Campagnol - Bad shifting on second hand Wilier

[Danielaaron94]

SO. I have a Wilier Gran Turismo (2010) that I bought second hand from a Wilier dealer last year. It worked flawlessly at that time.

I started having some shifting issues recently, none horrible or unrideable. the most noticeable issue was that it was sticking in 3/4/5 when trying to shift up. So I decided to swap out the chain with a new Campagnolo 10 speed, waxed. Chain swap went fine, matched with old chain and measure for fit.

Now, I cannot get the rear derailleur adjusted well at all. It shifts a lot worse than before, either sticking in gears or skipping over. I can get it to shift really well up and bad down, or really well down and bad up, but there does not seem to be a middle ground.

I am no bike mechanic, and unfortunately do not live near one. I did some research and ran through the rear derailleur install a few times and just cant get it to shift well.

I am starting to think that maybe its just a little worn out given its age? Can I install a new derailleur on this dated bike? Thanks

 

[Yellow Saddle]

I doubt you will relturn to read this but one lives in hope.

Firstly, worn out gears do not affect shifting. Tooth profile has NOTHING to do with lateral derailere movement. Niks, nada, ziltch.

Secondly, shifting issues are always a function of:
1) High cable friction (old crappy cables)
2) Poor adjustment regime.
3) bent derailer hanger.

The above is subject to all parts fitted being compatible of cours.e

An experienced mechanic will look at all theses factors.
No amount of guessing from fellow members will deliver an aha moment. Stick to the basics.

 

[Pblakeney]

First thing I'd be looking at is replacing the cable. For two reasons.
1. That is usually the culprit. The area inside the hood gets frayed and affects shifting. Eventually snapping, then it becomes a bigger issue to remove.
2. They are cheap, if you shop around.

 

[oldandslow]

But is it adjusted correctly (with the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur), so that each shift lines the derailleur up correctly with one of the ten sprockets? Easiest way is to look in a middle gear, and make sure that the chain is going down exactly vertically from sprocket to top derailleur pulley. I can't tell from your original post whether or not you know how to do this although, if you've changed a chain, you probably would know?

 

[Wheelspinner]

Worth noting that Campag 10 speed and older actually has cassette spacers between cogs that are not all equal thickness. If you removed the cassette for cleaning and have reassembled it with spacers in the wrong order, your shifting will suffer.

 

[accountantpete]

It's been a few years since I dabbled with Campag stuff but from memory the first thing to check (apart from the obvious stuff ) is the Shifter.

Around this time they made some awful changes to the design of the shifter and that resulted in a lot of problems down the line when things became worn.

The easiest way to check is to undo the cable at the rear mech - then tension the cable by hand and click through all the gears upand down.

(ps -also make sure cable is re-attached to rear mech correctly for that particular model. It can go under or over the bolt and one of them will result in incorrect shifting))

 

[fossyant]

Yellow Saddle has it covered. Cables first, and use decent Campag or high end Jagwire.

 

[Danielaaron94]

I doubt you will relturn to read this but one lives in hope.

Firstly, worn out gears do not affect shifting. Tooth profile has NOTHING to do with lateral derailere movement. Niks, nada, ziltch.

Secondly, shifting issues are always a function of:
1) High cable friction (old crappy cables)
2) Poor adjustment regime.
3) bent derailer hanger.

The above is subject to all parts fitted being compatible of cours.e

An experienced mechanic will look at all theses factors.
No amount of guessing from fellow members will deliver an aha moment. Stick to the basics.

I am here to restore your faith.

I appreciate your feedback. I watched a proper video, since all the Campag videos seemed to skip over the finer details of adjusting. Afterwards, I got it to shift decently, at least well enough to ride, but still experiencing intermittent indexing issues around the middle of the cassette, which is frustrating because It shifts quite nicely otherwise (in the highest and lowest).

So i decided to install new cables next. Since the bike is 15 years old I expect this to make some improvement.

Here’s the adjustment video that proved most helpful
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YZz_opPtLL0&t=61s&pp=2AE9kAIB

 

[fossyant]

New cables are like night and day, especially on 10 speed and above systems.

 

[Danielaaron94]

It's been a few years since I dabbled with Campag stuff but from memory the first thing to check (apart from the obvious stuff ) is the Shifter.

Around this time they made some awful changes to the design of the shifter and that resulted in a lot of problems down the line when things became worn.

The easiest way to check is to undo the cable at the rear mech - then tension the cable by hand and click through all the gears upand down.

(ps -also make sure cable is re-attached to rear mech correctly for that particular model. It can go under or over the bolt and one of them will result in incorrect shifting))

I believe the changes made to the shifters occurred around 2012 If I am not mistaken? Anyways, im going to replace the cables, so ill be able to take a look then.

 

[Danielaaron94]

Worth noting that Campag 10 speed and older actually has cassette spacers between cogs that are not all equal thickness. If you removed the cassette for cleaning and have reassembled it with spacers in the wrong order, your shifting will suffer.

I have never disassembled myself, hopefully the shop got it right. It came from a wilier dealer in Italy, I am just assuming they knew knew this

 

[Danielaaron94]

But is it adjusted correctly (with the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur), so that each shift lines the derailleur up correctly with one of the ten sprockets? Easiest way is to look in a middle gear, and make sure that the chain is going down exactly vertically from sprocket to top derailleur pulley. I can't tell from your original post whether or not you know how to do this although, if you've changed a chain, you probably would know?

Thanks for sharing. I watched a hand full of detailed videos and ran through the complete adjustment process a few times. It now shifts well in the highest and lowest cogs, but still has trouble in the middle of the cassette, sticking in the middle cogs. I am going to install new cables and re-asses.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Besides new rear cable, inner and outer, worth giving the RH ergo and good dousing with GT85 or similar.
You have not mentioned that you've ensured the hanger is vertical, as @Yellow Saddle recommended.
What is the model of the rear derailleur and the ergos? Any model numbers for the bonus mark.

Was the advice on the chain suck any use?
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/inner-chainring-rubbed-on-frame-but-its-not-close.303025/

 

[Danielaaron94]

Besides new rear cable, inner and outer, worth giving the RH ergo and good dousing with GT85 or similar.
You have not mentioned that you've ensured the hanger is vertical, as @Yellow Saddle recommended.
What is the model of the rear derailleur and the ergos? Any model numbers for the bonus mark.

Was the advice on the chain suck any use?
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/inner-chainring-rubbed-on-frame-but-its-not-close.303025/

The hanger is vertical and visually looks just fine, I don’t have any tools to ensure precise spec, but I don’t think a bent hanger is the issue.

Thanks