 mile to Whitby, which was then followed by a 20% uphill! We walked up that
cursing why anyone would put a 20% hill on a NCN 1 mile before the end. Evetually we get to
Whitby and after a bit of route finding difficulties we find ourselves at the slipway. We try
to dip our front wheels in the North Sea as per tradition. But the slipway is, well, very
slippery and with the heavy bikes we are in danger of slipping into the sea. So panniers off
and the wheel dip is completed. Handshakes and congratulations are exchanged. It is then back
out of the town to the campsite. I few wrong turns cost us extra effort and time that we
really did not want. But we get the the site, tent erected and us showered and changed for
20:00. Right into town for fish & chips and beer. We decided to get a taxi as we had had
enough of bike riding at that point and also it would mean having to find somewhere safe for
the bikes. Those fish and chips were the best I had tasted. Three pints later we are back to
the campsite for 23:00 and some much needed rest.

The return journey on the trains was no issues as there were no other bikes on the train. The
onlt scare was for me getting back from Barnsley. I had to take a main line express from
Wakefield to Newark. This was run by East Coast which require you to pre-book cycles. This is
had not done as I had assumed that all the trains were Nothern Rail. I was asked if I had
booked the cycle space and told a white lie that I had and flashed my seat reservation. "That's
okay I believe you." he replies and gets the cargo carraige open. Space for 3 bikes and only
one space taken. He radios through to Newark and the door is open as soon as I get off the
train. Got home about 21:00 and went to my mates birthday party down the local for more beer.

My bike was faultless. Duncans bike was a bit tempremental with the front mech until it was
fixed for us. Neither of us got a p***ture. The rough tracks cut my race lite hardcase tyres in
a few places, but this was easily fixed with some rubber solution. My fingers are still a bit
numb. Duncans kness were a bit sore for a day or so. But the guy did superb for someone who has
never done any long distance riding before. He was well chuffed with doing it and said that he
could never have done it without me.

I have the bug now. I want to do more long distance tours. Maybe the Rhine tour. I certainly
want to do JOGLE. I will probably have to do that one alone as it is too far for Duncan. I
reckon I could do it over 2 weeks.
 

theloafer

Legendary Member
Location
newton aycliffe
great write up this is on my to do list.:thumbsup: have done LEJOGS twice going for the third next year but JOGLE its a great trip you will enjoy it ,I am sure your mate Duncan would be able to do it also just take it easy (its not a race)^_^
 

videoman

Guru
Location
Staffordshire
Great write up and I walked the C2C three years ago starting from St Bees. This is a trip I would like to do along with JOGLE, perhaps one day.
 

lowrider73

Well-Known Member
Enjoyed reading your trip report, shame about the missing photos. Yes, Yarm is a busy town high street. I've recently did a couple of camping trips in the area of Hornby and Ingleby Cross, mountain bike loaded up and was really good to get them two wheels buzzing again. I had plans to do the double C2C in September, but this is now shelved until 2015, that I'm walking the C2C again.
 

ross basham

Well-Known Member
Hi Gixxerman,

I understand that this is quite an old thread but your route matches the one I am taking next weekend and wanted to get some advice please. My brother and I are cycling from Whitehaven to Scarborough. We have 3-4 days, are pretty keen and fit cyclists, and will be riding on hartdtails with panniers and tent etc.

We are looking for a mix of road, trail and bridleway etc. Due to the weight on the bikes and the time we have we understand we can not do a full mtb trail route, but we also don't want to do a fast road route all the time as we want to explore the best the Lakes, Dales and Moors have to offer.

Suggestions for a route or even some must-do cycle stretches, villages and view points en-route will be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Ross.
 
Top Bottom