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Corrosion free groupo?

Discussion in 'Bicycle Mechanics and Repairs' started by ejls2, 25 Mar 2008.

  1. ejls2

    ejls2 Well-Known Member

    Hi all,

    I was wondering how high up the respective shimano/campag groupset rankings do you have to go before the various components stop using non-stainless steel?

    I bought a new bike before christmas and in spite of a borderline fanatical cleaning regime, one or two bits are beginning to show signs of rust. In particular, the bolts which hold on the veloce brakes and a couple of nuts on the back of the brakes themselves and the rear mech. I never have a problem with the chain, cassette etc, probably because I remember that they need lots of cleaning.

    If you were trying to build up a good bike for winter use, what level of components would you have to use to prevent corrosion of the non-drivechain components?

    Is there a reason why these parts are made of 'normal' steel? I presume brake bolts etc have to be steel rather than alu or titanium for strength but I'd have thought they could be stainless?

    Cheers in advance for any help,

    Ed
     
  2. simoncc

    simoncc New Member

    I've never found rust to be a problem with any components.
     
  3. andygates

    andygates New Member

    You're just not using enough greeze, Ed. The idea that you need high-end components for a decent winter bike is the kind of craziness I'd expect from triathletes ;)
     
  4. fossyant

    fossyant Ride It Like You Stole It!

    Location:
    South Manchester
    In winter and wet rides, just give the parts/bolts etc, a squirt with a light weight lube (not the chain sort) - that's what stops the rust on my commuter (very old Deore LX equipped MTB)
     
  5. ejls2

    ejls2 Well-Known Member

    Many thanks for your helpful comments.

    Damn, you saw through my cunning plan to use a chorus groupo (and tri bars of course!) on my winter bike :biggrin: And you know we triathletes abhor grease! It's not very aero and it weighs a huge amount! Seriously, I use lots of lube and grease but in the weather I've been riding in and the level of salt on the roads some of these parts are looking very much the worse for wear!

    That's what I do :biggrin: I dry the bike downand then apply TF2 by spray which I then wipe off some of the excess. What lube do you use?

    I don't have problems anywhere except on the bolts which hold the brakes to the fork/stays which always attract the lion's share of water etc and these two nuts on the back of the brakes themselves. Chain, cables, cassette etc are all fine.

    To put this into perspective this bike has done just under 4,000 km since the beginning of the year so I'm not grumbling, it just seems annoying that while the rest of the bike is pristine, there are a few bits which let it down.
     
  6. fossyant

    fossyant Ride It Like You Stole It!

    Location:
    South Manchester
    My stuff is pretty old but all looked after, like it sounds yours is as well though.... Quick question - are you using mud guards in the winter ! - Riding on salty roads without guards will create excessive opportunity for surface corrosion..... Whilst guards are horribly ugly, they save your components. The rust won't get worse - just give it a squirt.

    I'm not using any special lube on the non moving bits, but leave a bit of grease, like Finish Line waterproof stuff in the bolt holes, - might be worth a quick squirt of chain lube in the bolt holes -stays on better.
     
  7. andygates

    andygates New Member

    S'okay, my tri bike looks a fright from all those frenzied transitions! A little surface rust doesn't matter a jot!

    (mind you, I agree, it does look cheap - time for a full carbon/ti upgrade?)
     
  8. ejls2

    ejls2 Well-Known Member

    Yup, this bike has full SKS chromoplasic guards (I had to shout down the inner triathlete in me!) and they do a fantastic job of keeping the crud away from the brakes, me etc but some is pbviously still getting through ;)

    I 've put some finish line grease in the bolt holes but again, I think the water is washing bits of it out. I'll try and press it in a bit firmer.

    Cheers once again for the advice :biggrin:

    :biggrin:

    Even on my carbon race bike (centaur,veloce groupo) there are some bits which always attract the rust (the same brake bolts for example). But you're sort of asking the same question that I was really, if you do go for , say, a full record/ti groupo are there still going to be bits of non-stainless steel knocking around to look manky and detract from the look?
     
  9. Landslide

    Landslide Rare Migrant

    Location:
    Called to the bar
    (Sweeping generalisation alert, but) in my experience brake bolts seem to be chrome plated (or a similar process) so they look nice and shiny. Attacking these bolts with allen keys damages the plating, hence the corrosion issue.

    I don't think I've come across stock brake bolts that are immune from this issue, but maybe you could get aftermarket ones? Good quality titanium bolts should be strong enough, or you could buy a new set of steel bolts every season?
     
  10. ejls2

    ejls2 Well-Known Member

    Hi,

    Yes, that's certainly what mine seem to be. I didn't install the brakes but I think even if you're very careful you can scratch the finish off.

    I'm looking into Ti bolts at the mo, like I said above, I'm a bit skeptical about them shearing but I may well give them a go. I was just surprised that fairly pricey brakes don't come with something better as standard.

    I've e-mailed the guys at Tibolts.co.uk and I will drop campag a line when I manage to find a contact e-mail address!

    Ed
     
  11. fossyant

    fossyant Ride It Like You Stole It!

    Location:
    South Manchester
    The other point is...... is the quality of the steel as good as it was..... I've got old Dura Ace / Ultegra (and pre 600) without these issues - some slight rust on the after market nearly new brake pad bolts on the commuter on the MTB, and some on the chain ring bolts - but it's within the bolt contact points...

    I wouldn't like to think Shimano or Campag have lowered standards over the years, but pushing steel prices ???
     
  12. llllllll

    llllllll New Member

    I have this problem. Personally I only do maintaince when it's absolutely needed, can't be doing with polishing everthing everytime I get off the bike. So most of the bolts on my commuter are covered in rust/dirt. Over the years I have changed one or two over to stainless, a quick wipe with a rag and they're like new. I did have one shear on me but that was when I over tightened it, no problems out on the road. I've changed almost all the bolts on my good bike to stainless, though I'm considering Ti to save a bit of wieght, trouble is the cost soon mounts up.
     
  13. simoncc

    simoncc New Member

     
  14. Jacomus-rides-Gen

    Jacomus-rides-Gen New Member

    Location:
    Guildford / London
    If my bike has got wet while I'm out, as soon as I get back I liberally run a hose over her - no pressure mind, not even a thumb over the end of the hosepipe, but it helps to wash off some of the salt and muck that gets sprayed up. Then once she is dry I give a good spraying of GT85 and re-lube the chain.
     
  15. ejls2

    ejls2 Well-Known Member

    Thanks Jacomus :smile: I need to get our hose rigged up so I can do the same.

    Must admit, when I first read your post I thought you said you run a horse over it! Would be a pretty intersting method of preventing corrosion!