chain breaking - shimano

[Finn]

Was splitting a 9 speed HG chain the other night ( Long story!) and had it soaked for a day or two. All cleaned and lube and got it ready for a power link. Cos it was clean i saw the "Pin / rivet" where i had broken the head of the chain cutter on the first attemp to split it. Seems like its different to all the other pins and isnt meant to come out., more like a rivet thats bigger than the hole

Is this the case on all chains and something to watch for in future?

 

[rusty bearing]

No, as far as I'm aware only Shimano chains have this pin and this is the one you should remove. Apparently removing any other damages the plates in some way, still, bung the power link in and see if it works or not.

 

[Sieve]

On Shimano chains that I've had I just extracted any pin (and replaced with a new one) at random and that seemed to work. Frankly I don't buy Shimano chains any more because this pin extraction nonesense is a job that I don't need. Simply stick to Sram or KMC and use the clever little linky thing.

 

[ColinJ]

No, as far as I'm aware only Shimano chains have this pin and this is the one you should remove. Apparently removing any other damages the plates in some way, still, bung the power link in and see if it works or not.

Surely that can't be right - how would you be able to shorten a chain? Okay - I just looked it up - you can remove any pin but you are supposed to use a special pin to rejoin the chain.

I use SRAM chains and join them with powerlinks.

 

[Svendo]

On ten speed chains, and I'm pretty sure that 9 speed are the same, the different pin is one used to rejoin the chain. It is bigger to join the chain effectively where an ordinary link has been pushed out of the hole.

According to the shimano literature it should NOT be removed, if the chain subsequently needs breaking it should be done elsewhere, well away from the previous break.

They also recommend that it is the forward pin of an outer plate pair that is pushed out and then rejoined, although if your going to fit a powerlink this is moot.

 

[Svendo]

Here's the Tech doc: http://bike.shimano.com/media/techd...50H-002_en_du_ge_fr_v1_m56577569830686193.pdf

In the general safety information at top left it says:

If it is necessary to adjust the length of the chain due to a change in the number of sprocket teeth, make the cut at some other place than the place where the chain has been joined using a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin. The chain will be damaged if it is cut at a place where it has been joined with a reinforced connecting pin or an end pin.

 

[Cubist]

I have always used SRAM chains, the LBS recommends them. However, I got an SLX chain for Cubester's new bike, and this has the breakaway Shimano link pin. I fitted it exactly as the instructions said, and found that if you do take the trouble to ensure an equal amount of pin shows either side of the link, then you end up with a stiff link. So I extracted the pin and replaced it with..... a SRAM powerlink.

The other day I saw an XT chain at "dead right money" and bought it for my XC bike. I then read the reviews on Bikeradar and there are so many people on there who report the chain snapping, that I have concluded the link pin is the problem. I threw it away and used .... a SRAM powerlink.

A mate of mine's XT chain snapped the other day as well. Again, he had fitted it using the Shimano link, but he has a monstrous riding style, standing for virtually every hill on the MTB, so he's gonna be heavy on any chain, and dentist bills if he keeps on snapping them!

 

[Finn]

Well maybe it was pure 'unluck' i chose that link. I ended up trying an SRAM powerlink which just would not undo in the end and believe me i tried everything. Had to break the powerlink with the tool and chuck it.
Even a KMC link wouldnt fit it as the chain was too wide! Swapped it for my SRAM chain and the kmc went and off easily. Was a lesson learned but i think I'll be sticking with KMC links and watching the width of the chain i buy in futur(e

FTR both chains & links were marked as 9 speed)

 

[e-rider]

No, as far as I'm aware only Shimano chains have this pin and this is the one you should remove. Apparently removing any other damages the plates in some way, still, bung the power link in and see if it works or not.

wrong - you have either made this nonsense up or someone has told you it and it's a case of 'hear say'.

once you have used the 'special' pin it must always stay in there. If you need to break the chain in future you select another normal pin, remove it and replace it with another 'special' pin (you will need to buy them) and so on........

never remove the 'special' joining pins once that have been put in. Shiamno instructions clearly state this procedure.

 

[e-rider]

I've never had trouble with Shimano, SRAM or KMC chains - it's a case of buying the correct size, following the correct fitting/joining procedure for that given chain and not mixing and matching one brand's joining link with another brands' chain.