Car D.I.Y.

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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Just spray a small amount of brake clean on the rubber boot gasket. This allows the boot to slide around the piston as it winds back in
Sometimes the boot wants to twist instead of sliding

I usually give the lot a good clean and spray. Handy thing with MrsF's rear brakes is they don't need the piston winding as the handbrake is on a separate drum, so they just push straight back in. I'll be undercoating the suspension components whilst I'm at it.

Just been back out and changed the air filter - wow, got to be the easiest design ever - pop two top clips, and the the air filter comes out in a plastic carrier. Replace and slide back in.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Tidy engine bay for a 13 year old car on nearly 80k.
20260228_163708.jpg
 
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wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Just spray a small amount of brake clean on the rubber boot gasket. This allows the boot to slide around the piston as it winds back in
Sometimes the boot wants to twist instead of sliding

Is brake cleaner not likely to attack the rubber? Surely an actual lubricant would be a much better idea...
 

Pinno718

Über Member
Location
Way out West
Key points regarding brake cleaner and seals:
  • Material Sensitivity: Brake cleaner can dissolve or degrade rubber and plastic materials.
  • Swelling/Damage: It may cause O-rings (like those on motorcycle chains) to dry out, swell, or disintegrate.
  • Proper Use: Use it for cleaning metal parts and, if necessary, wipe down rubber components quickly rather than spraying them directly.
  • Alternatives: For cleaning rubber parts, mild soap and water or specialized rubber-safe cleaners are safer options.

    Bottom Line: Keep brake cleaner away from rubber seals and O-rings to avoid premature failure.
 
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Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
The Wurth stuff is supposed to be the varsity, works superbly. Was given a box of a dozen Mannil ones so have been using them up.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Is brake cleaner not likely to attack the rubber? Surely an actual lubricant would be a much better idea...
Generally not. Its the likes of WD40 which can destroy the rubber boots. Ultimately it depends on the type of material used. I've gone from using ceramic lubrication on brake rebuilds on the caliper slide pins. Allegedly the rubber can swell and split. I use another synthetic lubricant which doesn't attack the rubber bits

My calipers now have bright purple on metal bits and orange on the rubber contact area.

Permatex lubricants
 
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Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
I use proper moly based guide pin lube.

And today's I've adjusted the washer jets on the van. Theyre fan jets intended for a Passat, but theyre a straight swap and a perfect firm for the cut outs under the transporter bonnet. Had them on a while but decided to lower the aim a touch.
 

Tom B

Guru
Location
Lancashire
Annoyingly we have two cars, both with MOTs due the same week! I keep meaning to re-do one in september to split them, but keep forgetting!

Anyway, this week, fettled missus Bs 'onda jizz, needed an service and the washer gets sorting as the jets had gone limp.

Oil and filter service fettled without issue - albeit when i came back with the parts she then chose to mention it had been knocking, found a split track rod end and had another trip to the factors!

All that sorted I set about the washers, decided it was likely a filter issue in the bottle, so stripped it out including getting soaked only to find the filter was fine and the issue was a trapped pipe in the scuttle, likely never seated quite right since being built in 2012.

Set about giving the brakes a strip and grease only to find the rear needed pads, so had bike ride to the brake parts shop - remembering my father asked me to do his rear pads too - so got them too.

All that fettled, I found the steering was off centre following the track rod end, despite counting it off /on so took it to the local Russians for tracking.

Reasonably confident that'll pass MOT now.

Had a think about mine, I know it needs tyres, theyre approaching 2mm, but I am reluctant to drop £240 on decent tyres, and £75 on a full tank of fuel until it has been through MOT. I cant decided if the tyres have wear on the shoulders or if it just general wear. So if it fails on tyres, fine, i know they need doing. It has a bit of vibration on the wheel especially under braking so i suspect it needs disks but it doesn't seem too bad and i suspect it needs wheels balancing too - nobody seems to be able make weights stick to these wheels..

While out doing errands this morning i noticed the vibration got much worse at all speeds, worryingly so, to the point I suspected that a wheel was loose. I stopped and checked and found the FNS brake was stinking hot and would appear to be binding. After finishing the shopping I drove home and found that it was much better but still 70ºC as opposed to the 30ºC on the other side.

I have a bit of a quandary now, clearly I have to do the disks, pads and sort the caliper, hopefully itll be gummed up slides and ill be able to fre them off and at worst replace the slides. But if it is the caliper do i try and clean it and service it or do I change it - apparently they're £60 exchange which doesnt seem bad But. Should I replace both caliperss even if the other is working fine? Obviously ill clean and dress the slides on both sides as i would with any brake service.

The car is approaching end of life.


Any thoughts?
 
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Drago

Drago

Legendary Member
Add up the cost of tyres, brakes, etc, then compare that to the cost of a new vehicle. Its very rarely cost effective to bail out for a new one.

My tyres go in the bin at 3mm as RoSPA recommends. My family's life is worth more than mere money (and my life too!)
 
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