Chathill to Blyth - part two

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annedonnelly

Girl from the North Country
As I continued south towards Warkworth I came across a field of poppies. It's mandatory to photograph poppies when you see them...
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Warkworth is another favourite destination for tourists and locals wanting an afternoon out. It sits in a meander of the River Coquet and as well as the castle at the hop of the hill there are lovely walks alongside the river. A short walk upstream there is a rowing boat crossing to a Hermitage on the north bank.

Taking a photo of the castle gave me an excuse to stop at the top of the hill for a breather.
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It looks better from the side but as that's the start of a downhill stretch I wasn't going to stop again!

Once past the castle the NCN1 turns left to follow the Coquet along to the estuary at Amble. There's a lovely off-road cycle path here so there is no traffic to worry about as you enjoy the views of the river. There's a weir halfway down this stretch of the river and there's almost always a heron sitting waiting for fish passing by. Sure enough, there was one sitting waiting for breakfast, or perhaps digesting it.

Approaching Amble the route takes you away from the road and towards the marina.
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And then on into the town centre. It was about 9.30 by now and shops were starting to open and there were a few people about. Amble calls itself "Northumberland's Friendlist Port" and it can be a busy little town. There are the typical fish and chip shops you'd expect on the coast. Just off Amble is Coquet Island which is an RSPB reserve. There is no public access to the island but cruises run from Amble to view the birds including the rare Roseate Terns.

Heading south out of Amble you pass some caravan parks and then you are heading into serious nature reserve territory. If think the GNBR bypasses this stretch of the NCN1 and sticks to the road but the path down the coast is perfectly good for riding. First of all you pass the Wildlife Trust reserve at Low Hauxley which has a large lake and an impressive visitor centre. The cafe is famed for its scones.

Before you realise it you are riding through Druridge County Park which includes East Chevington nature reserve and further south Druridge Pools. Most of these reserves are formed from land reclaimed after opencast mining in the area. I was through this way a couple of weeks ago so I knew to look out for the orchids alongside the route.
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It's been a good year for orchids in the area and some have been appearing in new places as a result of the council's policy not to cut verges so often.

The route past Druridge Pools is on an old road which is now used as a car park for the reserve and for access to the beach. But at that time in the morning it's not at all busy. Just a few dog walkers and bird watchers. At the end of this road you rejoin the road at Druridge hamlet - just a handful of houses.

Cycling along here you pass a farm where you can take alpacas for a walk. Mostly they seem to be sitting around in the field grazing. Unlike sheep and cattle they seem to be able to eat while sitting down; perhaps because of their long necks. Apparently if you want to walk them you need to take a pair; they don't go out alone.

At the top of Helmscott Hill there is a tiny cottage.
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Although it looks like a shepherd's hut it is actually a purpose built WWII pill box and is a grade II listed building. It's possible to go inside but there's not much to see and it smells a bit.

You can now coast down the hill and pass another nature reserve on the right hand side of the road. This is Cresswell Pond and it's a favourite turning around point for me if I have a ride out that way. There are often interesting birds to see including Avocets and occasionally a Spoonbill. There was also a Barn Owl living at the nearby farm that was very obliging to photographers and featured a lot on social media for a couple of years. I have seen a Barn Owl along there but I don't know if it was the same one.

Cresswell has a couple of caravan sites and so there is a little shop that sells buckets and spades, fishing nets and ice-cream. However, when I passed recently they were closed so I didn't want to risk it this time. So instead I stopped at the Drift Cafe on the approach to the village. This is named for the drift mine that once operated in the area. The cafe reopened a few years ago and has become very popular. As well as being convenient for passing cyclists and early morning bird watchers it has become a destination for people who just pop out for coffee or a meal. I imagine some of them even enjoy a walk on the beach to work up an appetite or burn off some calories. The cafe seems to have prospered even more during Covid and they're in the process of building another extension. The scones are very good but I really should've asked for a two-person teapot.

This part of the ride is all familiar territory to me - a round trip to Cresswell is about 30 miles, so I can manage that in a few hours. As you pass through Cresswell village you can look to your right to see the Pele Tower. Local people have done a great job of getting funding first of all to carry out an archaeological survey of the site and then more to restore the tower and prepare it for public access. It will open in a couple of weeks time. A friend of mine has been involved in the project and will be working there when it opens so I'm looking forward to visiting.

As you head south along the coast there are a couple of places where you can stop to enjoy the views of the coast. The sea isn't always this calm.
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The road turns inland at a bridge over the river Lyne next to the power station that used to provide the power for the nearby Alcan aluminium smelter. Though aluminium isn't made in the region any longer the rare materials are still shipped in via Blyth to go to the smelter in Scotland. The power station is being converted to a biomass power station.

Once through Lynemouth you join a cycle path towards the site of the old smelter passing an old, traditional windmill. I often stop here to see the jackdaws that nest in the gaps in the brickwork. Then on towards Woodhorn village and the museum. This is a coal mine on the outskirts of Ashington that has been converted into a museum to showcase the region's mining heritage. It also has a large collection of paintings by The Pitman Painters and is the location for Northumberland Archives.

Continuing south the cycle path runs alongside the busy A189 Spine Road. It always amazes me that you're so close to the dual carriageway but the trees and bushes mean that you hardly notice it.
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Shortly after crossing the Wansbeck - where there are sometimes Little Egrets to look at, and often swans - the route leaves the Spine Road and there's a choice of routes. NCN1 turns towards the coast at Cambois (pronounced Cammus) but there's a shorter route by turning inland and looping back over the Spine Road to East Sleekburn. Sometimes it's wise to avoid the coast but as the weather was good I went round that way as usual. Cambois was another mining village and is extremely spread out with large gaps where the pit used to be. The beach at Cambois is popular with dog walkers and people looking for a quiet walk. It doesn't tend to attract holiday makers.
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The southern part of Cambois was the site of Blyth Power Station. When we were kids and had been away from home the site of the power station chimeys was the sign that we were nearly home. The power station was closed in 2001 and the chimeys demolished two years later. The site is now being deleveloped as a clean energy site and permission has just been granted for the building of a large battery factory nearby.

Leaving Cambois you turn left into East Sleekburn. After going downhill to cross the Sleekburn is the stretch of the route that I hate most. It's a climb to a bridge over the Spine Road. I don't think the gradient is that bad but the road surface is poor and I just hate the climb. But once at the top of the hill it's an easy run down into Bedlington Station and it's not far home now. After passing the high school you head down to a cycle path on the side of the River Blyth.

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Once you cross the river the NCN1 takes you east alongside the river on the south side. This passes an industrial estate and takes you round past the harbour in Blyth, through the park and on to the beach. However, I diverted at this point. I've ridden the route often enough and I was more interested in heading home. The alternative takes you up a hairpin bend - another bit of a struggle - and after that I made my way to the Heathery Lonnen which is one of my favourite paths locally. It's an old, closed road through hedges and farmland and there are usually birds, flowers and other wildlife to look at. There's another bridge over the Spine Road and then I joined the old Plessey Wagonway. Originally the wagonway ran all the way from a mine at Plessey Checks to the coast at Blyth to transport coal. This stretch is a tarmac cycle path and shortly past the golf course it becomes Plessey Road which still runs all the way down to the harbour.

I don't stay on Plessey Road for long, turning off to head into the estate where I live. And home.

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I thoroughly enjoyed my day out. I'd been careful to pick a day with a good weather forecast so that helped, but I really should have got around to doing this years ago. And I probably should try to do it again next year.
 

cisamcgu

Legendary Member
Location
Merseyside-ish
Lovely write up - we rode Coasts and Castles a few years ago, and it brought back memories - thank you
 
Location
España
A wonderful write up!
I want to walk a pair of alpacas!^_^

Forgive me, I'm not at all familiar with the geography but how long was your ride? 30 miles?
You clearly are very familiar with the area and your write up would be great inspiration for newbie recreational cyclists - anywhere. I found it very interesting yet relaxing and formed an image of a lovely day out.
 
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