Help me diagnose some bad 9 speed shifting (Sora 9 Speed Road Groupset)

[Boopop]

My trusty 2012 Btwin Triban 3 is poorly. I can't get it to shift in to the big cog or the little cog on the cassette at the back without playing with the barrel adjuster in between (Shimano Sora 9sp R3000, Double chainset). Things I have tried to resolve this include:

• Checked that the wheel is seated in the frame straight.
• Used my Park Tools DAG tool to check horizontal and vertical hanger alignment.
• Replaced the inner gear cable.
• Replaced the outer gear cable near the mech. Downshifting feels very free and easy on the shifter.
• Played with limit screws.
• At my wit's end, played with B screw.

If I tension the cable such that I can get in the big cog but not the smallest, when I'm upshifting it's as if one of the upshifts just goes missing and doesn't do anything, or at least very little.

I've been eyeing up Wheeltop's new wireless road groupset for under £500, and I can't be bothered buying another Sora shifter if I'm only going to use it another 6 months.

Is my shifter dead? Is this something that can happen on Sora 9 speed shifters? There's currently a faulty one on eBay for parts that seems to have a similar issue. Cheers!

 

[fossyant]

SP41 cable is the best for STI's.

 

[Boopop]

SP41 cable is the best for STI's.

I've got a box of inner/outer gear/brake wholesale cable that I've used for years, and they've always worked with this groupset before...suddenly not. Thanks though.

 

[Ian H]

First thing to do - put the bike on a stand and click through the gear range (whilst turning the pedals) checking what happens with each click.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Describe your technique from when you’ve threaded the inner cable till you throw your hands up in despair.

 

[Big John]

Firstly, I feel your pain. Nothing worse than trying everything and still it doesn't work. When was it working properly? When it started to go wrong had you done some work on the bike or had something happened to the bike?

 

[Boopop]

First thing to do - put the bike on a stand and click through the gear range (whilst turning the pedals) checking what happens with each click.

Tried that - it's what I've been doing last night and then again tonight after today's rather frustrating commute to and from work.

Describe your technique from when you’ve threaded the inner cable till you throw your hands up in despair.

Let's see...

1. Make sure barrel adjuster is all the way clockwise it will go (looking at it from the back towards the front of the bike).
2. Try shifting up the cassette towards the big cogs
3. "Oh, it won't shift to that bigger cog" - turn barrel adjuster clockwise until it will.
4. Repeat step 3 until the chain is on the biggest cog.
5. "Oh, now it won't shift on to the smallest cog".
6. Repeat step 3 in reverse until I'm back at the smallest cog.
7. Repeat steps 3 through to 6 for a few minutes until I can tell something's wrong.
8. Can it be limit screws? Nope, when the barrel adjuster is in a certain position, it will go to the cogs at either end.
9. Break out the mech hanger bender - mech hanger is aligned correctly.
10. Play with mysterious B screw in desperation, makes no difference.
11. Maybe the cable wasn't clamped tight enough? Nope, not that.
12. Listen to the birds around my garage while looking at my phone.
13. Consider banging my head against the wall.

 

[Boopop]

Firstly, I feel your pain. Nothing worse than trying everything and still it doesn't work. When was it working properly? When it started to go wrong had you done some work on the bike or had something happened to the bike?

I think in the last week or so. The first thing I did was replace the inner cable - close to the mech it was a bit rusty, fair enough...I assumed after replacing that everything would be smooth sailing. The shifter itself doesn't appear to be fouled up but I think it's the culprit.

I've also got a very nice Orbea Orca with SRAM AXS eTap groupset, after spending the BH weekend riding that with its perfect shifting, this is proving to be quite the contrast!

 

[Aristotle Kristatos]

Outer gear gable will be grooved inside so fitting the new inner cable will be fruitless.
Replace all outer gear cable not just part of the system and I'm guessing that will solve the problem.
Assuming it's correctly set up ...

 

[Ming the Merciless]

In those steps I don’t see you clamping the cable or shifting to biggest gear before you start.

At what point do you ensure shifter is in right gear before clamping cable?
What do you do with the limit screws before clamping cable?

 

[Boopop]

In those steps I don’t see you clamping the cable or shifting to biggest gear before you start.

At what point do you ensure shifter is in right gear before clamping cable?
What do you do with the limit screws before clamping cable?

Oh, yes I make sure the chain is in the smallest cog before clamping the cable. Also make sure the shifter is in the same spot too. I don't do anything with the limit screws because they were fine to begin with, and if I can get the chain in to the biggest and smallest cogs by adjusting the barrel adjuster after the cable is clamped, that shows that it's not the limit screws.

Outer gear gable will be grooved inside so fitting the new inner cable will be fruitless.
Replace all outer gear cable not just part of the system and I'm guessing that will solve the problem.
Assuming it's correctly set up ...

I wish I agreed with you but given how easy it is to manipulate the big gear lever when I down shift, I'm not convinced there's any friction in the outer gear cable under the bar tape.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Is my shifter dead? Is this something that can happen on Sora 9 speed shifters?

The first thing I did was replace the inner cable - close to the mech it was a bit rusty,

First and second Q: Probably not and not really.
Unclamp cable. Unscrew limit screws a turn. Manipulate the RD by hand - does it reach out far enough to sit over the small sprocket? Pushing it towards spokes, does it touch the spokes (what's stopping it?)? Same but does it sit above the largest sprocket.
If that's all fine then it's not the RD.
With the cable unclamped but held with bit of tension, click down the STI. Now click back up. 8 clicks? All good. Less? Squirt douse with GT85/WD40 and manipulate. Repeat.
The other possibility is that the outer cable/ferrule as it enters the STI (via under the bar run) has displaced and is causing friction. Not easy to check without removing bar tape that side.

 

[Ian H]

When testing did you check that each click changed a gear? Did you count the clicks at the lever? Have you checked that the rear mech is moving freely across its full range?

 

[Smokin Joe]

If this happened after replacing the inner cable I would suggest you ran the new cable to the wrong side of the clamp. It should go wheelside.

Getting it the wrong way round will give you exactly what you've got.

 

[Boopop]

If this happened after replacing the inner cable I would suggest you ran the new cable to the wrong side of the clamp. It should go wheelside.

Getting it the wrong way round will give you exactly what you've got.

Not entirely sure what you mean here but I'll take a look.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, you've put me off dropping £450 on an unknown chinese groupset for now...I'll take another look tomorrow evening (the third night in a row 🫠). Given that my next step if I can't get it working is to buy a whole new groupset, I guess I may as well remove the bar tape tomorrow evening and try replacing the outer gear cable there too to see if that helps.

Cheers!