Correct fore and aft saddle position?

[simmi]

I have recently had a bike fit and the most significant change was to move my saddle back a good distance.
I now feel the bike fits me better and I can ride on the drops for longer but I'm not convinced that my saddle is now in the right position.
with the saddle where it is now I can climb better but don't think I feel as powerful on the flatter section and my legs are aching a little more after rides.
I was thinking of moving my saddle back to where it was before and buying a longer stem to make up the difference.
Can anyone explain the correct way in layman's terms to position the saddle (fore and aft) in relation to crank position?
I have looked into it a bit and noticed that the term "nose back" is used which I would think would be highly inaccurate as saddles are far from standard.
Is there a definitive position or is it a personal thing?
I would think you saddle position would be your standard/datum starting point and then everything else would then be taken from there.

 

[cyberknight]

http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html
Is a good starting point.

 

[deptfordmarmoset]

I have recently had a bike fit and the most significant change was to move my saddle back a good distance.
I now feel the bike fits me better and I can ride on the drops for longer but I'm not convinced that my saddle is now in the right position.
with the saddle where it is now I can climb better but don't think I feel as powerful on the flatter section and my legs are aching a little more after rides.
I was thinking of moving my saddle back to where it was before and buying a longer stem to make up the difference.
Can anyone explain the correct way in layman's terms to position the saddle (fore and aft) in relation to crank position?
I have looked into it a bit and noticed that the term "nose back" is used which I would think would be highly inaccurate as saddles are far from standard.
Is there a definitive position or is it a personal thing?
I would think you saddle position would be your standard/datum starting point and then everything else would then be taken from there.

I'd give it a little more time to get your muscles used to working slightly differently before any fine tuning.

 

[yello]

I don't feel you should comprise your saddle position - it's perhaps the single most important one on the bike. You can adjust reach (stem length) accordingly, bit not vice-versa. So I'd say that if that's what the bike fitter has recommended then I'd give yourself a little more time to adapt to it.

The fitter could of course be wrong.... or misunderstood your requirements... or you simply might prefer a 'non-advised' position! Your call tbh.

 

[simmi]

I'd give it a little more time to get your muscles used to working slightly differently before any fine tuning.

I know what you are saying I have given it about 3 weeks and 300 miles and it is getting better but still feel position is not quite right for getting the power down. Just wanted to check my position relative to the crank is OK.

http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html
Is a good starting point.

Thanks cyberknight will try the suggested method and see how close to it I am, I have a 175mm crank which I guess will make it an extra 5mm worse (splitting hairs I know but as an ex engineer I like to get things right)

 

[simmi]

I don't feel you should comprise your saddle position - it's perhaps the single most important one on the bike. You can adjust reach (stem length) accordingly, bit not vice-versa. So I'd say that if that's what the bike fitter has recommended then I'd give yourself a little more time to adapt to it.

The fitter could of course be wrong.... or misunderstood your requirements... or you simply might prefer a 'non-advised' position! Your call tbh.

I wholly agree with you, so wanted to make sure my saddle position was not compromised in order to fit the rest of the bike correctly.
I am thinking that I will find that I do in fact need to alter the saddle back forward and then compensate for this with a longer stem.
I also think that the LBS rightly or wrongly gave me the best fit they could on the day without the time and expense of extra parts.

 

[PK99]

I wholly agree with you, so wanted to make sure my saddle position was not compromised in order to fit the rest of the bike correctly.
I am thinking that I will find that I do in fact need to alter the saddle back forward and then compensate for this with a longer stem.
I also think that the LBS rightly or wrongly gave me the best fit they could on the day without the time and expense of extra parts.

The optimum fore and aft seat positioning and seat height is down to bio-mechanics and the efficiency of energy transfer - there is an optimum position (though some minor differences in how that is determined by various methodologies) the front end options on stem length, height etc are much more a case of personal preference and rider flexibility. Get the seat right then adjust the front end

 

[Rob3rt]

How did they fit you? IMO sitting on the bike and having a few adjustments made is not the best way to go about it. You will shuffle about when riding before settling in, therefore what might be best when you 1st plonk yourself on the bike, ends up not being best after you have settled in.

 

[yello]

I also think that the LBS rightly or wrongly gave me the best fit they could on the day without the time and expense of extra parts.

That's entirely likely. They did the best they could with what they had.

FWIW, my saddle is set further back than standard advice (e.g. KOPS) would recommend... because I like it like that!

 

[simmi]

How did they fit you? IMO sitting on the bike and having a few adjustments made is not the best way to go about it. You will shuffle about when riding before settling in, therefore what might be best when you 1st plonk yourself on the bike, ends up not being best after you have settled in.

The fit was for me not the bike, many measurements were taken, height, inseam, torso length, arm length, shoulder width, foot size and a few more I have forgotten I would think.
The bike was then adjust to get as close as possible to the ideal position for me, I also had an option as to the setup race, sportif or Audax I think.
I am a bit of an ape with short legs and a long body which was why I had the saddle moved back I think.

 

[simmi]

Just checked my saddle position using the Jim Langley method and as far as I can tell my knee is about 15mm back from ideal, this doesn't sound like much to me is this enough to make any difference?

 

[User6179]

The fit was for me not the bike, many measurements were taken, height, inseam, torso length, arm length, shoulder width, foot size and a few more I have forgotten I would think.
The bike was then adjust to get as close as possible to the ideal position for me, I also had an option as to the setup race, sportif or Audax I think.
I am a bit of an ape with short legs and a long body which was why I had the saddle moved back I think.

I,ve got short legs and long body and my saddle has to go forward on all my bikes as I cant get the power down with the saddle in a neutral or back position.

I think I read somewhere when the pedals are horizontal your forward knee should line up with pedal spindle.

 

[tyred]

I don't believe knee over pedal spindle has any scientific basis (there's an article that explains why at great length on the Sheldon Brown site). It depends on the length of your femur and also your intended use for the bike. A time trialist will sit further forward than a touring cyclist.

If it's not causing any pain, it's probably fine imo.

 

[fossyant]

Knee over pedal axel is one of the main set up guidelines, but like everything can vary depending upon your body, but not too far out.

 

[P.H]

First thing I'd do is talk to whoever did the fitting. I know when I paid for one I got several follow up bits of advice. I certainly wouldn't adjust one setting without understanding the impact on the others.