Car D.I.Y.

[Pinno718]

Soz.

 

[Hicky]

Indicator replaced on the XC70, youngest son didn't get the apprenticeship with Volvo sadly(drat!) however he's got an interview with Toyota soon. In the meantime he's plodding along in college(just started he's 16)...hopefully I'll not have to pay someone to do the harder things soon enough.

 

[Pinno718]

Indicator replaced on the XC70, youngest son didn't get the apprenticeship with Volvo sadly(drat!) however he's got an interview with Toyota soon. In the meantime he's plodding along in college(just started he's 16)...hopefully I'll not have to pay someone to do the harder things soon enough.

I would rather work for Honda than Volvo.
Spent 6 miserable months at Volvo.

Job x: Book time 2hrs. Job takes 1 hr 30 mins. Charge customer 2 hrs. Same job x; takes 3 hours, charge customer 3 hrs.

 

[Drago]

Thats how they make their money. If the techie can beat book time the dealer makes more cash by being able to sell more time, and (depending on the set up) the tech earns bonus.

 

[CXRAndy]

I would rather work for Honda than Volvo.
Spent 6 miserable months at Volvo.

Job x: Book time 2hrs. Job takes 1 hr 30 mins. Charge customer 2 hrs. Same job x; takes 3 hours, charge customer 3 hrs.

That's business.

The manufacturer will lower book time if there is consistent quicker repair times. Means the dealer has to keep up with training for mechanics to be able to complete tasks in accordance with book time

 

[Jameshow]

There are downsides:

The main downsides of stop leak treatments are their temporary nature, potential to clog critical components like radiators and oil passages, and the risk of causing new or worse leaks by damaging or swelling other seals. While they may offer a short-term fix, they are not a substitute for proper repairs and can lead to more expensive damage and reduced system efficiency.

Specific Downsides:

• Clogging:
  Stop leak additives can solidify and clog internal passages in radiators, heater cores, and oil systems, which can cause overheating, reduce component function, and require costly replacement.
• Temporary Fix:
  These products offer only a temporary solution; they do not permanently repair the cause of the leak.
• Swelling and Damage:
  While intended to swell seals to stop leaks, the chemicals can cause other seals and gaskets to swell as well, potentially creating new leaks or leading to faster wear and tear.
• Contamination:
  Additives can form sludge or deposits within the engine or cooling system, reducing the effectiveness of other fluids and potentially damaging engine components.
• Incompatibility:
  Stop leak treatments may not be compatible with all types of system components or fluids, leading to unexpected problems.
  
  Reduced Performance:
  By clogging components and creating sludge, stop leak treatments can hinder the overall performance and reliability of the engine and its related systems.
  

Agreed but on a 15yo 150k+ mile car it's worth a punt for another year of motoring?

Same with Rad weld etc.

 

[Pinno718]

Agreed but on a 15yo 150k+ mile car it's worth a punt for another year of motoring?

Same with Rad weld etc.

Why not.
Where's it leaking from?

 

[Fastpedaller]

Here's a weird puzzle for car DIY. I fitted a front dash cam to my Wife's car (ka+) and my kit car, and both dash cams have been working ok for over a year. On both cars I hard-wired the supply via an aftermarket transformer powered from an ignition activated fuse on the fusebox. The one in the Ka+ started giving problems a couple of weeks ago - it kept turning off and on, and it seemed as though it wasn't getting the electrical feed via the mini USB connector. It will only continue a few seconds using its internal battery, hence the turning on and off, although it has enough juice (if left unused for a long period) to retain the date and time settings. I unplugged the dash cam in the ka+ and replaced it with the one from my kit car, but the problem was still there, so I switched them back again. If using a 'plug in the accessory 12v' feed to the mini usb, the dashcam works as expected. So, we have a short-term fix. I checked the feed from the fuse box with a multi-meter, and it's correct, so my initial though was the transformer (12V to 5V had fried itself).
Now here's the real puzzler...........
Last week the dash cam in the kit car stopped working! I haven't had a chance to check the supply with the meter, but since I previously used the car (the dash cam was working ok at the time) I'd removed the battery and put it on smart-charge in the garage. Similar problem, and again if It's powered from the accessory plug it works ok. The only (weird and obscure) reason I can think is if both transformers have failed due to high ambient temperature within the cars during the recent heatwave. Anyone got any other ideas? ETA I'll get the multi-meter on the fuse box of the kit car to ensure there is a feed when I'm next able to stop fixing the Wife's car problems.

A delayed update.......... I've fitted a new 'power unit' to the Ka and the dash cam has now been working ok for over a week. Another 'power unit' has arrived and will be fitted to the kit car. I expect the outcome to be the same.

 

[november4]

It ain't leaking no more, happy days but will keep an eye on it of course, was worried it was expensive main seal. Honda did clutch a few years ago, don't know if that's in protocol, but anyway it's worked, worth the share.