Chain sets and hydraulic disc brakes on e-bikes?

[Pale Rider]

Bite point (free stroke) adjust was for the higher end groupsets xt/xtr.

Lower models only have reach adjust.

I guess I'm just a higher end type of guy.

 

[bonzobanana]

The gearing I could find for that bike indicates it has these gears
https://doctorscooter.co.uk/product/smlro-mx300-electric-bike-500w-48v

Cassette:	Shimano MF-TZ500, 14-28T, 7 speed
Crankset:	Accura steel 24-34-42T

Using Bikecalc.com with the wheels and tyres listed for the SMLRO MX300 and a selection of higher gears to indicate cadence and speed.

With your current gearing at 15mph your are pedalling at 65rpm.

If you were to buy and fit a 7 speed 11-28t cassette, you cadence would be 50rpm for the same 15mph.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com...weG1hvv8XNh1YJWzqJgaAhmhEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
That would be the cheapest way to lower your cadence. In cycling terms these are quite low cadences, but not unusual if you're a casual infrequent rider


View attachment 691461

It's only a freewheel on the bike so he would have to buy one of those dodgy poor quality freewheels with 11T to get higher gearing there. I think he would be better off with a larger crankset to improve high gearing.

For better braking you can get hybrid hydraulic disc brakes that work with cables but have a hydraulic mechanism. You don't get the full benefit of hydraulic its a half-way house improvement and they work perfectly with standard ebike brake levers designed for mechanical disc brakes and V brakes. Good quality low friction cables and outers can help a lot too. This sort of thing;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003659380818.html

Like others I would say it looks at the cheaper end of ebikes with some fairly basic components. I personally wouldn't invest much in it. You don't put low profile alloy wheels on a trabant.

 

[Pale Rider]

You don't put low profile alloy wheels on a trabant.

Well...

https://www.tuningblog.eu/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/Project-601-Trabant-Tuning-HiFi-Umbau-5.jpg

 

[ericmark]

I was going to put that e-bikes have microswitches on the brakes to cut the power to the motor when applied, my wife's step thru hub motored one did, however just been out & looked at my Cube which has Shimano hydraulic brakes & there's no switches, but it's a crank motor not sure if that makes a difference.

That may explain why some e-bikes do have hydraulic brakes, some other method is used to turn off motor? But all motorcycle brakes must have a switch some where to work the brake light.

By the time you've shelled out on hydros and whatever it takes to resolve the gearing you could have simply bought a bike with hydros and decent gearing. I really wouldn't be inclined to spend any more on it in your position. Probably not what you want to hear, nevertheless...

This is likely true, I got the e-bike in a hurry when the DVLA failed to renew my driving licence in time. I had intended to buy an e-bike, but was looking at mid motor type, here in Wales the hills are a tad steep, so having motor through gears is good.

However the fact it can fold means easier to take on the train, and will fit in most cars without a bike rack being required. So if I list my wants.
1) Folding
2) Mid Motor
3) Hydraulic disc brakes
4) Cadence of no more than 50 at 16 MPH
5) Frame I can get on the bike without laying on the floor and then standing over it and picking it up
6) No more than 24 kg
7) Not with mini wheels
Then looking at well over what I can afford. Wife's bike twice the cost of mine, does most of what I want except fold, so maybe that's what I need? Some of the things on my bike are silly, an ignition key to turn on electrics for example, but one can still pedal it, so does not stop theft, and the battery likely most expensive bit held on by velcro.

But wife's also some daft bits, she has walk assist, keeping fingers on buttons required near impossible. And finding a bike rack which can handle the step through frame not easy. Hers also geared too low, I want motor for hills, so if I can pedal at 17 MPH then motor only comes in on the hills, being able to pedal on slight down hill means it can do the rises with some momentum without motor, but on the long uphill drags the motor helps, but the gearing means I am always under the speed where motor cuts out.

The hydraulic brakes are likely no better than a well adjusted mechanical set up, but the remembering to adjust the disc brakes is the problem, light braking they are great, so once does not realise there is a problem, until heavy braking required, then realise reached end of cam, so does not matter how hard you squeeze the brakes, they will not brake any more, been there once, not funny.

 

[ericmark]

For better braking you can get hybrid hydraulic disc brakes that work with cables but have a hydraulic mechanism.

Now that looks interesting, pity local bike shop don't seem to sell them. I thought I could and wheeled in my e-bike told them what I wanted, and get it done, clearly would cost, but it would be right, with no danger, but seems only way is internet and cross fingers it is safe.

 

[richtea]

But all motorcycle brakes must have a switch some where to work the brake light.

They're on the brake levers, a simple pressure switch that is released when you squeeze (and thus move) the lever.

 

[bonzobanana]

That may explain why some e-bikes do have hydraulic brakes, some other method is used to turn off motor? But all motorcycle brakes must have a switch some where to work the brake light.

This is likely true, I got the e-bike in a hurry when the DVLA failed to renew my driving licence in time. I had intended to buy an e-bike, but was looking at mid motor type, here in Wales the hills are a tad steep, so having motor through gears is good.

However the fact it can fold means easier to take on the train, and will fit in most cars without a bike rack being required. So if I list my wants.
1) Folding
2) Mid Motor
3) Hydraulic disc brakes
4) Cadence of no more than 50 at 16 MPH
5) Frame I can get on the bike without laying on the floor and then standing over it and picking it up
6) No more than 24 kg
7) Not with mini wheels
Then looking at well over what I can afford. Wife's bike twice the cost of mine, does most of what I want except fold, so maybe that's what I need? Some of the things on my bike are silly, an ignition key to turn on electrics for example, but one can still pedal it, so does not stop theft, and the battery likely most expensive bit held on by velcro.

But wife's also some daft bits, she has walk assist, keeping fingers on buttons required near impossible. And finding a bike rack which can handle the step through frame not easy. Hers also geared too low, I want motor for hills, so if I can pedal at 17 MPH then motor only comes in on the hills, being able to pedal on slight down hill means it can do the rises with some momentum without motor, but on the long uphill drags the motor helps, but the gearing means I am always under the speed where motor cuts out.

The hydraulic brakes are likely no better than a well adjusted mechanical set up, but the remembering to adjust the disc brakes is the problem, light braking they are great, so once does not realise there is a problem, until heavy braking required, then realise reached end of cam, so does not matter how hard you squeeze the brakes, they will not brake any more, been there once, not funny.

Those ignition switches are a very good safety feature in my opinion. If you leave the key in its clear to see whether the ebike is powered on or not. If you are walking the bike its better to switch off so no touching of the pedals or throttle will engage the motor by surprise. Also on the extremely rare occurrence where the throttle sticks and you need to switch off the electrics while riding then again that switch is useful. While I agree it doesn't prevent the bike being used/taken it does mean the getaway is slower so you have more chance of catching them or getting a picture of the thief. It can be a visual deterrent as thieves may assume it can't be used without a key. Also I have to say I like the use of a key in comparison to a number pass code entered into a display. If I was lending the bike to someone I'd rather lend them a key than give them the pass code.

 

[ericmark]

On my bike as well as the key switch there is a speedo panel with three buttons, on/off, up assist, and down assist, I will normally turn off assistance i.e. 0 with the down assist button as this leaves the speedo working, and head lamp working, this is as well as being able to unplug battery.

Wife has a key but this is to stop some one removing the battery, that makes sense.