Clark’s rim brake shoes/pads

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C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
Got them from Merlin. They are on now and will be ok for a long time hopefully. Just hope they don’t need further tightening or are mullered that be bad to get them off in the future.

Are you sure it isn't your tool that is out of spec? As others have said, clarkes are decent quality. I would still send them back, it isn't unheard of for reputable shops to end up with knock offs in their stock through no fault of their own.
 

wafter

I like steel bikes and I cannot lie..
Location
Oxford
Someone once posted that any small Allen key with a 'Ball end' on the short arm should be ground down until it is just square, anything over about 5mm is OK but smaller ones should not have them.

Absolutely... ball ends should only be used to spin loose fasteners up where angle of tool entry is less-than-straight. Significant torque should only be applied with the full hex since this has a much greater contact area.

This is why typically you only find the ball end on the long shank of Allen keys; finding it anywhere else suggests the manufacturer has a fundamental lack of understanding...
 

roley poley

Veteran
Location
leeds
for what its worth i have had no problem with clarkes pads and use the red type on the v-brakes i have ..many overpriced other brands on the market that will do the same job
 

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
If you get a package that has or could have been opened, beware that original parts may have been swapped.
Also from a dealer shop. I have had that several times.
They never hesitate to get rid of an old stock item if they see the chance to, and if it's incomplete, no problem just complete it with whatever laying around.

Also, take brand new (not any sign of wear/use) hex keys, insert them, turn without force, to see the play they have: they're all different.
And surprise: for ex IKEA, not exactly a dedicated / specialized shop, they often deliver rather minimalistic hex keys with their do it yourself assembly kits. These are even round - just the ends are hex.
Surprise: I found these consistently as the most snug fit and also least wearing.
 

simongt

Guru
Location
Norwich
I've used Clarks brake blocks for a long time, no problems so far.
Likewise.
Since recommended by an independent LBS a few years ago, it's all I use for our canti / Vee braked bikes.
They can be a bit 'snatchy' until they bed in, but otherwise, derfinitely a good buy from the right supplier. :okay:
 
Someone once posted that any small Allen key with a 'Ball end' on the short arm should be ground down until it is just square, anything over about 5mm is OK but smaller ones should not have them.

For about 10 years now I've been tightening the tiny 3mm calliper brake pad screws with the ball end and loosening with the regular flat hex end. Before that with the flat end I was overtightening and the brake pad screw would often get stuck. The ball end seems to get it nicely into position without over torqueing things.
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
For about 10 years now I've been tightening the tiny 3mm calliper brake pad screws with the ball end and loosening with the regular flat hex end. Before that with the flat end I was overtightening and the brake pad screw would often get stuck. The ball end seems to get it nicely into position without over torqueing things.

Is that the ball end on the long arm of the L and the plain end on the short ?

If so that's what I was suggesting be done to those with balls on both ends, a 3mm bolt will not take much torque.
 

presta

Legendary Member
insert them, turn without force, to see the play they have
The maximum backlash angle on Allen key/hex sockets is quite high, especially on small keys, even when in tolerance, and four out of nine of my keys are below minimum tolerance on top of that.

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