Hi. Grateful for help with the following queries regarding the bottom bracket on my Apollo Guru. Note that this is my first attempt at a bottom bearing replacement. Please see the second photo (components) and note that one of the two bearing races is not shown, as it had disintegrated. Note also that the component top left (above the bearing) is a plastic insert and is not threaded. My first question is: What replacement part(s) do I need to order? Do I just need two races? Or do I need a spindle too? Or is there a conversion I should make to a cartridge bearing? I was expecting a cartridge to come out. My second question regards the picture of the frame taken from the right hand side with the frame upturned. As can be seen there is an insert which I have not been able to remove (noting it should be a reverse thread). Clearly I did not need to remove it in order to remove the bearing. Can I assume that I will Also be able to reassemble the bike without needing to remove the insert? Very many thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Crank bearing -Apollo Guru
- Thread starter Trax
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Hi. Grateful for help with the following queries regarding the bottom bracket on my Apollo Guru. Note that this is my first attempt at a bottom bearing replacement. Please see the second photo (components) and note that one of the two bearing races is not shown, as it had disintegrated. Note also that the component top left (above the bearing) is a plastic insert and is not threaded. My first question is: What replacement part(s) do I need to order? Do I just need two races? Or do I need a spindle too? Or is there a conversion I should make to a cartridge bearing? I was expecting a cartridge to come out. My second question regards the picture of the frame taken from the right hand side with the frame upturned. As can be seen there is an insert which I have not been able to remove (noting it should be a reverse thread). Clearly I did not need to remove it in order to remove the bearing. Can I assume that I will Also be able to reassemble the bike without needing to remove the insert? Very many thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
If you care about authenticity it's cheap to get ?9 new bearings (best not in a cage) from your LBS; clean everything and generous with the grease. Otherwise replace this with a 'cartridge' BB: Shimano's perfectly economic best is a UN-300 . Many other makes are available (get one with metal both ends).
Measure the spindle (eg 122.5mm) and also the width of the BB shell (assume 68mm).
Edit: To replace with cartridge BB you will have to remove the cup (your "insert") showing still screwed into the BB shell. This one is always in tighter and just servicing a the conventional cup, bearings and cone set up doesn't require its removal so it'll likely have never moved.
But it WILL move. I recall removing one like this, with son's help (standing on side of spanner/cup with frame on its side), using 'shock action': a coal hammer on the end of a 15" spanner. It took 'ages'. Others will have better ways (including a piece of scaffolding to increase the torque).
Your LBS would have this out in a jiffy but you'd be depriving yourself of an hour of T2 fun, and the sense of achievement and self-sufficiency (and in my case a little more filial/paternal bonding).
Last edited:
Big John
Guru
^^^ What Ajax said. No point messing about with an old school BB unless you're hell bent on retaining the originality of the bike. Cartridge BB = fit and forget. Just make sure you get one with the same axle length. Your old one may have the size marked on it. Get square taper, same as you already have. They come in all lengths so choose carefully. If it's Apollo it'll be 68mm shell width. If unsure, and you're wary of ordering online, you can take your old 'bits' into your LBS and they'll sort you out with a replacement cartridge BB. Bear in mind the drive side is left hand thread and non-drive is normal thread. However, you'll need the proper tool to fit a cartridge BB. Take a gander at YouTube for tips on how to fit it. Clean the threads out and grease before fitting new one.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/lifeline-bottom-bracket-tool-octalink-square
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/lifeline-bottom-bracket-tool-octalink-square
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
My experience with Apollo bikes, Hanford's cheapest budget range, is that many components are made of cheese. Once replaced with a proper BB should go on to give many years of service unless of course some other cheesy components fails. To that end I should check the wheel and headset bearings, likely to be poor quality with little grease.
Chris S
Legendary Member
- Location
- Birmingham
All uphill
Still rolling along
- Location
- Somerset
There are some good videos on YouTube showing ways of removing the fixed cup. RJ the Bike Guy is a good place to look.
I use the big and nut bolt with two washers method; together with a big wrench and extension bar.
I use the big and nut bolt with two washers method; together with a big wrench and extension bar.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
I'd fit a couple of caged bearings as long as the track on the shaft is not pitted or scored, cost a couple of quid for a pair.
1 tip, use plenty of grease, you can't put too much on there.
1 tip, use plenty of grease, you can't put too much on there.
bonzobanana
Guru
Apollo is actually their one step up brand. They used to do 'Trax' bikes I think but now there entry level brand appears to be 'Indi' and for entry level ebikes it is 'Assist'. 'Apollo' is in between these and 'Carrera'. I think the basic Apollo bikes without suspension are pretty decent as day to day transport but any Apollo with suspension is rubbish in my opinion as the suspension is typically non-adjustable and throwaway. However to their credit Halfords are still using aluminium frames with removable gear hangers where as Decathlon now have a huge amount of bikes with integrated gear hangers and once bent a few times the frame is basically a throwaway item. I've got an old Apollo frame in the shed and its very decent construction. The Apollo Valier looks a decent entry level bike which is upgradeable to something better over time, perhaps a Suntour fork and a freehub based rear wheel and does have a removable gear hanger so if you do have an accident and damage the rear derailleur you don't have to write off the frame. Also it should be pointed out many of the bikes Halford's sends to Africa and they have sent 10s of thousands have been basic high tensile steel Apollo bikes which can withstand the horrific roads of Africa and take a lot of abuse and be easy to repair. The bike on the left I think is Apollo. A cup and cone type bottom bracket is easy to service and not a throwaway item like a cartridge bottom bracket. Fresh bearings and grease is a cheap fix too. However I'm pretty sure no Apollo bikes with low end suspension will ever be sent to Africa.
Thank you for the massively helpful advice. Given that the spindle is 120mm, should I go for the 118mm or the 122.5 mm for the replacement BB (there is no 120mm option)? Very many thanks.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
If you can, reinsert (but not secure) the spindle (with that caged bearing there obv) and then refix the chainset on. Aim is to discover how much gap/tolerance there is between the chainring closest to interfering with the chainstay. If less than 2mm, go for 122.5. A 118mm spindle will shift the chainline/set 1mm further in and that may be too close.
The limit which needs to be recognised the 'other way' ie outwards is the ability of the derailleur to shift/reach an extra 1.25mm out to get the chain onto the outer ring and for its cage to be far enough across so that in large small (highest gear) the cage is not fouling the chain. This will be v diff to test now. You may know that this was a struggle before with the upper limit screw screwed out.
Slight alteration in chain line by going from 120 to 118 or 122.5 is negligible (other than the issues ^^).
The limit which needs to be recognised the 'other way' ie outwards is the ability of the derailleur to shift/reach an extra 1.25mm out to get the chain onto the outer ring and for its cage to be far enough across so that in large small (highest gear) the cage is not fouling the chain. This will be v diff to test now. You may know that this was a struggle before with the upper limit screw screwed out.
Slight alteration in chain line by going from 120 to 118 or 122.5 is negligible (other than the issues ^^).
Dogtrousers
Kilometre nibbler
I'm with @raleighnut on this. Just clean and grease it and put it back together. Put in some new balls (in a new cage maybe).
Unless there's some pressing reason that I've missed, life's to short for messing around with removing fixed cups and worrying about what replacement parts you need. If you're not careful your BB will end up being worth more than the rest of your bike.
As @bonzobanana says:
Unless there's some pressing reason that I've missed, life's to short for messing around with removing fixed cups and worrying about what replacement parts you need. If you're not careful your BB will end up being worth more than the rest of your bike.
As @bonzobanana says:
Last edited:
Thanks. The chain occasionally comes off and over the largest ring when cycling. This would indicate that there is some spare travel available. It follows that the 122.5 might be the lower risk option. Is that logical? Regards.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Sounds both logical and good. If going for the cartridge BB (metal both ends (not LH plastic) <£20, should last 5000+km) and you'll need the 20 spline tool.
Ok. I'll order the un300 as you suggested earlier 122.5 & 68. Thanks again for all of your help.
