My compact chainset with 50 / 34 rings is fairly standard for a compact. It is however, a bit of a pain in that you can`t just flip from the large to the small approaching a hill ( your wee legs spin like .. like a mad spinning thing ). I normally have to gear up a couple of sprockets then switch rings. Anyway to get to the point, can you get perhaps a 38 or 40 toothed small ring ? My chainset is an FSA K-Light. Ta for useful replies.
Compact Chainset
- Thread starter jimbut
- Start date
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MartinC
Über Member
- Location
- Cheltenham
Sounds like you don't really want a compact chainset. Normally when you change at the front you'll need to change 2 at the back to step through the gear sequence normally. With a compact this is the price you pay for having lower gears. Sounds like a standard double would suit you better. Depending on the make of the chainset you can probably get a Stronglight ring to fit (try Spa cycles) if you want to change it.
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
I much prefer the gearing of my old Sirrus 30 (seldomly used)/ 42 / 52 and I've got up most hills in the 42, even a 21.5% but that wasn't out of choice my mech stuck 
. My Bianchi has a similar compact (34/50) I've found i've got a similar problem although I shift chain rings that little bit later to avoid the spinning or shiht down then shift up rapidly. When my chain ring wears out eventually and I'm still in OK shape I think I'll go for a standard double, something of the ilk 39/52.
. My Bianchi has a similar compact (34/50) I've found i've got a similar problem although I shift chain rings that little bit later to avoid the spinning or shiht down then shift up rapidly. When my chain ring wears out eventually and I'm still in OK shape I think I'll go for a standard double, something of the ilk 39/52.
Sittingduck
Legendary Member
- Location
- Somewhere flat
Do you have STi / Ergo shifters? If so, why not simply shift to the smaller chainring on the left shifter and at the same time shift the cassette to smaller cogs, say 3 sprockets with the right shifter? No big deal really...
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
That's the tactic I use, that or either waiting till the hill gets steeper and the change down/ spinning thing is less of an issue.Sittingduck said:
Sittingduck
Legendary Member
- Location
- Somewhere flat
I personally shift the chainring first then fire the rear mech 3 clicks after a split second 
RedBike
New Member
- Location
- Beside the road
You can fit a 36 inner ring. Then the jump is exactly the same number of teeth as you get having a 39/53 gear setup and your bottom gear wont have increased too much
RedBike
New Member
- Location
- Beside the road
Yes you can get 38t chainrings with a BCD of 110. i think you can even get 52t chainrings to fit.
gbb
Squire
- Location
- Peterborough
Just go to the LBS Jimbut and get a 110BCD (assuming yours is 110BCD ?) 36/38 or 40T ..i think mine is Stronglite...a 40T works fine.
Cost me £15 from the LBS. although they did have to order it...move the dogfang to suit if you have one, you'll never look back.
No double shifting and it only takes 20 minutes max to change it.
Cost me £15 from the LBS. although they did have to order it...move the dogfang to suit if you have one, you'll never look back.
No double shifting and it only takes 20 minutes max to change it.
gbb
Squire
- Location
- Peterborough
MartinC said:
This is slightly annoying as a buyer...living in an area thats predominantly flat, i knew a compact was useless when i got it (twice)...but i wanted Campag...and they both came with compacts.
Shimano however came with traditional 53/39 chainsets....but i didnt want Shimano on a Bianchi. So, you're stuck with a compact.....but its easy to sort, spend £15 (at the time) and get rid of the 34.
Yes you can operate the changers simultaneously.
Gear changing is based on 'Anticipation', NOT 'Need'.
It will take a few hundred miles to know what gear to select for a gradient and headwind combination.
One flick of the front mech lever and two or even three quick flicks of the rear mech lever.
When lifting the chain, a small amount of 'torque release' will let the change happen smoother, so changing before you need to is a matter of 'reading the road'.
Gear changing is based on 'Anticipation', NOT 'Need'.
It will take a few hundred miles to know what gear to select for a gradient and headwind combination.
One flick of the front mech lever and two or even three quick flicks of the rear mech lever.
When lifting the chain, a small amount of 'torque release' will let the change happen smoother, so changing before you need to is a matter of 'reading the road'.
