Changing drop handle bars to butterfly

[oldleggs]

I'm going touring in Europe later this year, the last time l went touring in 2011 for 5 weeks l suffered a lot of pain in my neck and shoulders. l'm thinking of changing the drop bars on my Dawes SG to straight butterfly bars so l'd be in a more upright position, l think this could help.
It was only after a couple of weeks of touring that the pain started.
Any thoughts on whether the changes could help with problem.
Also if l changed the existing stem for a longer one and keep the the drop bars, would that help.
Has anyone an idea of what the cost of changing the bars would be?
Thanks

 

[jjb]

What about flipping the stem over so it is more upright, as a first alteration? Also, maybe some exercises - lie on front and raise head and shoulders off ground for 10 seconds x 10, something like that. Though I suppose that would help more if your soreness had been in the first weeks rather than further in.

 

[Yellow7]

Changing just the bars may not solve your problems, but if you're riding mainly in the drop position then it should. When I first started touring I had neck ache with straight bars and was due to the long handlebar stem (not the actual stem riser), changing it for a shorter one i.e bringing the bars closer to the saddle, solved the problem, reducing the angle between chin & chest.

Later, when I built up my touring bike I chose the euro / butterfly bars, along with an adjustable stem, set at ~45' make a great position when climbing, similar to having bar-ends, along with the two other horizontal positions make a superb choice.

As far as cost's it can vary dependant on choice, Raleigh make good priced, good quality. I'm not sure if the Dawes SG uses the quil style stem riser, but there's an array of parts available to suit all, at prices from low to high.

 

[Titanium]

I very much agree with comments above. I regularly ride a bike with drop bars (as well as occasional use of a bike with flat bars).
Recently I borrowed a tourer with drop bars - the size was the same as my bike, but the handlebar height was about 2 inches lower than my set up. After a ride of about 3 hours, my neck and shoulders felt stiff and painful and 'wrenched'. Not nice at all. So it wasn't the type of bars, it was the height. The horizontal reach distance was roughly the same, so it seemed to just be the height that caused my acute discomfort.
So, chances are that adjusting the height of your drop bars could solve your neck and shoulder pain. And perhaps a shorter reach could also be part of the equation. Good luck.

 

[Davidc]

I've been there. I found raising the (drop) bars about 50mm cured it.

Might not be your problem though, and whereas for most things change and go for a ride works it's more difficult if it only happens after a couple of weeks!

 

[Alberto]

Rising the stem with fork spacers, or even a stem with a greater angle may help. There's also adjustable stems. Regarding changing the bars, new ones go for about 15-18 quid. Swapping brakes, gears etc should be pretty straightforward.

We're about the put that butterfly bar on sale (it's a BBB in silver) as Lucy did not get on well with it. PM if interested (it's pretty much brand new, and we're in London).

 

[andym]

I think there's only one way to tell - try out the different options. Buy secondhand and then sell on if it doesn't work out - or if it does and you decide to get a more expensive version of whatever works.

A secondhand adjustable stem is a good way to work out if a new stem with a different angle would help - if yes, sell it on and buy the stem.

Bear in mind that if you go for butterfly bars you might need a shorter stem because you are reaching further to parts of them.

 

[oldleggs]

Thanks for all the replies, decided to start with a change of stem ordered an adjustable 100mm will see how thing go.
Cheers.....

 

[Nigeyy]

FWIW, I think you are going the right direction -try the small stuff first. One downside to threadless is that unless you get an adjustable stem, you have limited adjustability -either you flip the existing stem or re/move/add spacers on the steerer tube.

This is one of those things where I wonder if the technology that replaced the older technology -i.e. threadless stems vs. quills -is any better. I have to say it really was easier getting a wider range of adjustment with quills back in the day.... ("it were all fields it were, rickets were a real disease, bah 'eck..... and I got half a crown change out of sixpence when I bought half a 'undredweight of ha'penny chews")

Thanks for all the replies, decided to start with a change of stem ordered an adjustable 100mm will see how thing go.
Cheers.....

 

[chrizi]

good info,As far as cost's it can vary dependant on choice, Raleigh make good priced,thanks

 

[Crankarm]

Of course one cyclist's comfortable position is another's torture. You will need to experiment a bit. I get the impression you don't ride regularly as if you did then it would simply be about riding position. Touring is irrelevant really, unless this is the only riding you do. I wouldn't set out on a long tour unless I was 100% comfortable on my bike. As I commute everyday this is already done.

A shorter and adjustable stem is a good way to start. You don't mention whether you have a traditional quill stem or a later A-head arrangment. If the latter then swapping bits and adjustments are far easier imho. You can convert a quill stem to A-head for about £10-15. You will need a new stem of course and spacer rings to go between the top of the headset and stem or above if you want to keep the steerer long should you need to raise the stem in further adjustments.