cable wear?

[Rob3rt]

yup, I'm on tiagra too. perhaps this is the downfall of the shifters. Defo will avoid anything fancy on the cable front if the shifter is going to eat it.



I was quoted £100 for the Gore ride on set plus £20 to fit. I've seen the for £70 online but I don't have the time to order then fit myself as I need to get back on the Bike ASAP.

I guess this is a moot point given the reply above though.

I had a Tiagra groupset for 3 years and never changed the cables. I don't think it is the shifter unless you have a sketchy one.

I takes about 15-20 mins to fit some cables and index the gears.

TBH though, any good cable set will do, Gore are good, but I am not sure the price is 100% justified, I only used them as I felt like a bit of a cheapskate using lesser cables with a brand new top level groupset. In for a penny, in for a pound.

 

[jonny jeez]

If you do end up having to single speed it due to a broken cable, you can use your derailler end-point adjusters to force a particular gear rather than top.

Arise Sir Mikey of Bentedness, you shall forever more be forgiven for riding such a daft device as that bent of yours!!

Excellent bit of advice and the cause of one of the best rides I've had in ages. Strava (not that I indulge in such daftness) tells me I recorded over 20kph up Bromley hill with an average speed across the entire ride that I not ashamed of either, given I spent a good third of the ride chatting to my ride buddy in the bus lanes.

perhaps a single speed could work for me!! after all you have no option other than to get it up to 30kph and just keep,it rolling.

couldn't of done it without your advice and sticking the chain in the middle of the cassette.I had no idea the stop limits had such a wide effect, I kind of assumed they just worked at the extremes of the cassette.

Cycle chat is awesome!

 

[jonny jeez]

I had a Tiagra groupset for 3 years and never changed the cables. I don't think it is the shifter unless you have a sketchy one.

I takes about 15-20 mins to fit some cables and index the gears.
.

Bugger, Didn't want to hear that really. Think I play it cautious and just opt for a good shimano outer and inner *edit* what sort of mileage/stop starting do you generally get, I'm clocking a good 80-120 miles a week plus the odd weekend stuff

I swapped my last set in about an hour (my first attempt) and found it quite straight forward once I realised that the cable was the problem. As I need to take the motorbike tomorrow its an ideal time to leave it to the LBS.

not usually my style.

 

[fossyant]

Getting crap onto the bare cables can drag it into the outers causing the shifting or braking issues.keep them clean and lube the cable near where it enters the outer.

 

[recumbentpanda]

Cable problems are unlikely to be the fault of the shifters, unless the cable guide where the cable enters the shifter housing is somehow damaged.

I can't remember where I read it, but apparently the science of what makes Bowden cables (the technical name for the 'metal string in a bendy tube' things we use on bikes) wear and stick is very unclear. Some will be temperamental, others last half a lifetime without complaint. Luck of the draw.

There are however, some basic points to keeping luck on your side: On bikes we run Bowden cables round much tighter curves than they are really meant to cope with. Anything you can do to ease the curves when routing and installing cables will help ensure a longer life. Also ensure neither the cables or outers get 'kinked' during installation.

Some cable layouts make it easy for water to get in, trickle down inside the cable outer and stay there - not good news. Mixte frames where the rear brake cable runs up to the brake caliper from below are bad for this - watch out for similar points on your bike. A squirt of GT or similar penetrating oil through a fine nozzle can help in wet weather.

Make sure the ferrules, the little metal end-caps and sockets where the outer goes into shifter, mech or brake lever, are all correctly seated and not chafing or bending the cable due to not being properly fitted in place. This will cause the cable inner to wear through and break quite quickly.

When cutting outers to length, make sure the spiral metal tube is cut off flat and clean at the end. If it is not, 'spongy' action can result because the outer can't seat solidly in the ferrule and moves about when you apply pressure to the lever. Also, any sharp end that curls the wrong way can saw through the cable inner pretty quick.

Alternatively, as the OP suggests leave all that to the bike-shop . . . but can you be sure they are doing it right? :-)

 

[BentMikey]

Arise Sir Mikey of Bentedness, you shall forever more be forgiven for riding such a daft device as that bent of yours!!

Thank you, but I can't take the credit. That's advice from some old school audax cyclists that I'm just passing forwards. They're the real hard core of cycling, and the font of knowledge for the rest of us, usually.

 

[BentMikey]

I always grease my cables when I clean the bike.
Bit of grease or lube in fingers and run along exposed cables.
Help's them last. Or I like to think so anyway.

I bet your cables are in fine condition! Still, I can't help preferring those Gore ride on cables. Once you've used some it's very hard to go back. Not only is there no oiling to be done at all, but they shift and brake so incredibly smoothly and last for years.

 

[ianrauk]

I bet your cables are in fine condition! Still, I can't help preferring those Gore ride on cables. Once you've used some it's very hard to go back. Not only is there no oiling to be done at all, but they shift and brake so incredibly smoothly and last for years.

For sure I can imagine their the mutts nut's Mike. But blimey...they are expensive. Probably worth it though in the long run.

Edit: Actually, one could get either set, brakes or gears with inners, outers etc for £43.
Hmmm.....

 

[jonny jeez]

Well, I had a reprieve last night and found myself with a few spare hours. Picked up a relatively cheap inner and outer and swapped them myself. Much more satisfying that leaving it to the LBS. I figured the most recent cable snap must have been down to the fact that I didn't bother to swap the outers last time...foolboy!

Also treated Nubike to a bloody good clean and pulled enough sand out of her to fill a beach.

Fitted some new supplementary lights (trying out some Tacx lumos thingies) and was all set for a ride in today.

Then I woke to see the rain and thought, bugger that. Shall clock up some miles tomorrow riding to the V&A in the morning with a friend....in the sun.

Have decided that Mikey is right and shall replace all the cables, gradually, for the gore's. for now though, I'm totally geared up!

Thanks all for the advice, as ever

Edit, if any local bods fancy joining us then we' be at the tap for 9.20!, a21 to Knightsbridge then Clapham, crystal palace, west wick ham and home for lunch

 

[400bhp]

GT85

After a wet ride: wipe bike down, spray on gt85 and leave.

 

[Mo1959]

I always grease my cables when I clean the bike.
Bit of grease or lube in fingers and run along exposed cables.
Help's them last. Or I like to think so anyway.

Ahh, was just about to ask if I could put oil or grease on them. Thanks.

 

[goo_mason]

My Tiagra rear shifter eats cables too - always shred in the same place in the shifter body, so I suspect there's a rough edge in there. I think I've gone through 5 or 6 in almost 4 years. One day I'll get round to dismantling it to get a decent look and see if I can file it down....

 

[jonny jeez]

My Tiagra rear shifter eats cables too - always shred in the same place in the shifter body, so I suspect there's a rough edge in there. I think I've gone through 5 or 6 in almost 4 years. One day I'll get round to dismantling it to get a decent look and see if I can file it down....

Exactly the same spot, Had to wind the shredded part out by pumping the shifter.

twice now.

How odd, other than that they are pretty faultless