Crank-chainstay fouling

[Sleeper]

On an alloy frame (that will be replaced at some point) if you had the choice to grind down the tips of the crank arms (carbon) or make an impression into the chainstays to gain running clearance, what would you choose? Thanks!

 

[PaulSecteur]

Without knowing the full details, I would be very inclined to get cranks that fit properly. But that would be boring.

 

[Sleeper]

True, but then road cranks on an MTB frame is never going to be easy! 68mm BB shell, spaced properly, but the extra clearance the frame has around the rear wheel area is just catching me out. Will post a pic

 

[Sleeper]

http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/susiesromeo/5b9c59be.jpg
http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/susiesromeo/68e9e575.jpg

 

[downfader]

Grinding either down I would imagine could compromise structural integrity...? Esp. on the frame.

Makes you wonder if you could get spacers to push them out a few mm? A good shop should be able to advse better

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

On an alloy frame (that will be replaced at some point) if you had the choice to grind down the tips of the crank arms (carbon) or make an impression into the chainstays to gain running clearance, what would you choose?

Blimey, don't you like your teeth?

As you probably know, road cranks are designed to operate with a smaller (usually 45mm) chainline than mtb cranks/bb/front mech, usually by around 5mm in fact. So if I were to equip a mtb frame with road cranks and assuming they are square tapered I would not use the designated road bb but one that delivers another 5mm* of chainline, which incidentally is usually not one that has a 5mm or 10mm longer spindle, because they are usually asymmetric.

* assuming the road cranks do not have tiny q factor, otherwise it might have to be a bit more to stop fouling...

 

[Sleeper]

The BB is FSA's megaexo, spaced as much as I can go without risking the LH splines...