Compact Double or Road Triple?

[markc94]

Hi,

Planning on a student (read - scrimping, saving and scavenging) tour across Europe this summer. Plans were originally to do the Pacific coast, but we all had a look at our bank balances and realised that wasn't as possible as it first seemed.

I've been in the process of upgrading my own bike for touring, which is an old Schwinn 434. It currently has a standard 52/39 crankset. Ideally this would be upgraded to either a compact double (50/34) or a road triple (50/39/30).

My question is - is it worth the extra cost in investing in a new front mech and rear derailleur simply so as I can use a triple? Or is there enough scope with a compact double?

Mark

 

[ColinJ]

I am assuming that you have a Shimano groupset?

If you have Campagnolo then you may be able to convert to a triple using your original mechs and shifters. I converted my 53/39 & 13-29 double to a 48/36/28 & 12-30 triple with a minimum of fuss (bodging!).

 

[markc94]

I am assuming that you have a Shimano groupset?

If you have Campagnolo then you may be able to convert to a triple using your original mechs and shifters. I converted my 53/39 & 13-29 double to a 48/36/28 & 12-30 triple with a minimum of fuss (bodging!).

Yeah unfortunately a Shimano, an old 105 groupset. I thought I might be able to make it work but LBS said otherwise.

 

[T4tomo]

Depends how much luggage you are carrying and whether you plan to do any big mountain passes. If either "a lot" and / or "yes" then a triple would be worthwhile unless you get a rear mech that will cope with a x-32 or x-34 cassette and go with that.

 

[markc94]

Depends how much luggage you are carrying and whether you plan to do any big mountain passes. If either "a lot" and / or "yes" then a triple would be worthwhile unless you get a rear mech that will cope with a x-32 or x-34 cassette and go with that.

How would I tell if my rear mech can handle that gear?

 

[TheDoctor]

Look at the model which should be stamped / printed somewhere on the rear mech. Shimanos website will give you all the specs from there.
If it's a oldish 105, chances are it won't work with a 32 / 34 big sprocket.
However, all is not lost as a 9-or-fewer speed MTB rear mech will work fine with your current levers.
A few questions - is this your bike, with 14 speeds? If so, I'd go compact, with something like a 12-32 cassette. Keep the front mech (although front mechs are pretty cheap) and get an MTB rear mech, like an Alivio or some such. If you go triple, you'll need a triple front mech too.

 

[jay clock]

my first tour was on bike with a triple 30-40-50 or similar, even that was tough up long steep hills with medium load. So I would think even a compact would not be enough (for me)

 

[bigjim]

You can sometimes get away with running a Shimano triple with an old double mech. I'm doing just that at the moment. Back the adjusters right off.

 

[clockworksimon]

Before I got a modetn road bike I replaced the drive train of my old Holdsworth with that of an old mountain bike. Swapped 52/42 for a 46/36/26 triple, left the road cassette on but used the long reach rear mech. Found that the old downtube friction shifters worked just fine. This setup worked well and cost nothing. If you don't have old components to use, £50 ish could get you an old 90s MTB to scavenge the bits from and not break the bank. Alternatively use an old rigid MTB with slicks as their make great tourers, especially if going somewhere hilly. You could end up spending a lot if buying new drivetrain components for the current bike.

 

[Aravis]

When I did most of my touring, in my mid to late twenties, I was using a 52-36 chainset and a six-speed 13-32 block. That would be enough to get me and my panniers up the north face of Fleet Moss. I confess that at the time I was very sneery at triples.

The rules for me are different now. I'd guess that as a student you more closely resemble my old self, in which case a compact chainset and a widely spaced cassette would do just fine.

 

[markc94]

Look at the model which should be stamped / printed somewhere on the rear mech. Shimanos website will give you all the specs from there.
If it's a oldish 105, chances are it won't work with a 32 / 34 big sprocket.
However, all is not lost as a 9-or-fewer speed MTB rear mech will work fine with your current levers.
A few questions - is this your bike, with 14 speeds? If so, I'd go compact, with something like a 12-32 cassette. Keep the front mech (although front mechs are pretty cheap) and get an MTB rear mech, like an Alivio or some such. If you go triple, you'll need a triple front mech too.
View attachment 339948

Just checked and it's a RD-1050, meaning it's a 6 speed derailleur? I'm running a 7 speed cassette 11-28, with an indexed 7 speed shifter.

Yes that's my bike! But someone at some stage overhauled the groupset on it, mainly Shimano 105 now. It's 14 speed but has a spacer on the back so could fit an 8 speed cassette I reckon.

So does this mean I would be better off replacing everything? getting a 12-34t cassette (or so) and replacing the front mech and installing a triple chainring?

This was meant to be cheap! aha

 

[TheDoctor]

Well, it depends, which is probably the least helpful answer ever But let's look at what will work.
Your rear mech will work happily on 6 or 7 speed - rear mechs just do what they're told to by the levers. It may or may not have enough sideways travel to do 8 speeds. But your levers won't do 8 speed - so I'd suggest sticking with 7 speed. 7 speed cassettes are dirt cheap - like £10 or less.
Now, the chances of the 105 rear mech doing a 32 tooth sprocket are slim - that's why I suggested an MTB rear mech. Anything should do, cheaper the better. This Tourney off Ebay would work, frinstance, at under £8.
Having replaced the cassette, you'll need a new chain (Wilkos, £5) and (almost certainly) new chainrings. You may well find it's cheaper to get a whole new chainset and have done with it - like this one for £25 from SJS, but there's probably cheaper ones. If a triple is the same price or cheaper than a compact, then you might think it worthwhile. But a triple will need a new front mech, whereas a compact won't - it'll be fine with the one you have.
What have we got to?
Cassette £9. Chain £5. Rear mech £8. Chainset £25. That's a whole new lower-geared transmission for £47.
Of course, you could just use the bike as is, but you might struggle in mountains.
Then again, you might not. You'll be fitter after riding to the Alps, certainly.

 

[bigjim]

Maybe he could do what most of us did in the 60s. Too steep? Get off and push. Is he in a hurry?

 

[markc94]

Well, it depends, which is probably the least helpful answer ever But let's look at what will work.
Your rear mech will work happily on 6 or 7 speed - rear mechs just do what they're told to by the levers. It may or may not have enough sideways travel to do 8 speeds. But your levers won't do 8 speed - so I'd suggest sticking with 7 speed. 7 speed cassettes are dirt cheap - like £10 or less.
Now, the chances of the 105 rear mech doing a 32 tooth sprocket are slim - that's why I suggested an MTB rear mech. Anything should do, cheaper the better. This Tourney off Ebay would work, frinstance, at under £8.
Having replaced the cassette, you'll need a new chain (Wilkos, £5) and (almost certainly) new chainrings. You may well find it's cheaper to get a whole new chainset and have done with it - like this one for £25 from SJS, but there's probably cheaper ones. If a triple is the same price or cheaper than a compact, then you might think it worthwhile. But a triple will need a new front mech, whereas a compact won't - it'll be fine with the one you have.
What have we got to?
Cassette £9. Chain £5. Rear mech £8. Chainset £25. That's a whole new lower-geared transmission for £47.
Of course, you could just use the bike as is, but you might struggle in mountains.
Then again, you might not. You'll be fitter after riding to the Alps, certainly.

Was thinking that maybe the shifter would work in friction mode on an 8 speed?

But that's brilliant thank you!

 

[TheDoctor]

Was thinking that maybe the shifter would work in friction mode on an 8 speed?

But that's brilliant thank you!