Carlton Ten

[DMCGIN]

Hi folks

I have an old Carlton Ten which has been in my hut for many years but 'thanks' to the lockdown I've been out and about on it and I'm really enjoying it. The bike was given to me more than 25 years ago and I've hardly used it.

Sadly, it's in need of some TLC - especially the tyres, and the wheels which are buckled and wobbly.

I'm considering upgrading the important things on the bike and I'm looking for advice.

How easy would it be to purchase and fit new parts?
Can I upgrade the gears from the current 12, to something higher?
Is it just a case of buying new wheels for the back and front - do the gears come separate?

Has anyone done something similar to a Carlton Ten that I could copy?

Or would I better better advised to just buy a new bike?

I'm new to all this stuff so any help, pointers, recommendations would really be appreciated.

 

[raleighnut]

Hi folks

I have an old Carlton Ten which has been in my hut for many years but 'thanks' to the lockdown I've been out and about on it and I'm really enjoying it. The bike was given to me more than 25 years ago and I've hardly used it.

Sadly, it's in need of some TLC - especially the tyres, and the wheels which are buckled and wobbly.

I'm considering upgrading the important things on the bike and I'm looking for advice.

How easy would it be to purchase and fit new parts?
Can I upgrade the gears from the current 12, to something higher?
Is it just a case of buying new wheels for the back and front - do the gears come separate?

Has anyone done something similar to a Carlton Ten that I could copy?

Or would I better better advised to just buy a new bike?

I'm new to all this stuff so any help, pointers, recommendations would really be appreciated.

View attachment 532514

Well it's already been 'uprated' if it's a 12 speed (the clue is in the name) but yep you can do quite a lot to any bike. What size wheels has it got, 27" I would think but they may be 700c.

 

[biggs682]

@DMCGIN welcome
Best upgrade would be to swap over to alloy rimmed wheels of what ever diameter they are is 27" or 700 along with new tyres the rear block can be unscrewed using correct tools and replaced with a wider range one if that is what you want but might need a longer cage re mechanism .
And then just enjoy

 

[midlife]

Good seller BITD Seems in really good nick but after 20 odd years I'd oil everything that moves and fit new brake cables and outers (stopping is important), check the front and rear derailleurs move OK.. How buckled are the wheels? Might be better to buy some cheap of the same size (27 x 1 1/4 inch) new tyres, new freewheel and new chain.

Left the factory as a ten speed and a lot easier to keep it that way.

Then it will last another 20.

 

[carpenter]

Lots of gears are overrated in my view (although I do live in Suffolk ) - most of the time I only use three of the ones available.

 

[Cycleops]

That will transform into a very good and usable bike with just a bit of time and money spent on it. As Biggsy says a good pair of alloy rimmed wheels, bar tape, new cable inners and outers all round, new tyres and inner tubes and you should be good to go. As above I’d keep the gears as is unless you find you need something lower.
We seem to have had a spate of Carlton revival threads on here recently.

 

[DMCGIN]

Thanks for all the replies everybody, really appreciated.

The bike has 6 cogs at the back - but I sometimes struggle to change onto the '6th' gear. Now @raleighnut has pointed out the obvious to me...maybe the problem is the derailleur isn't designed for 6?

The wheels are K25 27x1.25 and shake a bit - I've only noticed last night that a number of spoke are very slack. I understand tightening spokes isn't an easy task?

I'd be happy to go for new wheels, innertubes and tyres first. And I'll freshen up the bar tape, cables etc. and replace the chain.

Can anyone provide links to what I should buy - did a quick search and there's so much out there

I can think about the gears later - maybe too many gears is overated @carpenter

 

[Cycleops]

Top tip: If you want to make those chips look less obvious find a nail varnish which is a good match and touch in with that. 👍

 

[IanSmithCSE]

Good afternoon,

I'd vote for leave it as close to as is as you can.

If you do decide to go down the more gears route;

I personally find non indexed downtube gear shifters (the ones that you already have) a bit difficult to use when you have 9 or more sprockets on the the rear wheel, although other people don't.

If you find the same then you might end up buying indexed downtube shifters, but it is quite likely that the amount the indexed shifter would move the rear mech would be wrong and the gears won't change or will change badly.

So you will need to by a new rear gear mech.

Then you might find that you didn't realise that most rear mechs will be sold as bolt into the frame rather than onto the metal adapter that you have.

Of course, well if I am going to upgrade to 9, why not 10 or 11 and then the new chain won't work on the current chainrings, it might almost fit, especially if the chainrings are worn but will fall off when changing between them.

Some people love restoring and upgrading older bikes, but they often have a big box of spare parts and know what won't work. If you have to buy everything new, possibly by mail order not realising what you need can be terribly frustrating.

Quite a few years ago I ordered a pair of new wheels, two tyres, two inner tubes, a cassette and new rear mech and the supplier sent me what I ordered. I hadn't realised that I need to order rim tape and the supplier wasn't helpful enough to include any. So everything sat in the box until I got some rim tape and I caught the train.

Lots of gears are overrated in my view (although I do live in Suffolk ) - most of the time I only use three of the ones available.

I used to agree, but then I got Di2 and I can quite happily sit watching TV and pressing the gear change buttons up and down just for the sound of the front mech moving. :-) I suppose that this is only 2 gears, so you may be right.

Bye

Ian

 

[raleighnut]

Good afternoon,

I'd vote for leave it as close to as is as you can.

If you do decide to go down the more gears route;

I personally find non indexed downtube gear shifters (the ones that you already have) a bit difficult to use when you have 9 or more sprockets on the the rear wheel, although other people don't.

If you find the same then you might end up buying indexed downtube shifters, but it is quite likely that the amount the indexed shifter would move the rear mech would be wrong and the gears won't change or will change badly.

So you will need to by a new rear gear mech.

Then you might find that you didn't realise that most rear mechs will be sold as bolt into the frame rather than onto the metal adapter that you have.

Of course, well if I am going to upgrade to 9, why not 10 or 11 and then the new chain won't work on the current chainrings, it might almost fit, especially if the chainrings are worn but will fall off when changing between them.

Some people love restoring and upgrading older bikes, but they often have a big box of spare parts and know what won't work. If you have to buy everything new, possibly by mail order not realising what you need can be terribly frustrating.

Quite a few years ago I ordered a pair of new wheels, two tyres, two inner tubes, a cassette and new rear mech and the supplier sent me what I ordered. I hadn't realised that I need to order rim tape and the supplier wasn't helpful enough to include any. So everything sat in the box until I got some rim tape and I caught the train.


I used to agree, but then I got Di2 and I can quite happily sit watching TV and pressing the gear change buttons up and down just for the sound of the front mech moving. :-) I suppose that this is only 2 gears, so you may be right.

Bye

Ian

My 'upgrade' well repair really of a Carlton Clubman (1967) involved 'new' 105,

Fitted in the late 80s

 

[IanSmithCSE]

Good evening,

Clearly the new mech fit your hanger and hadn't rusted in place, but I also suspect that you knew not to undo the rear wheel, unbolt the hanger and throw it away thinking that it is a part that will automatically be supplied with a new rear mech bought today.

For 600/Ultegra 6207 was the last version before the cable pull was changed to a standard for Shimano indexing around 1984/1986 and didn't the Carlton Ten come with the Sach/Huret/Rebranded rear mech from way back when indexing didn't exist and cable pull didn't matter?

I can't quite see from the picture but that doesn't look like an 9/10/11 speed cassette so if you are running 6/7 speed indexed then there will be more tolerance.

A pic below of my 6207 that didn't work with 8 speed indexed levers. It was tolerable on the flats, but on steep hills or starting off at roundabouts where there is going to be frame flex and cable pull it would usually change gear by itself.

Bye

Ian

 

[raleighnut]

Good evening,

Clearly the new mech fit your hanger and hadn't rusted in place, but I also suspect that you knew not to undo the rear wheel, unbolt the hanger and throw it away thinking that it is a part that will automatically be supplied with a new rear mech bought today.

For 600/Ultegra 6207 was the last version before the cable pull was changed to a standard for Shimano indexing around 1984/1986 and didn't the Carlton Ten come with the Sach/Huret/Rebranded rear mech from way back when indexing didn't exist and cable pull didn't matter?

I can't quite see from the picture but that doesn't look like an 9/10/11 speed cassette so if you are running 6/7 speed indexed then there will be more tolerance.

A pic below of my 6207 that didn't work with 8 speed indexed levers. It was tolerable on the flats, but on steep hills or starting off at roundabouts where there is going to be frame flex and cable pull it would usually change gear by itself.

Bye

Ian

Not sure if you're referencing mine or the 'Ten' but the rear spacing on both will struggle to get over 126mm so really 6 is the limit on the back, nowt stopping you from fitting a triple on the front though.