I'm trying to fix up an old bike that had knackered shifters and broken derailleurs into an emergency one speed. I'm waiting on a cassette kit and proper cog from ebay, but in the meantime I've shortened the chain and lined it up with the middle chainring and the corresponding rear cog. Seems to work fine (but I wouldn't trust the old cassette cog at speed or uphill). The frame has horizontal drops, so I've got about an inch and a half of leeway as regards chain tension. How do I know when the tension is right? I've posted a very bad picture if it's any help.
Chain Tension
- Thread starter Cedric
- Start date
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MajorMantra
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Edinburgh
It might be a touch slack but it's hard to tell from the small picture. The right tension is approximately where the chain isn't sagging noticeably when viewed from the side, but it doesn't feel really taut when you grab it. (Not very scientific, I know.)
Here's a more precise approach, though the 5mm thing isn't necessarily gospel:
http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/article/mps/UAN/3620/v/1/sp/?source=weeklyemail&attr=editorial1
Matthew
Here's a more precise approach, though the 5mm thing isn't necessarily gospel:
http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/article/mps/UAN/3620/v/1/sp/?source=weeklyemail&attr=editorial1
Matthew
hubgearfreak
Über Member
Cedric, this bike is a freewheeling one right? then the tension isn't critical, from the look of your photo, i'd say it's plenty tight enough.
MM's link above is very good, if you had a fixed wheel bicycle.
MM's link above is very good, if you had a fixed wheel bicycle.
Tharg2007
Veteran
- Location
- Manchester
hubgearfreak said:Cedric, this bike is a freewheeling one right? then the tension isn't critical, from the look of your photo, i'd say it's plenty tight enough.
MM's link above is very good, if you had a fixed wheel bicycle.
I agree, just needs to be tight enough so the chain cant slip over the cogs
