Colonel Winter's Hard Tail

[GrumpyGregry]

OK, so I'm taking a pretty stock Boardman HT Pro, the old white 100mm fork 2010 model, and doing the following:-

• Fitting a Hope stainless BB with GXP converters, cos the drive side bearing on the bike is grindy as heck.
• Fitting a Truvativ Noir carbon crankset with steel 24/36 rings and a Hope Bash and a Stinger Chain Device.
• Fitting an 11 - 34 cassette
• New chain, shortened appropriately

Retaining the standard X0 long cage rear mech and standard X9 triple front mech with existing shifters (front is an X0 grip shift, rear X0 9 speed trigger)

What's gonna catch me out, what's not gonna work.....?

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Delivered thus far today....

PG990 in a box with instructions (which is funny cos the last one I got, 11 - 32, from CRC came in a placky bag oem stylee)
Hope bashguard
Stinger

 

[Cubist]

Are the 990 instructions complicated?

1. Put cassette onto freehub, only splines one way
2. Put chain onto cassette via rear mech
3. Pedal.

Only issue I envisage is getting the right length chainring bolts to match the middle ring and bashguard.

Make sure you check the B limit screw on your rear mech ( I assume SRAM work the same way as Shimano?) as you have to match the layback of the mech to the larger rear cog. This then comes into play when you shorten the chain. I used the big to big wrap plus one link plus the powerlink formula at first, and found that the rear mech cage folded all the way back and put no tension at all into the chain in small-small, so I ended up making it big to big with just the powerlink as overlap. As long as there is some S shape to the chain running through the jockeys on big to big it's ok.

Set the stinger to about 8 o'clock and as close to the bash as you can. Make sure it just about still picks up the chain in small-small.

Have fun, and don't forget pics.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Are the 990 instructions complicated?

1. Put cassette onto freehub, only splines one way
2. Put chain onto cassette via rear mech
3. Pedal.

Only issue I envisage is getting the right length chainring bolts to match the middle ring and bashguard.

Make sure you check the B limit screw on your rear mech ( I assume SRAM work the same way as Shimano?) as you have to match the layback of the mech to the larger rear cog. This then comes into play when you shorten the chain. I used the big to big wrap plus one link plus the powerlink formula at first, and found that the rear mech cage folded all the way back and put no tension at all into the chain in small-small, so I ended up making it big to big with just the powerlink as overlap. As long as there is some S shape to the chain running through the jockeys on big to big it's ok.

Set the stinger to about 8 o'clock and as close to the bash as you can. Make sure it just about still picks up the chain in small-small.

Have fun, and don't forget pics.

the 11-32 990 has a spacer looking thing (oem in plastic bag)
the 11- 34 990 doesn't (sram packages in a box with a bloomingreat opening in it)
there's no spacer on the current cassette. Go figure.

Plan is to convert with existing cassette/rear mech in situ, get everything up and running on the workstand, then swap to the 11-34 so all that needs adjusting at that point, in theory, is the B screw.

Will do blow by blow photo's once everything is here, X7 (or shimano) looks like best bet economic bet for front mech. I'd forgotten how silly X0 prices can be, guess they are competing with XTR. Fair few med cage X0's on fleabay, if we go down that route. Interesting to note that the SRAM 10-speed rear mechs won't work with SRAM 9-speed shifters though. Same 1:1 actuation but a different 1:1 with alterted linkages and angles. Hmmm.

Chainring bolts could be an issue eh? Will cross that bridge on the dry run assembly and will consult the good folk at VeloSolo for a remedy if need be. I've a few spares kicking around I think anyway.

In discussion over a pint of lime and soda at the weekend it was suggested I should do all the work, see if my fork will convert to 120mm, and if so, transfer everything lock stock and barrel adjuster onto a Cotic frame!

 

[Cubist]

Now you're talking! See if it runs nicely with a long cage mech.

Soul runs well on 100s according to many. It'll be a degree or two slacker than the Boardman anyway. Reba team,race all spacered so there's a good chance yours will be. You'll certainly be able to shift your Boardman quickly enough.

 

[VamP]

In discussion over a pint of lime and soda at the weekend it was suggested I should do all the work, see if my fork will convert to 120mm, and if so, transfer everything lock stock and barrel adjuster onto a Cotic frame!

usually takes a pint of something a bit stronger before I start making paradigm shifting decisions like that!

 

[Cubist]

I thought he liked SRAM gripshifts.....

 

[VamP]

Okay, it took me a while, but I see what you did there now

 

[Cubist]

I'm here all week............

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Step 1

Build your chainset

Secondhand truvativ noir cranks off fleabay, along with a pair of "whipped off a new hybrid" steel truvativ chainrings in 24/36 from another fleabayer, and a Hope bashguard from CRC. Steel black standard truvativ chain ring bolts off the web. The mix of carbon and steel makes me chuckle. Carbon steel geddit?

Won't get much else done this week, got visitors over the weekend and I need to make some progress on projectshedbike, which had it's bottom bracket and brakes fitted tonight.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Well, projectshed bike is nearing completion, so I thought I'd take the next step and whip the BB off. The GXP cups laughed in the face of my open ended tool. Adding an extension bar simply saw the tool rip through the the cups. At that point I ran out of profanities, popped the wheels off and dropped the fame off at the lbs where some minutes later, one park tool socket style bb tool and a very long breaker bar they had run out of profanities too but had succeeded in getting the blasted thing off. They refused payment! I forced a tenner on them.

I've ordered the park tool for myself so now work is now suspended pending its arrival.

 

[Motozulu]

Looking forward to the finished article - wish I was more of a wrenchie type myself. I'm ok with whipping the pads out for a quick clean and bleeding the brakes (with written instruction) - but that's me lot!

 

[Cubist]

Well, projectshed bike is nearing completion, so I thought I'd take the next step and whip the BB off. The GXP cups laughed in the face of my open ended tool. Adding an extension bar simply saw the tool rip through the the cups. At that point I ran out of profanities, popped the wheels off and dropped the fame off at the lbs where some minutes later, one park tool socket style bb tool and a very long breaker bar they had run out of profanities too but had succeeded in getting the blasted thing off. They refused payment! I forced a tenner on them.

I've ordered the park tool for myself so now work is now suspended pending its arrival.

Have you ordered some coppaslip or anti-seize to go with it?

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Have you ordered some coppaslip or anti-seize to go with it?

I have a MA-HOOO-SIVE tub of copaslip in the lubricants box. MA-HOOO-SIVE, I tell you.

But the wasters in the factories and lbs's use threadlock or the merest smear of some poxy grease that dries out or goes off or worse still assemble things dry. For my sins the BB was the only thing I didn't take off the bike when I got it. Didn't have a tool at the time.

As for the tool I've got now, well let's just say it ain't going in anywhere near the Hope BB. Buy cheap, buy twice.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Looking forward to the finished article - wish I was more of a wrenchie type myself. I'm ok with whipping the pads out for a quick clean and bleeding the brakes (with written instruction) - but that's me lot!

That's more than a lot can manage and a splendid starting off point.