Car D.I.Y.

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Badger_Boom

Über Member
Location
York
I changed my auxillary belt up post....I still have an occasional, sometimes persistent squeal :wacko:
Things to consider....
It's not there all the time, it seems to be in the belt/ pulley area.
There is no power steering pump, electric rack.
I've sprayed some WD40 in the tension pulley bearing area, doesn't seem to make any difference.
I've sprayed the belt, doesn't make any difference if its squealing.
When I stop the engine, I usually get a quick 'chirp'

Strangely, if I turn the steering wheel slightly...the squeal stops, but comes back as I straighten up. But I have an electric rack, no power steering pump running off the belt.

Air con...seems to work ok, compressor clutch therefore assumed to be ok.

Brakes ? Mine does have audible warning plates on the pads and I know the pads are getting low...but the squeal is sometimes there when I'm static. Brake backplates discounted for the same reason.

Gearbox is a known issue on some Astras, mine doesn't have the notorious one and my shifting is smooth as ever.

Water pump ? Why would it stop squealing when I turn the wheel if it were the pump ?

Belt is coming off again in the next few days, will probably clean up the pulleys thoroughly in case they've become glazed or dirty. Cant see why alignment of pulleys should be a problem, nothings been moved or changed (other than the belts of course)

Somewhat annoying eh ?

I do need to consider it might be the tensioner losing tension with age, rather than the tensioner bearings.
It sounds like the bearing in the tensioner pulley might be on the way out.
 
@gbb binding brake pads from electric handbrake or possible play in the bushes on the wheels?
 
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gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
It sounds like the bearing in the tensioner pulley might be on the way out.

I did spin the pulley when I changed the belt, no detectable play.
@gbb binding brake pads from electric handbrake or possible play in the bushes on the wheels?
Pads are always worth considering but sometimes I have the squeal when the car is stood still.

Day off today waiting for a delivery, itchy feet, let's get at it.
Belt back off, inspect...hmmm, some slight damage to one of the ribs, I did notice similar on the original.
Check water pump, all feels good.
Check alternator, ditto.
Aircon compressor, ditto.
All pulleys wire brushed on the running surfaces, cleaned with solvent cleaner, no play, nothing.
Spinning the last pulley I was cleaning...what's that ?, a tiny stone or something wedged in one of the vees. Picked out, that would probably have caused the slight belt damage.

There was some tarnish or surface wear to the tension pulley, gave that a thoroughly good clean, much better.
Quick drive, no squeal...too early yet though but nice to find something at least and also to know that all the other ancillaries feel fine.

Off to shops, once the engines warm....squeal :laugh:
Ah well...I will revisit it :okay:
 
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MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
New discs and pads for the Disco to be fitted. May attempt today........ /Checks for torx impact bit.... yep got it. Because you just no that`s going to be your Nemesis !
 

cosmicbike

Perhaps This One.....
Moderator
Location
Egham
The trusty brick refused to spray water on the windscreen on the way home from work this morning. To be honest I've kept the washer pump limping along since Winter, so new one on order to spoil the old girl!
 

keithmac

Guru
For those who may have some pearls of wisdom.

Things I have done yesterday & today.

Removed the air temp sender, connected to multimeter, warmed it up with a hairdryer the resistance changed, tried the air temp sender in front of the MAF where it is as stock & also after MAF where I am running it, the readings were consistent in both positions with the engine running.
MAF, ran the engine at 1k, 1.5k, 2k, 2,5k & 3k & took the voltage at each step, plotted them on a graph & got an almost perfect straight line, which should indicate it's working as expected.
TPS, connected multimeter & then as the TPS was opened it was a steady increase in resistance & decrease as it was closed, tapping it gently at any given point doesn't make any difference.
Water temperature sender, as the water got hotter the voltage decreased, if the connector is removed the engine note changes & switches on the fan if the engine gets hot is also switches on the fan.
Fitted a new Lambda, even though I'm convinced there was nothing wrong with the last one, checked the wiring multiple times, I'm sure it's wired correctly
I've also continuity tested all the wires from the senders back to the ECU, I am now at my wits end, I have no further thoughts, I'm going to see the guy to who I've taken my carburettor cars to , he has a dyno etc. he works on programmable ECU's but as this is a sealed ECU I'm not sure he will be able to do anything.

Mix 20% Methanol in the tank for the retest..
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
Failed at replacing front brake pads this afternoon....why ?
Poor planning ( failed to make sure I had everything I thought I had). Went to push the caliper piston back in....bugger where are my big water pump pliers :eek:. Bugger, they're at work (I'd taken them in a few weeks ago) Sods llaw, been in my home toolbox for an eternity.
Ah well...put everything back together.

Am I reaching the cusp of the point where a car starts to cost you money ? 70k miles and 6 years old, barely cost me a bean since i brought it at 8k miles. Got a squeal I havnt fixed yet, brakes ready for doing, generally it could do with a deep service, fluids replaced, that kind of thing, it's ok but you know that things are going to start wearing / failing as the miles rack up.
 

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
Filled up today. Economy on the XC90 always improves in the warm weather, but im up pretty much 5mpg. I can only presume that the swirl flap repair I bodged skillfully deployed is working well.
Pretty much the case for me. Steady driver in a 1.6 petrol Astra, struggle to make 45mpg in the winter, now averaging 50 /51 mpg
 

Badger_Boom

Über Member
Location
York
Failed at replacing front brake pads this afternoon....why ?
Poor planning ( failed to make sure I had everything I thought I had). Went to push the caliper piston back in....bugger where are my big water pump pliers :eek:. Bugger, they're at work (I'd taken them in a few weeks ago) Sods llaw, been in my home toolbox for an eternity.
Ah well...put everything back together.

I had a similar experience doing mine the other week. I did the first side and discovered that the ratchet clamp I had with me wasn’t up to the job. The quickest solution was a 1.5 mile round trip on foot to Screwfix for their cheapest 6in G-clamp.
 
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gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
I had a similar experience doing mine the other week. I did the first side and discovered that the ratchet clamp I had with me wasn’t up to the job. The quickest solution was a 1.5 mile round trip on foot to Screwfix for their cheapest 6in G-clamp.
Yep, G clamps occured to me, scoured my home toolkit, to realise...they're at work too :sad:
 
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OP
Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
Am I reaching the cusp of the point where a car starts to cost you money ? 70k miles and 6 years old, barely cost me a bean since i brought it at 8k miles. Got a squeal I havnt fixed yet, brakes ready for doing, generally it could do with a deep service, fluids replaced, that kind of thing, it's ok but you know that things are going to start wearing / failing as the miles rack up.
During low moments I think the same way, but I then remind myself that the cost of repairs over the last year have still not added up to half of a single months loan repayment on a new one. Probably not even a quarter.

So while it can be a ballache with an older vehicle it is rarely financually advantageous to start anew.
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
New discs and pads for the Disco to be fitted. May attempt today........ /Checks for torx impact bit.... yep got it. Because you just no that`s going to be your Nemesis !
Just to add to this. I did these last night but once again after jacking and preparing , thinking Ive got everything I need. I find that I need a 21mm bi hex socket for the carrier and breaker bar. As these buggers are torqued to 275Nm !!! Oh and I couldn’t find the brake caliper rewind kit either !! So out with the G clamp and the old pad to wind the pistons back in. Ive getting too old for crawling about the ground …..
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
During low moments I think the same way, but I then remind myself that the cost of repairs over the last year have still not added up to half of a single months loan repayment on a new one. Probably not even a quarter.

So while it can be a ballache with an older vehicle it is rarely financually advantageous to start anew.

What's this about 'repairs' ? 19 year old Nissan and the only things it's had in the last two years is oil change, new tyres and an exhaust - the exhaust only lasted 19 years ! :laugh: Outrageous
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
That said, my son keeps breaking his car. He's moved over most of the various pipes from his 'knackered' engine to the replacement. He's just had delivered an engine hoist - he had planned to get the car to his friend's workshop, but that's in Buxton, 20 miles away, and the car has no 'front' so can't exactly be towed onto a trailer. I suggested the cost of a hoist would be cheaper than transport and travel to Buxton. Hoist and engine 'mount' was less than £200.
 
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